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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

2986 messages,  Last post on May 15, 2013 at 6:47 AM

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What is this discussion about? Ford Ranger, Truck

Messages Page 217 of 300

#2153 of 2986 Instrument lights by wanni01

May 03, 2006 (8:02 pm)

I am sorry I don't really have a Ford Ranger. I have just purchased a 1999 Mazda B4000 with 100,000mi and I was told that it is the exact same truck as a Ranger. I was wondering if anyone of you has ever replaced the instrument lights. I couldn't reach from under to get to the bulbs. It looks like I will have to take the whole cluster out. Are there any tricks in removing the instrument cluster? Please help.

#2154 of 2986 Air Hissing'Metallic knock by brently1

May 06, 2006 (1:35 pm)

Hello I have a 2000 4.0L V6. I have been hearing a noise that sounds like a can of pop opening when I shut the engine off. If I listen closely I also hearing a boiling gurgle noise....anyone know what this might be? I have checked alot of my vacuum lines with little success. I also seem to have a metalic knocking noise coming from the engine. i only have 72,000km original on the engine. anyways I hope someone can help me out.
 
Brent

#2155 of 2986 Re: '95 Ranger having starting problems [rangerboy] by junktruck

May 08, 2006 (10:05 am)

Replying to: rangerboy (Apr 28, 2006 1:36 pm)
Rangerboy,
I think I'm a little closer to solving our problem. I started thinking it might be caused by the distributor or ignition coil--I found out I have a distributorless ignitions system(I think yours does as well?) so I replaced the coil--It didn't fix it; but, the wiring harness that goes into the side of the coil pack maybe the problem... I'm thinking the problem is electrical because when I tested to see if the coil was bad, or had become sesitive to water (dew, rain, humidity, etc.) I sprayed water in the engine compartment as a test(shielding the battery and distribution box)... As soon as I did this it had the same problems starting each time I wet the engine (I then dried it and reperformed the test). As I began to think out the problem, the starter works and gets power, but the coil pack doesn't always have power; so, I think the wiring between the two has shorted out with age. Later I am going to try wiggling the wires with the engine running to see if it has a short and dies. What do you think?

#2156 of 2986 check engine light by 4banger4

May 08, 2006 (6:53 pm)

Hi I am a new ranger owner 99 2.5 5speed with 77k the check engine light came on is there a way to clear codes without scan tool can I use a obdII scanner from pep boys to read and clear codes or is this basicaly a dealer only thing also any common problems that turn light on any help is geat just got it last week from a used car dealer I know but I was in a bind

#2157 of 2986 Re: 93 ford ranger pinging and white smoke [adrian5366] by bolivar

May 08, 2006 (10:16 pm)

Replying to: adrian5366 (May 01, 2006 1:33 pm)
4Liter motors usually do not ping. 3Liter motors do, and little can be done about it.
 
4L pinging is caused many times by loose lower intake manifold bolts. Tightem then up. Many times the motor will also be using oil. Tightening bolts may reduce oil usage.
 
Clean the MAF sensor (or replace it) might also help.
 
White smoke and vanishing transmission fluid indicated a vacuum modulator valve is bad - a hole in the diaphram and tranny fluid is being pulled up the vacuum hose and burned in the engine. The valve is on the transmission, right side, up high. One bolt usually holds it on, with a rubber and steel vacuum line going to it.

#2158 of 2986 Re: check engine light [4banger4] by bolivar

May 08, 2006 (10:19 pm)

Replying to: 4banger4 (May 08, 2006 6:53 pm)
Removing the battery negative cable for a couple minutes will probably reset the error code.
 
Of course, if there is a problem, driving the vehicle a short distance usually re-sets the 'check engine' light.
 
Get it fixed.
 
Autozone, etc can scan ODBII.

#2159 of 2986 Re: Air Hissing'Metallic knock [brently1] by bolivar

May 08, 2006 (10:32 pm)

Replying to: brently1 (May 06, 2006 1:35 pm)
Are you running the air conditioner? If so, immediately after shutting the motor down, the AC system will balance the pressure across the entire system. When this is happening, with high pressure moving to lower pressure, you will be able to hear hiss and gurgles for about a minute or less.
 
If you have air in the cooling system, this can also cause knocks, gurgles, hisses, etc. If your radiator cap is functioning correctly, this air should be expelled and water pulled back into the motor to replace the air. When I drained, flushed, refilled antifreeze in my 94 4L, it never had any problem purging air from the system. I just checked the level of antifeeze in the overflow bottle after a few days and topped it off if needed. If you do not have antifreeze in the overflow, then you probably have air in the radiator and rest of the system.
 
4L motors of about your year are known for a 'marbles in tin can' noise while at idle. I've read lots of complaints about this, with never hearing a definitive cause of the noise. It seems like lots of them did this, many with only a very few miles on them, and Ford did nothing about it. And I've not known of many real failures from the noise.
 
Of course, you might have a rod bearing knocking and are about to need a motor rebuild.....

#2160 of 2986 Ranger 2000 6 cyl battery goes dead by alanbn

May 09, 2006 (5:53 am)

Hi,
 
Just bougth a used Ranger year 2000. I thought the battery was weak because it would go dead on me if I left it for more than a day or 2. I replaced the battery and it is doing the same thing. Something seems to be draining the battery...

#2161 of 2986 00' Ranger check engine light... DPFE sensor code by bsmart1

May 09, 2006 (7:55 pm)

I read on this site about others getting this DPFE error code on their Rangers. My CHECK ENGINE lite came on so I took it to A Z and Auto Zone read the codes for me and said the DPFE sensor was the problem. This is the 3.0L V6 Flexfuel engine.
I removed the sensor, and blew the lines out going back to the EGR main tube. They were clear. I removed the ground cable from the battery to reset the CPU. I sprayed carb cleaner into the inlet tubes of the sensor and let it soak a few minutes while shaking it around a bit. Then I drained the fluid out of the sensor and used a small air compressor to blow the chambers dry. I re-installed the sensor, connected the tubes and started the truck up for a test run. NO MORE CHECK ENGINE LITE!! It looks like this issue is resolved for now.

#2162 of 2986 Re: check engine light [4banger4] by jneal

May 09, 2006 (9:47 pm)

Replying to: 4banger4 (May 08, 2006 6:53 pm)
Yes, any obdII scanner will read the codes and clear them. Really too many variables to try to get into posting common codes. After you read them, post them here and someone should be able to offer advice.

Messages Page 217 of 300

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