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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

2991 messages,  Last post on Jun 05, 2013 at 2:00 AM

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What is this discussion about? Ford Ranger, Truck

Messages Page 206 of 300

#2045 of 2991 Re: ford ranger problems [saari] by gavlik711

Mar 17, 2006 (8:41 am)

Replying to: saari (Feb 12, 2001 3:19 pm)
I have a 1999 Ranger with the 3.0 V6 and and 5 speed manual, and my gas gauge does the same thing, and I too get anywhere from 17 to 19 mpg....and its only a 2WD, so these Rangers are a little disappointing on milage, but its been a good truck. I just rolled over 163,000 miles. Those have been some pretty hard miles too, anyway, yeah what your truck is doing is probably normal.

#2046 of 2991 Several Problems by gavlik711

Mar 17, 2006 (8:49 am)

I have a 1999 Ranger XLT with the 3.0 Flex Fuel V6 and a 5 speed manual. I just rolled over 163,000 miles on it, and its recently started giving me a really weird problem....sometimes when I back of the throtle, it doesnt idle down right away, it stays at high rpm for a couple seconds. I checked all the mechanicals, its not the pedal, not the cable, not the linkage, and not the throtle valve. What is making hard to diagnose is how random it is, there is no pattern to it, it just randomly does it. Does anyone know what its doing and how to fix it??? Finally, the whole time I've owned this truck, its eaten up front brakes like they're candy, and occasionally will make aweful grinding noises as if there is no pads in the brakes at all, and when i check the pads, they're still good. Does anyone else have the same problem and know how to fix it??

#2047 of 2991 Re: 2001 ranger has some chattering when accelerating [montess2k4] by gavlik711

Mar 17, 2006 (8:56 am)

Replying to: montess2k4 (Mar 07, 2006 6:16 pm)
when you say chattering, do you mean clattering or knocking and pinging?? It could be detonation, my '99 3.0 V6 does the same thing under acceleration.....check your plugs and make sure they're in good shape, and also run some fuel system cleaner through it, and if neither of those fix it, the only thing left that I know to do is to simply run a higher octane fuel....thats what I have to do to my truck, I run 89 or 90 octane instead of regular unleaded.

#2048 of 2991 Re: bucking! [aaeagan] by gavlik711

Mar 17, 2006 (9:05 am)

Replying to: aaeagan (Mar 02, 2006 4:52 am)
have you checked your fuel filter? that might be it. good luck!

#2049 of 2991 egr code by rossstocks

Mar 17, 2006 (2:40 pm)

2000 3.0 Flex Fuel 2WD AT
 
Code downloads to "inadequate EGR flow," replacing EGR valve no help. Read online that common mistake is to replace EGR valve without first checking other things. Doh! Don't really have the time to mess with this, so took it to a shop (a parts swapper). They want almost $500 to do several things to it. Yeah, right, and it'll probably still have the problem.
 
Any experiences with this? What's the most likely culprit? What are the easiest/least expensive Do-It-Yourself tests and/or installations that might resolve the problem?

#2050 of 2991 Re: Several Problems [gavlik711] by bolivar

Mar 17, 2006 (10:58 pm)

Replying to: gavlik711 (Mar 17, 2006 8:49 am)
Doesn't idle down - Check for either a sticking/binding throttle cable or a very dirty throttle body around the butterfly valve. With this milage, the dirty throttle might be the problem. Cleaning - I think most Rangers have warnings about cleaning the throttle body with carb cleaner. It supposed to have a 'coating' on it. But if there is a ridge of gunk around the butterfly valve, it will have to be removed some way. If you take the flexable intake tube off, and can see that its really gunked up in there, I would start cleaning. Clean the butterfly also, front and back. There might be some product sold that will clean it and not harm the 'coating'. When I opened up my 94 4L, I couldn't really see any 'coating', but I do think there was a warning sticker there about cleaning it.
Or, the really simple problem also. A floor mat that balls up and keeps the gas peddle pressed down. Happened to me. People don't think this can happen, but it sometime does.
 
Brakes - The slide area on the outside of the caliper, where the calipers slide in when the brake is depressed and slide out to release the pad pressure may never been cleaned. And the 'pins' that hold the caliper and pads together also have to be cleaned. (Consider replacing pins when replacing pads.) Both of these also must be greased with special brake grease. If there is rust on the slide area and general gunk on the pins inside the calipers, the pads will not release and move back away from the rotor. Mechanics do brake jobs and do not clean up the 'moving' parts, just put new pads on. And cause these kind of problems. Especially prevalent in snow/salt areas.
Or, you have a collapsed rubber brake line. These can sometimes collapse internally, can't be seen from the outside. This retains the brake fluid pressure after releasing the brake, keeping pads on the rotor and eats up pads.
 
All these problems are rather common when getting into the high milage area you are in.

#2051 of 2991 Re: egr code [rossstocks] by bolivar

Mar 17, 2006 (11:10 pm)

Replying to: rossstocks (Mar 17, 2006 2:40 pm)
Yep, a lot of good EGR valves are replaced. And the code is still there. EGR valves actually seldom fail.
 
I can't tell you exactly what the 'real' problem may be. But I think there are vacumn switches (electrical solnoid vacumn switch) 'upstream' of the EGR valve on its vacumn control line that are sometimes the real problem.
 
Or breaks / splits in the vacumn lines.
 
Or the lines are bad to the gasoline vapor recovery cannistor, or the valves in the cannistor top are bad.
 
Finding the right failing component when the EGR valve code is set takes a pretty good mechanic, usually running a 'problem tree diagnoistic' set of tests and inspections from a service manual.
 
Checking these vacumn valve and the vapor cannistor are tough to do unless you have a manual that tells what is supposed to be open, what is to hold vacumn, when solnoid switched vacumn valves open or close, etc.
 
About all you can do without a manual is visually inspect lines and fittings.

#2052 of 2991 1995 Ford Ranger by swanker

Mar 18, 2006 (7:49 pm)

I have a 1995 Ford Ranger that the engine light is always coming on. I have taken it to six different places to check and they all give me a different answer we have replaced everything they have told us and still it keeps coming on. Does anyone know what is going on with these trucks

#2053 of 2991 Re: 2001 ranger has some chattering when accelerating [montess2k4] by brysue

Mar 19, 2006 (1:15 am)

Replying to: montess2k4 (Mar 07, 2006 6:16 pm)
I have 97 Ranger that is chattering also. A Ford dealer told me that there is problem with the crankshaft belt and pulley. I guess the pulley gets oblong. This information was reluctantly given to me. And it was also "unsure". 300 dollar possible fix. Why can't dealers be honest? I understand the grey area, but huge corporations? I guess that is how they get so big.

#2054 of 2991 Re: 1995 Ford Ranger [swanker] by bolivar

Mar 19, 2006 (12:52 pm)

Replying to: swanker (Mar 18, 2006 7:49 pm)
6 places can't repair a 'check engine light'?
 
You need to find better mechanics.

Messages Page 206 of 300

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