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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

2986 messages,  Last post on May 15, 2013 at 6:47 AM

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What is this discussion about? Ford Ranger, Truck

Messages Page 170 of 299

#1689 of 2986 fuel in the oil by z1970sutton

Oct 03, 2005 (12:20 pm)

I have just purchased a 1994 3.0 V-6 auto ford ranger . It runs good but the oil fills up with raw fuel and it bellows white smoke upon acceleration especially during in town stop and go driving.I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and changed the oil the smoking has slowed but only because of the clean oil, the oil is filling up with gas again.This is my 2nd oil change and it will start smoking again Does any one know what the problem could be?Also the top of the regulator has a vacuum line attachment but their was no line.Where is it supposed to go to.If this truck blows I will be in serious trouble as it is my only transpo...I know the gas in the oil is damaging the motor and its killing me. Can someone help!

#1690 of 2986 how to remove rear door panel, 2001 extra cab? by fordrick1

Oct 03, 2005 (9:11 pm)

my rear door won't open, the latch at the top won't release (but the bottom latch releases). I'd like to get inside to see what's wrong, but don't know how to get the panel off and I don't want to break anything. thanks

#1691 of 2986 Re: fuel in the oil [z1970sutton] by tatmarshall

Oct 04, 2005 (6:19 pm)

Replying to: z1970sutton (Oct 03, 2005 12:20 pm)
I'm not sure about all of your problem, but, per one of the auto repair manuals, the vacuum line to your pressure regulator is simply engine vacuum, i.e. manifold vacuum. There should be a vacuum routing diagram under the hood somewhere; check it out,run a line as shown. If there is no diagram, find the vacuum tap, somewhere on the intake manifold. Trace all of the lines from that point; you should find a disconnected line, or plugged line, or some such. That should be the line to your regulator; hook it up.
 
The regulator works by controlling fuel flow back to the tank; in your case, the injectors see all of the pressure that the fuel pump produces. I I don't know how the fuel gets into your oil, but, getting the regulator to working might correct all of the problem.
 
Be aware, you might have a bad regulator.

#1692 of 2986 Re: fuel in the oil [tatmarshall] by z1970sutton

Oct 05, 2005 (7:35 am)

Replying to: tatmarshall (Oct 04, 2005 6:19 pm)
Thank you for the advice I will see to it tonight! You believe the new regulator could be defective; huh I would never have figured that . I will take it back and get another,it was very simple to replace.
 
Thanks Again,
Gary

#1693 of 2986 Re: Ranger won't crank [lyelton] by ranger_owner

Oct 05, 2005 (9:28 am)

Replying to: lyelton (Oct 01, 2005 3:46 pm)
The same exact thing started happening to me on Oct 3. I have a 96 ranger, 4-cyl, no air, man trans. I push started it and it would go. Then it started ok for 2 days. Today, I couldn't start it again.
 
I have the same exact symptoms - solenoid clicks, nothing else. Battery is fine.

#1694 of 2986 Electrical wiring problems by dine1

Oct 05, 2005 (12:55 pm)

I own a 1994 ford ranger x-cab. Whenever the engine warms up and I apply the brakes, the battery guage and oil pressure guage go crazy. When the battery guage reads 0, and I try to use the door locks or power windows, not only do the locks/windows don't work, it somehow turns off my satellite radio that is plugged into the cigarette outlet. I have thought of replacing all of the wires behind the instrument panel, but is this worth it? I forgot to mention that when the battery guage reads 0, both turn signal lights (in the instrument panel) will turn on and stay on. The truck does have close to 200,000 miles on it, so I need advice on whether to try to fix my electrical problems or just give in and give up the truck.

#1695 of 2986 Re: Ranger won't crank [ranger_owner] by lyelton

Oct 06, 2005 (3:45 am)

Replying to: ranger_owner (Oct 05, 2005 9:28 am)
Hi... The reply just before yours for my question lists all of the "normal" things that need to be checked. I have done these also, but didn't list them because I thought it obvious and didn't wish a very long post to the group. I assume you have done the same. There is an underhood light and I have removed it so that isn't the problem. The starter has been changed... twice. The battery has also, and the current one is only a few months old. I found a person this past week who had a BMW that did the same thing and was told by a dealer, "that is just the way it is." He now drives a different brand of car.
 
The fellow before you in this post thread indicated it might be a relay. I was aware it might be... I was hoping that this was common enough that I didn't have to tear the whole truck wiring harness apart to find it. I guess it isn't, which is good for Ford, but this is an irritating problem.
 
I am about to rig up a relay of my own to disconnect the battery via a switch under the dash, with only the clock, radio, and relay circuit energized at all times. It is a bit of a kludge repair, but my sanity is worth it.
 
If the switch were well hidden it would also have the added advantage of being a theft deterrent. Sounds like my weekend project... if I can get the truck started to move it to my shop.
 
Good luck with your truck.
 
Larry

#1696 of 2986 Re: fuel in the oil [z1970sutton] by tatmarshall

Oct 06, 2005 (8:19 am)

Replying to: z1970sutton (Oct 05, 2005 7:35 am)
If you haven't replaced the regulator yet, be sure that the vacuum control line is in place on the one you have. I agree with you, it's not likely that the new regulator is bad; it IS possible.
 
Without the vacuum line in place, the regulator can't work.
 
Again, I hope this helps.

#1697 of 2986 97 RANGER HIGH IDLE BETWEEN SHIFTS by reddogsos

Oct 06, 2005 (10:33 am)

I have a 97 ford ranger 4x4 5 speed manual trans and 3.0 engine. When driving my truck, it hesitates to idle down between shifts. I can actually be cruising in 5th gear and just mash the clutch in and the truck still stays at rpm for a little while unless braking and slowing quickly. While sitting in the driveway not moving but reving the engine, it idles down just fine. This led me to the vss. I can unplug the vss and drive the truck and it idles down quickly but then i have no speed odometer. I replaced the vss with no help. The iacv is the same. I unplug it and it idles down quickly while driving so I replaced it also with no help. I also replace the tps with no help. I cleaned the maf also. My brother hooked laptop and diagnostics up and we drove around showing no codes and everything working perfect. It confirmed throttle was not sticking and rpms were slow to go down and even sometimes reving just a little higher before dropping when depressing the clutch. Any help is greatly appreciated. Running out of money buying sensors.

#1698 of 2986 Re: fuel in the oil [z1970sutton] by paulp1

Oct 07, 2005 (7:46 am)

Replying to: z1970sutton (Oct 03, 2005 12:20 pm)
hello my name is Paul,
 I don't know if oyu have fixed your problem yet, but by the messages i read that people have sent you, prob. not. you more than likely have some bad piston rings, valve stems, or a blown headgasket - any of these would let gas get into your oil, and with a blown headgasket you would have anti-freeze mixing with your fuel and oil.
hope this helps.

Messages Page 170 of 299

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