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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

2986 messages,  Last post on May 15, 2013 at 6:47 AM

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What is this discussion about? Ford Ranger, Truck

Messages Page 17 of 299

#160 of 2986 Ranger oil leak by dle01

Jul 29, 2001 (11:28 am)

I have a 1999 Ranger 4 door 2WD with the 3.0V6 and automatic transmission. The truck has just over 40k on it, which puts it out of warranty. I recently noticed a small oil leak, and asked my favorite local repair shop (a Goodyear ASC) to take a look at it while the truck was in for an oil change last week. They inform me that the leak is coming from the main seal between the engine and transmission, and that the transmission will have to be removed to replace the seal. In addition, they tell me they have seen this frequently in Rangers, most recently on a 2000 model with just 15k.
 
Has anyone experienced this problem before? If it is a common problem, what are my chances of getting Ford to fix it even though the truck is out of warranty? Are there any known Technical Service Bullitins or recalls for this problem?
 
I am going to fix it regardless, but I think it is pretty absurd that this kind of problem is occurring on a truck this new. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

#161 of 2986 oil leak by midnight_stang

Jul 30, 2001 (5:31 am)

If it's small, just put a dab of silicone on it. Unless you like spending money.
 
Is it me or does it seem those who double post never check back?

#162 of 2986 oil leak checking back by dle01

Jul 31, 2001 (11:50 am)

midnight_stang -- I have been checking back frequently. Thanks for your advice on the silicone. I'm going to check with the dealer first, and if no response then I just might try it.
 
Is double posting some kind of bad net ettiquite thing? If so, I'm sorry.

#163 of 2986 yeah.. by midnight_stang

Jul 31, 2001 (6:46 pm)

I'm not sure how bad your main seal leak is, but all gaskets just wear out eventually. Try working with header gaskets on a 460 big block in a 67 mustang! I probably replace one side or the other twice a year.
The silicone is what I'd do if the dealer makes you pay. Because all you have to do is spray a little carb cleaner or other grease cutter on the under side, start 'er up, and see where it comes from. Then you take a hefty amount of silicone and make a seal around the leak. It should take 15 minutes and 3 bucks, with that method. I also don't think there's any Ranger typicality or TSB related to it, or spoog would have posted it by now... (See Ranger vs Tacoma forum)

#164 of 2986 "Midnight" Oil Leaks by ebbgreatdane

Aug 01, 2001 (2:35 am)

 
Midnight -
You cracked me up with the spoog comment. How true it is.
 
Oil Leak -
I'm not sure how long the silicon will last you down there. Definitaley it won't hurt but check it once a year. Heckuva lot cheaper and less problematic than letting your dealer dip into your tranny.
 
How large is the leak? If it's say between 1 and 2 drips per day, try the silicon and make sure to degrease that area once every other month or so. Is this an automatic? If so, oil not degreased from those surfaces will adhere to the metal and collect dirt causing your transmission and motor to not be able to dissapate heat properly (i.e., it starts to act like insulation in a bad way) and will do things like cause transmission and engine oils to bake and fail prematurley.
 
If it's a larger leak, say 3-6 drops per day, well, looks like your doing some maintenance. You may also want to try the Maintenance section of Town Hall.
 
Good Luck,
John

#165 of 2986 Engine light on! by 96flea

Aug 01, 2001 (10:13 pm)

Took my 96 4.0 w/45000 miles on it to Pepboys cause the engine light came on. They found nothing and resat the computer. 120 miles later the light came back on so i took it to a private owned garage. They found a tranny code came up on their computer. They resat it and said it was really nothing to worry about. The light has not came on again yet. Has anyone else had this problem? The truck runs good. It has the occasional clunk in rear end but its done that for a while. Also, how do you get swirl marks out of a black paint job?

#166 of 2986 my 2 bits by midnight_stang

Aug 02, 2001 (6:34 am)

Swirl marks typically come from scratches occured while washing or waxing with dirt on the sponge or towels. You can usually minimized the appearance, or even clear up the not-so deep ones by using a good product line of waxes. I use Mcguires. Basically you'll need to use a body scrub/paint cleaner/scratch filler. Some people like clay bars to help remove the particles. Then a paint polish to get paint oils and colors back to new. The a clear coat wax/carnauba wax to seal it all in. Since you have black paint, really top it off with a lot of clear coat polish to keep the UV's from fading the paint.

#167 of 2986 Thanks Midnight! by 96flea

Aug 02, 2001 (8:55 pm)

#168 of 2986 Thanks Midnight! by 96flea

Aug 02, 2001 (9:01 pm)

Thanks for that info but i think i'll have it done. Never heard of a clay bar but i've seen a Blue Coral product that claims to get rid of swirl marks. As for the code that came up it was a emmisions code. The secretary thought the mechanic said transmission code, big difference! He said it had someting to do with a canister, but what? Clean it or does it stick? He did not tell me so has any one had this problem before? I cannot complain about this truck. Usually every used car i buy something goes wrong in the 1st year i buy it. Since the Ranger got a better reliability rating than the Civic in the 96' year it makes me feel better.

#169 of 2986 Tune up intervals? by 96flea

Aug 02, 2001 (9:09 pm)

I find it hard that my Ranger is to go 100,000 miles until 1st tune up. So any of you suggest when i should change the plugs, fuel filter, pcv valve, wires (what type of wires and where should i buy them) and when should i have the fuel injectors cleaned? I have a reg. cab, 2 wheel drive, 4.0 v6 w/46000 miles.

Messages Page 17 of 299

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