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Last post on Jun 05, 2013 at 2:00 AM
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Ford Ranger, Truck
#1456 of 2991 Cuts off when starting off
by cliftronics
Jul 16, 2005 (8:19 am)
I am trying to figure out what is wrong with my daughter's Ford Ranger. It is a 4 cylinder 1999 with automatic tranny. It has recently developed a problem when starting off. If you release to brake and let the truck begin to roll and be easy with the accelerator, it will go. The problem is when you you accelerator normally, it will cough and cut off. As I stated earlier, this is my daughter's truck, and I can't let her drive until I get this fixed, because of the traffic being pretty heavy in our area. The purpose of saying that, the truck starts back with no problems and runs good afterward. It just cuts off when starting off. When it does cut off, it makes a noise like compressed air being released. Up to this point, I have replaced the spark plugs (8) and plug wires (8). I am now attempting to replace the fuel filter. I have come across a small problem with this too. The fuel line connections are something I have never seen. The connector looks kind of like a air hose connector, only it does not have the spring loaded collar that you slide back to release air hose connectors. I cannot figure out how to release these connectors. I need some advise on these problems if anyone can help me. THANKS!!!
#1457 of 2991 Re: 91 ranger 2.3 will not start [callerdale]
by hunter3079
Jul 16, 2005 (8:47 pm)
thanks for your help but have already replaced both
#1458 of 2991 Re: Cuts off when starting off [cliftronics]
by brysue
Jul 16, 2005 (10:35 pm)
I would get some electronic cleaner and clean the MAF sensor. The connector does have a spring on the inside. You cannot see it. There is a small tool you can pick up at the auto parts store that costs about 5 bucks. Ask the guys there.
#1459 of 2991 Re: purpose for duel coil packs and eight plug 4 cly [brysue]
by selders
Jul 17, 2005 (8:50 am)
Sorry I haven't had the chance to get back on here. Damn hurricanes throw your whole schedule off. You've allready done more with the catalytic converter, and exhaust than I've got around to. The coils I bought were from Advanced Auto and they seem to be doing O.K. I ran the test for codes on it about a week ago and guess what, It said that the throttle positioning sensor wasn't getting enough signal. Actually I think it said signal was low, but it's getting replaced next. The only other thing I 've been able to figure out is that the whole "surging" thing may very well be due to just plain old lack of power. Mine dosen't seem to do it if the A.C. is turned off, or better yet wait til you're driving and in the middle of third gear turn off the A.C. and see if it still does it. I've been looking into going a different route with mine and trying to free up as much H.P. as I can. We'll see how that goes I guess.
#1460 of 2991 1999 ford ranger water pump
by ryan9999
Jul 18, 2005 (7:02 am)
I have a 3.0l v-6 1999 ford ranger. I'm trying to replace the water pump.
I have one bolt that i can't get to. According to the haynes guide i need
to remove the "air conditioning compressor and power steering pump bracket"
but it doesn't say how to do this. Do i have to remove the belt tensioner to do
this? I only really see one bolt holding this bracket on and when i removed
that it did nothing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
#1461 of 2991 Speedometer and related problems
by dicklamb
Jul 18, 2005 (7:48 am)
My neighbor and I replaced the alternator in his 1999 Ranger 4 WD 3.0L pickup. That fixed the charging system problems, but when we drove it we found the speedometer no longer worked. Of course, everything needing data from the speedometer (e.g., ABS, cruise control, shifting) has problems. Is there anything anywhere near the alternator that we could have bumped to cause this?
#1462 of 2991 1998 Ford Ranger
by ntrd
Jul 18, 2005 (10:36 am)
the vehicle got up to about 35 MPH and then just shut off. The oil pressure dropped repidly to zero, and everything went dead. (no noises, no vibration, will turn over with starter, just won't start now.
#1463 of 2991 94ranger orfice tube
by budselect
Jul 18, 2005 (2:05 pm)
I ned help I can't seem to find the orfice tube , on my ac. Thanks for any help
#1464 of 2991 Re: purpose for duel coil packs and eight plug 4 cly [selders]
by brysue
Jul 18, 2005 (6:22 pm)
Well the 2.3 liter engine only produces about 100 horsepower but, you should still be able to get most of it out of the engine. In my case it seemed as though I was only getting half. I have gotten some very good results after my last battle with my truck. It had been an ongoing war for about a month and a half. I found an intermediate connector attached to the ground wire that connects to the front coil pack right mounting bolt. You should be able to find this on your truck. It had some oxidation in this connector. I filed this oxidation off. What I should have done was cut this completely out and soldered the wire ends together. I used electronic cleaner in all the connectors to the fuel injectors and any connector related to the ignition. I also sprayed electronic cleaner to clean the MAF sensor. I bought some SEAFOAM cleaner at the auto parts store and cleaned my throttle body very well. I removed it competely to do this. I also sprayed SEAFOAM into a vacuum line in the intake manifold while the truck was running. I actually had a friend spray it while I revved the engine up and down to about 3500 RPMs. This SEAFOAM stuff is awesome. I would really recommend you do this. The results were amazing. I have so much power since I did these things. And even with the air conditioning on, I have very, very little power loss. I am so pleased. Try these things and see what happens.
#1465 of 2991 Re: 1999 ford ranger water pump [ryan9999]
by ryan9999
Jul 19, 2005 (11:16 am)
never mind i figured it out. There are 3 bolts on the front of the bracket.
Only one of these are obvious the other 2 are recessed behind the
belt tensioner and you have to feel around with your fingers to find these.
There are also 2 on the bottom that are double nutted. The first nut holds
up wires after these are removed the second nut unscrews the bolt from the
engine.