Last post on Aug 05, 2013 at 5:49 AM
You are in the Ford Ranger
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Ford Ranger, Truck
#1429 of 2995 Re: Slave cylinder [newtruckgal]
Jul 12, 2005 (1:54 pm)
I took my 2001 Ranger 2WD w/5 speed manual trans (44K miles) yesterday to the dealer. The clutch pedal was low and it was hard shifting. I complained around 27K miles and was blown off. Finally it ran out of fluid and I put some in. The dealer didn't bother to check the fluid since right after the last oil change it was so low it stopped shifting. The answer from the dealer was that it needed a slave cylinder and would cost $830 (changing the clutch also). The trans has to be dropped because the slave goes completely around the input shaft. I knew the slave was leaking because I crawled under and popped out the viewing plug on the lower left side of the trans and saw that the boot was damp. They charged me $70 to tell me that and did nothing. When I got home, I filled the reservoir and bled the slave (bleeder is right above the hydraulic tube going into the trans). The peddle is up where it is supposed to be. The fluid I took out was jet black opaque.
To answer you question, the slave can be changed without changing the clutch. The dealer claimed that since the cost of replacement was mostly labor, I should change the clutch too.
Bottom line is that I believe that the material is defective. The after market has the part for $30. Looks like to drop the trans, the floor cover must be removed, the cross member unbolted and dropped, head pipe unbolted to pull the trans. I am going to do it myself and then sell the truck. My daughter recently bought an F-150 with a manual trans and on inspection I found the same part number on her slave.
NO MORE FORDS FOR ME! The son-in-law who owns a 1 yr old Chevy full size short bed with I think a 5.4L V-8 gets the same mileage around town 17mpg.
Hope this helps.
#1430 of 2995 Re: Door Ajar light and dinging won't go off [keithreed]
Jul 12, 2005 (4:15 pm)
Yup, WD40 works well, but it's only a quick fix. Here in NY I kept having the problem about 4-5 times a year. The dealer wanted about $35.. for a new switch.(common with Fords). I took the switch out for now. It's located right behind the door latch. A bit of a pain to get at, but it does show you how far you can really bend your arm.
#1431 of 2995 Re: NEED HELP! RANGER XL 1995 [jotabrz]
Jul 12, 2005 (4:24 pm)
#1432 of 2995 Re: Warm weather fuel pump problem [smokin_joe]
Jul 12, 2005 (4:58 pm)
3 to 4 mos. ago I changed the fuel pump and filter, and had the injectors cleaned.
changed the egr valve soon after because I had a code. new plugs and wires also.
so far has started everytime, since new etc sensor. and didn't die on me today goin to or from work, but I'm sure I'll see that again soon.
any other Ideas?
#1433 of 2995 4.0 L 1992 Ford Ranger XLT
Jul 11, 2005 (11:23 pm)
I just got my new(used) truck recently and love it. The engine has lots of power and no problems what so ever. It still has the electronic hubs that are supposed to wear out easily but they are still mint. I was just wondering if anyone the power rating on this ranger and how many km's it might last until. It has 214000 right now.
#1434 of 2995 Re: 92 Ranger 2.3 Acceleration Problem [callerdale]
Jul 12, 2005 (5:40 pm)
Excellent work. It feels good to get something fixed, doesn't it? I have a feeling I will be replacing my MAF sensor in the future. But for now, my truck is running great. I am happy yours is too.
#1435 of 2995 91 ranger 2.3 will not start
Jul 12, 2005 (7:17 pm)
i have replaced timing belt,coils,wires,plugs,ing mod and fuel pump relay.still won't start. no fire to coils or injectors.what is a multi function switch?
Jul 13, 2005 (7:28 am)
My husband has a 1993 Ford Ranger, it has a manual trany. He needs to know how to open the bleeder valve on the hydraulic clutch. Does anyone know? Thank you!!!!
#1437 of 2995 2002 ranger serpentine belt replacement
Jul 13, 2005 (8:04 pm)
Hi, im 16, and im a pretty good mechanic. i have an amazing ranger. it was handed down to me from my late father. ever since i went with him to pick it up a few years ago its been flawless. but right when i got it, the belt started to squeak and its really annoying. i tried everything to make it stop but the belt had its time and now its worn out. its a 2002 xlt 3.0L V6 (w/ac) and i cant figure out how to release tension on the belt or how to get it off. it doesnt say in the manual or in the hood. help me please.
#1438 of 2995 Starting problem
Jul 13, 2005 (8:31 pm)
I have 95 2,3 L it cut off and will not start, It has 180,000 and I have well maintained sense new. I replaced timing belt, water pump and every thing in path
to save future labor cost non of these have been replaced until now. I did this before I started testing figured I would get lucky no luck. have spark ,fuel pressure and timing marks ok and all electrical checks out.I started on vacuum lines and found cracked male plastic fitting going to canister purge valve this line is routed from throttle body goes threw a switch called thermistor to purge valve then to cannister.these two switches have vacuum and electric. It will start at first then die I figure this from lost of vacuum not sure looks like a little JB weld will solve my problem or should I just buy the two switches? Can someone please explain what these switches do and have they caused further damage that I should look for? I have not done anything futher. This crack has been on going you can tell by looking it just gave way and stoped the engine. I thank you in advance for any help