Last post on Aug 05, 2013 at 5:49 AM
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Ford Ranger, Truck
#1421 of 2995 Re: Tranny probs flashing OD light [mikeb2k5]
Jul 11, 2005 (5:36 pm)
My 1996 Ford Ranger 4 cylinder automatic w/overdrive has been flashing the O/D light on & off. The check engine light stays on also. The flashing O/D light only occurs after driving on highway for awhile. Also when the O/D lights starts flashing, and I stop, then go. The transmission shifts real hard and jerky. But once I get home, and turn the engine off, then start up again. The O/D light disappears, but the check engine light stays on, and everything seems fine, Until I drive for awhile, then the O/D light starts flashing again. And the transmission shifts hard and jerky again. Can your tranny expert help?
#1422 of 2995 Re: Warm weather fuel pump problem [jhall1]
Jul 11, 2005 (7:41 pm)
the same problem.
I have a 93 ranger 2.3, 5 speed.
for the last couple of years, in warm weather usually will not start after warmed up.
will get me to and from work, if I have to stop somewhere leave it running.
3 times now it dies while driving, have to wait 10 to 15 min. then it will start.
Saturday I changed ETC sensor. and it has started everytime since, even after 50 miles of alot of turning it off always started. But this morning on way to work it died let the clutch back out it finally started, made it to work. ran fine all the way home, turned it off and restarted.
new sensor might have fixed that problem, and dying could be another
any help would be great
#1423 of 2995 Over heating problems
Jul 11, 2005 (10:38 pm)
Hey guys I have an 1989 Ford Ranger XLT 2.9L V6 and seem to have a heating problem with it. The thing is i can't drive over 25 mins or up a small hill before it over heats. and to top it of its on;y in the summer but its not that hot yet here. I have checked the fan it works and the coolant is full other then that i dont know why its over heating. PLEASE HELP ME.
#1424 of 2995 Re: Warm weather fuel pump problem [ringa1]
Jul 11, 2005 (10:44 pm)
hello i had the same problem with my ford i fixed it by changing the pump see i was told that its because a gas pump, pumps cold gas and when the gas is warm the pump just quits. Its basically give your a warning that your pump is about to die and to change it soon.
#1425 of 2995 '95 Ranger Acceleration/Power Loss, Slight Clacking Noise
Jul 11, 2005 (11:23 pm)
Hey guys, while driving (primarily highway) I've noticed a "clacking" sound when I accelerate and there is a huge loss of acceleration/power while going up hills; so much so I had to drop to 2nd gear. I only hear the "clacking" when I reach highway speeds of about 65-75mph. I don't percieve any problems while driving around town; but then again I'm not reaching 65-75 mph in the city.
Is this an engine problem or does it sound like the transmission? The last time I had this much power loss it was the transmission (that car was '79 Honda Civic), so I'm not sure if that incident is applicable here.
Lastly, do any of you have advice about mechanics who you can TRUST? The last city I lived in I really trusted my repair shop; they weren't the cheapest but I knew they weren't trying to rip me off either. I know the techs need to be at least ASE (I think that's the certification) certified but that's about all I know.
Any advice would be greatly apprecieated on these subjects and thanks in advance for the advice.
#1426 of 2995 Re: Tranny probs flashing OD light [gtgentis]
Jul 12, 2005 (7:17 am)
I had a similar problem to this when I first got my Ranger. The problem with the O/D light was that the computer chip itself had gone bad and had to be replaced.
The check engine light was related to something totally different though. I dont remember the shifting being real jerky but it wasn't as smooth as it should've been. When they looked at the transmission they found metal shavings and had to replace the transmission.
#1427 of 2995 Re: Ranger XLT radio loses power when I brake [dbajohn]
Jul 12, 2005 (8:40 am)
Sorry this is a bit late; your original message was about a week ago. Two Rangers in which I have installed aftermarket audio equipment had poor/deteriorating ground connections to the radio. If, by some chance, the return current from the trailer (or any other) lights is attempting to go through this poor (high resistance path) to battery negative (the only true zero-volt reference point for the vehicle), it will force an unwanted voltage drop in the path. The radio is, presumably, also tied to this reference point (wherever it may be... could be the dash bracket; could be a lug to the body somewhere). Or, it could be the same problem in the supply side instead of the return side but I believe that's unlikely. The effect of having, say, a three-volt undesired voltage level in the return line is that instead of having (for argument's sake) 13 volts supplying the radio, it's really 13 minus the 3 or about 10 volts. This can easily cause a substantial power loss as power is computed as the SQUARE of the applied voltage divided by the load. Translation: 10 volts with a 4 ohm audio speaker load is only 100 (10 x 10) divided by 4 or 25 watts... while 13 x 13 = 169 divided by 4 is 42 watts or so. [These are just examples].
Try this. Supplement the ground connection directly to (at first) the trailer ground by running a relatively heavy wire from it directly to the battery negative post. If the trailer frame is the trailer ground, you might be able to do this by using one or maybe two automotive jumper cables directly from the trailer frame to the truck battery negative. If the problem gets better (might even go away!) that's it.
You can supplement the radio return directly to the truck battery in the same manner. This requires taking the dash panel out and doing a bit more wire-running, but will also re-direct any return current right to zero. You can also try to make a measurement to possibly see the unwanted drop... measure the voltage on the radio housing (negative ground) with respect to the battery negative post. Should be very low; under 0.5 volt under all conditions. If it gets worse (goes UP) when you put on the brakes, that's it.
If any of these tests show improvement, or the measured voltage rises in a voltmenter test as described above, the ultimate repair is to (most likely) supplement one or both return ("ground") paths permanently. I have used about a 6 foot piece of #10 THHN (oil-resistant) wire with a lug on the battery-end and a lug on the radio-end. The radio-end I bolted to the 1/4" hole in the dash bracket immediately to the right side of the factory radio location; you'll see the hole if you remove the factory radio and radio dash panel. Good luck.
#1428 of 2995 Re: 1994 Ranger [jhockeyref]
Jul 12, 2005 (10:31 am)
Interesting. I have a 1994 Ranger with similar miles on it exhibiting the exact same problem. Have you found the culprit in yours?
#1429 of 2995 Re: Slave cylinder [newtruckgal]
Jul 12, 2005 (1:54 pm)
I took my 2001 Ranger 2WD w/5 speed manual trans (44K miles) yesterday to the dealer. The clutch pedal was low and it was hard shifting. I complained around 27K miles and was blown off. Finally it ran out of fluid and I put some in. The dealer didn't bother to check the fluid since right after the last oil change it was so low it stopped shifting. The answer from the dealer was that it needed a slave cylinder and would cost $830 (changing the clutch also). The trans has to be dropped because the slave goes completely around the input shaft. I knew the slave was leaking because I crawled under and popped out the viewing plug on the lower left side of the trans and saw that the boot was damp. They charged me $70 to tell me that and did nothing. When I got home, I filled the reservoir and bled the slave (bleeder is right above the hydraulic tube going into the trans). The peddle is up where it is supposed to be. The fluid I took out was jet black opaque.
To answer you question, the slave can be changed without changing the clutch. The dealer claimed that since the cost of replacement was mostly labor, I should change the clutch too.
Bottom line is that I believe that the material is defective. The after market has the part for $30. Looks like to drop the trans, the floor cover must be removed, the cross member unbolted and dropped, head pipe unbolted to pull the trans. I am going to do it myself and then sell the truck. My daughter recently bought an F-150 with a manual trans and on inspection I found the same part number on her slave.
NO MORE FORDS FOR ME! The son-in-law who owns a 1 yr old Chevy full size short bed with I think a 5.4L V-8 gets the same mileage around town 17mpg.
Hope this helps.
#1430 of 2995 Re: Door Ajar light and dinging won't go off [keithreed]
Jul 12, 2005 (4:15 pm)
Yup, WD40 works well, but it's only a quick fix. Here in NY I kept having the problem about 4-5 times a year. The dealer wanted about $35.. for a new switch.(common with Fords). I took the switch out for now. It's located right behind the door latch. A bit of a pain to get at, but it does show you how far you can really bend your arm.