Last post on Aug 05, 2013 at 5:49 AM
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Ford Ranger, Truck
#129 of 2995 Hmmm...Post 3/36 Ranger Problems
Jun 27, 2001 (7:53 am)
Mine's a 1997 STX 4.0L 4x4 Ext cab. Bought new in August of '97, it has only 40,835 miles on it.
I have seen a few posts about the 'dumb dome', well now my alarm is going off randomly. Over the weekend I quickly looked for the conventional door plunger type and didn't see it. Where is the dome light switch anyway. I'm guessing the fix from the past threads that I have seen is to shoot it with WD-40?
Oh yeah, I've had my fair share of issues with it. At 12k miles, the fog light bracket rusted off...completely detached from the mount. Same thing at 22k miles. Foglight lens came off at 38k mile...now its my problem.
At 38k miles, my mileage strangely went from 16 mpg to 19mpg in the city.
At 36k (but 37 months old) the AC went out. Dealer charged me a $50 deductable and fixed the O-ring. At 40k miles the recovery dryer tank (evaporater) rusted through...you know that foam wrap that keeps the moisture nice and tight to the poorly coated steel can. Fortunately, being in the Detroit area and being an automotive supplier on a Ford truck account, Henry Ford 'donated' one to me. They were $240 at the dealer.
Having my father work his whole life and retire from Ford, it somewhat pains me to look elsewhwere for vehicles. But I recently bought a 2001 Isuzu Rodeo and love it. I just wonder what the next vwhicle will be.
Oh yeah, where was that dome light switch?
Jun 28, 2001 (6:01 pm)
I too have experienced a problem with the dome light staying on part time. Works the same with either door and it may stay on from a few minutes to a couple of hours. Since it does it from either door, I would think it was a relay. Does anyone know where that relay would be located. This is on a '96 ex. cab 2.3 and 5 speed. Thanks for any input that might chase down the problem.
#131 of 2995 check engine light
Jun 30, 2001 (5:59 am)
My brother owns a 2000 Ranger (V-6, 5 spd, 4x2). he tells me that his check engine light came on while driving. The dealer checked it out and told him something about the "EGR valve and/or gasket" and something about "removing and replacing transducer pressure." I am hearing this second-hand through my mom so the verbage is not exact. The dealer wants to charge him over $500 to fix.
Have any of you ever heard of this?
#132 of 2995 Shudder/Vibration in 4x4 Rangers
Jul 01, 2001 (8:56 am)
I have a 1999 Ranger which had a vibration at take off and stop. Took to my dealer, they ended up replacing the drive shaft assembly. Said that the output shaft from the transmission had some slop and that the u-joint couldn't handle it. Basically, the new drive shaft has a tighter spline shaft on it and a larger u-joint. World of difference. Check it out.
Jul 01, 2001 (7:25 pm)
Could I suggest you go to Pep Boys and buy a Haynes manual on the Ranger?
Cheap, 12 bucks and would answer all your questions.
More than likely the relay is in the engine compartment with the fuses or on the left side of dash, you have to open the door and remove a panel. Do not know which one it is.
"Give a man a fish and he eats for a day. Teach a man to fish and he has food for life"
#134 of 2995 Re...post 125 madman390
Jul 02, 2001 (8:13 am)
If the Ranger is a 2000 then it should be covered under warranty unless you have got over 36000 miles on it already. Even then the service guy could give a better price if it just came off warranty(call ford customer support, number in the owners manual) and if these are all related to the pollution controls such as the EGR valve they are covered under the EPA warrnty for 5 years and I believe 50,000 miles.
Jul 02, 2001 (2:07 pm)
Thanks for the info. The truck is a daily driver, with lots of miles on it already. Around 40K I believe. And like I said, I am hearing this second hand, so I don't have all the info. But I will pass this on.
#136 of 2995 madman...check engine
Jul 06, 2001 (12:13 am)
Just in case you're still checking...
The check engine light will come on for a number of reasons. Personally I think car manufactures were brilliant. They created a computer in the vehicle that has awesome diagnostic information to tell the Tech what is wrong with your truck will little or no diagnosis on their part.
All you see is a "Check Engine" light. Absolutely brilliant. Did you know a loose gas cap will set the light off due to an imbalance in the gas tank back-pressure. Funny thing is is that the computer has an error code it spits out for that. And again, all you see is a Check Engine light.
Now that I'm off my soap box, I think I would definately be in the Dealer's face a little bit more. These parts should be covered under the smog components warranty (and/or aspiration system warranty) which is generally longer than the bumper to bumper 3yrs/36,000 mile warranty.
Read the manual carefully and it will probably lead you to glory (getting the dealer to worry about fixing your truck rather than your friend).
#138 of 2995 Radio Buzzing follows Engine RPM's
Jul 06, 2001 (9:00 am)
2000 Ranger, shortbed, 2.5L, manual, Air, AM/FM. Base model, nothing sexy here. Problem - Engine buzz thru the radio - problem developed after hitting a bump in road. Doesn't matter if AM, FM or whatever. Volume of buzz doesn't vary with radio volume. STRONGLY SUSPECT grounding issue, Ford dealership Mechanic thinks otherwise. I asked him to check the ground points, just for grins, which he says he "did". Replaced radio, replaced Noise filter (capacitor), replaced parts related to fuel pump (related to service bulletin with this problem as a symptom). Problem usually goes away or becomes very low-level (barely audible) for a few days, gradually returns. Changin' parts aint working, IMHO, but it's hard to change the paradigms that the average mechanic works under They still think "mechanical", not electrical.
Still think its a grounding issue. Saw this on past cars - ground issues are sneaky gremlins that a computer won't catch. A ground can look secure and electrically "pure", but sometimes enough of a dialelectric residual exists from paint slop-over to wreak havoc with some of the more sensitive circuitry in today's vehicles. Remedies usually involve going to all ground points using either a deburring tool, emery cloth, or both and wearing down the metal to alleviate any residual films, seen or unseen. Vehicles aren't just "machines" anymore, they're sophisticated devices. Diagnostic computers will do the trick in 99% of the instances, but the 1% are still the mystery that need Tech guys to solve the problem.