Last post on Aug 05, 2013 at 5:49 AM
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Ford Ranger, Truck
#1277 of 2995 2004 4.0 auto Ranger xlt lemon??
Jun 02, 2005 (2:18 pm)
I have a 2004 ranger 4.0 5sp. auto that has intermittent problems!!
When it runs good it runs great!!!
When it runs BAD it looses power, takes off in 2nd gear and rapidly shifts to 5th gear by 25mph, air blows cool only, Will not down shift until full throttle at 20mph, Brakes during panic stop become rock hard and won't stop!( 1/2 normal braking), Sometimes shuts off (rare), when cruising at 60mph it surges like someone hit you in the back.
Been to the dealer 3 times and all is fine, called another dealer (No help),
called ford ( never heard of this)?? 11500miles in 18 months and almost 5 wrecks. Any Ideas. I think its the computer retarding the timing causing a loss of vacuume in turn causing loss of power in brakes and ac ducts not to close.
P.S. No codes or warning lights. But like i said when it runs good it runs great and everything works properly, it just wont do it at the dealer.
Also 12.3 MPG sucks
#1278 of 2995 Re: Overheating, can't find cause. [truckgrrrrl]
Jun 02, 2005 (8:25 pm)
I have a 94 Ranger with 4L automatic. It does NOT have a vacumn cut-off valve in the heater lines.
But, a few years ago, in an effort to maximize my summer A/C output (thinking I would close it in the summer and open it in the fall), I cut one of the heater lines and installed a manual cutoff valve.
With this valve closed, stopping the flow through the heater core, the temp gauge started doing very strange things. Previously, the gauge would start out 'cold' and slowly move up to about 1/4 or 1/3 gauge (about the O in NORMAL). With the new valve in place, and closed, when started cold the gauge would move up to about 3/4 gauge, then drop to the almost far left. It would cycle like this a few times. If it was cooler outside temp, and driven slowly, it would continue to cycle. If you took it and ran at highway speed (55+), the gauge would go to the normal 1/4 gauage and stabilize.
This freaked me out so much I opened up the valve. The temp gauge then stopped this nonsense and returned to operation as before.
Based on this, if someone has a cycling temp gauge on a Ranger 4L, I would first guess you might have a plugged heater core, which would be the same as when I placed the valve in the line and closed it.
Ford's design of the cooling system for this motor appears to require circulation throught the heater core to maintain a stable warm-up. Exactly what is happening, I don't know.
#1279 of 2995 Re: HELP!!! where is the fuel pump [cranky]
Jun 02, 2005 (8:31 pm)
Inside the fuel tank. You have to drop the tank (or remove the bed) to get to the top of the tank.
#1280 of 2995 truckgrrrrrlllll
Jun 02, 2005 (8:40 pm)
One other thing.
4L of this age also have the lower intake bolts loosen up. This usually causes pinging (air coming around the gasket and leaning out the fuel mixture) and/or oil usage. I've never heard of water leaking into pistons, but it might happen.
Tighten the lower intake bolts up. This is almost a 'normal' maintenance item on this motor of this age (mid 90's). It takes like a 8mm or 9mm 1/4 socket and extension and flex drive. You can get to all of them. There is a certain 'sequence' but I just moved around and side to side on mine.
Mine went from using almost no oil in 4,000 miles to suddenly setting the 'check oil' light, and being 1 1/2 quarts low. Tightening these bolts stopped the oil usage.
#1281 of 2995 Re: Radiator fluid leaking out dash bouard [richyankee80]
Jun 03, 2005 (3:18 am)
Yeah, you definitely have a heater core problem. The film on the windshield is a prime indicator. Also, if you notice s 'sweet' scent inside the vehicle, you have antifreeze inside the vehicle.
#1282 of 2995 Re: Side Turn Signal Lights [greenchief]
Jun 03, 2005 (6:30 am)
Open the hood, directly over the headlights are two 7/32" screws. Remove and then lift the small plastic piece. You will see two levers, one on each side of the headlight. The outboard faces fwd, inboard faces rearward. Pull up on these as far as they will go. They will be stiff, they WILL NOT come all the way out. This will release the headlight unit. Wiggle it free (as far as the wires on the headlight and parking/turn signals will permit. This will provide access to the side marker light bulb. BE CAREFUL putting it back, you can break the aiming screws.
While you are there. You will see a brown and a black wire going to the side marker bulb. If you cut the black wire, and splice the bulb end of the wire to a tap off the green with white stripe wire going to the parking/turn signal bulb, it will cause the side marker light to blink with the trun signal when the lights are OFF, and blink opposite the turn signal when the lights are ON.
NO GUARANTEES TO THIS PROCEEDURE. PROCEEDE AT YOUR OWN RISK.
#1283 of 2995 Re: 2000 Ranger problem with down shifting while driving [birdy1]
Jun 04, 2005 (8:14 am)
I have a 2000 Ford Ranger with a 3.0, and I am having a similar problem. I come to a stop and the speedo goes to 0. When I take off it clunks and the transmission is not shifting correctly. Eventually the speedo starts working again. The OD light flashes from OD on to OD off. I have no idea what is wrong with it. Have you found out what sensor it is?
#1284 of 2995 Need help with tailgate latch, shifter knob, front wheel bearing diagnosis
Jun 04, 2005 (2:09 pm)
I have a '95 Ranger 3.0L/6-cyl shortbed, manual tranny, w/155K miles. Several little things are starting to go on it after 10 yrs of ownership just as I'm getting ready to sell, and I need some help on fixing these.
First, the shifter knob just popped off one day, and I can't find anywhere how to reattach it. Any ideas?
Second, when I pulled up on the tailgate latch about a week ago there was a "pop". I figure the cable snapped inside the tailgate, but how can I get it down to attempt repairs? Also, I can't find anywhere how to go about repairing this minor problem.
Third, I hear squealing from the front tires and there's black soot on the rims. I just lubbed all the points, and it's continuing so I figure the bearings need repacking and I'll need to inspect the spindle. Does this sound like a good diagnosis? What can I use as cleaner for the bearings? How will I know if they need to be replaced versus repacking? What should I look for on the spindle to decide whether or not to replace it, too? Any help would be much appreciated.
#1285 of 2995 low range doesn't work
Jun 05, 2005 (7:35 am)
I have a 1994 ford ranger xlt 3.0L v6 4x4 and it has the push button 4x4 and low range and the 4x4 works but my low wont so is there a fuse or what
#1286 of 2995 Re: Need help with tailgate latch, shifter knob, front wheel bearing diagnosis [bulldog3732]
Jun 06, 2005 (9:02 am)
If it is a threaded the threads are worn or if its a press on it may be worn enough not to stay on. Try to epoxy the knob onto the shaft. Use a good two part epoxy you can buy at Pep boys or some hardware store. On the tail gate you should be able to remove the panel on the inside of the gate to give you access to the inside for the latch and the cable. And if you carefully on either end at the swivel hinge you will not that one end does not nave a complete end cap but a partial to allow you to swing the gate down and then lift up to un hook it and then swing it away and off. Look for it ral carefull and you eill see it.
As for the black soot on the rims that could just be brake dust from the disc brakes and not the front bearings. The squealing is probably because you have so much dust built up that its causing the pads to rub on the rotor and squeal. Try blow out the dust and then use some wheel cleaner or Simple Green Cleaner to clean the rims. Hope these suggetions will work for you