Last post on May 15, 2013 at 6:47 AM
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Ford Ranger, Truck
#1203 of 2986 Re: Electrical problems galore [maryjoh]
May 09, 2005 (9:54 am)
This has been an ongoing problem with Rangers for eons OK at least since the early or mid 90's. These were some fixes that were posted back then that I saved for such instances.
FOR THE PAHNTOM WIPER SWITCH THAT TURNS ITSELF ON BY ITSELF:
The following is based on observation of my 1999 Ranger, other years may be different. I fixed the phantom windshield wipers myself, you can too. It turns out all you need to do is clean the switch up.To clean the switch does NOT require removing the turn signal from the steering column and takes about ten minutes.1. On the turn signal lever, remove the end cap with a small screwdriver.2. Remove the phillips screw located under the end cap.3. WATCH IT! there is a spring to push back against the wiper rotating knob. Hold in the wiper switch so it won't go flying.4. WATCH IT! again. When removing the wiper rotating switch there are two detents that are pressed against the inside of the knob (with another small spring pushing against each other) to give detents to the different levels of wiper delay when you rotate the knob.5. Inside you will see the switch wiper mounted to a white plastic piece that you can just pull out. It looks kind of weird with 4 arms and an elbow wiper coming out of it.6. After you pull out the switch wiper just gently clean everything inside, a sort of circuit board looking goodie with rings for the switch wiper to rotate on.I used a rag and a small (jewelers) screwdriver to clean the board inside and very carefully made sure the gaps between the traces were clean. There is quite a bit of grease in there.I reassembled the switch using lubriplate (it was handy) and it was very easy to disassemble and to reassemble.I have had no re-occurrence of the phantom windshield wiper and I don't miss it a bit.
For the lights coming on and staying on and or the door ajar warning going on at the same time, the swithc is in the door below the door jamb. After taking the door panel off you can reach in and remove the switch or if you have small arms like me you can go in and spray eclectrical contac cleaner on the switch. Try this on the door latch firts to see if it will trickle down to the switch Some poeple don't recommend using wd40 as ti cn get gummy after ahwile and collect dirt. here is the item, posted along time ago to correct this ailment:
First for some background. My drivers side failed which caused the dome light and the warning chime to remain on. This was fixed under warranty. A few days ago, the dome light was remaining on. Knowing what the culprit was and since the door chime wasn't going off, I knew it was the passenger side door. I first tried the standard fix...flooding the door latch with electrical contact cleaner. I'll take the time now to warn everyone, DO NOT USE WD-40. WD-40 has a tendency to gum up, when it dries, and causes problems with electronics (contacts). This did not solve the problem, so off I went to the Ford Parts counter. I purchased a replacement contact switch for $11.03 including tax. (Sorry, I don't have the part number handy but email me and I'll send it to you). The switch is nothing more then a pin switch which is activated by the latch hook when it rotates to the door open position. The switch is located on the bottom of the latch assembly inside of the door.
TO REPAIR/REPLACE THE CONTACT SWITCH:
Remove the door panel. My '95 required the removal of four screws. Two under the door pull, which is then removed by carefully prying the trim piece out of the locking tabs holding it onto the panel. One screw, holding the panel to the door, is exposed once the pull is removed and the fourth is located at the bottom of the panel (outside edge, carpeted area). Once the screws are removed, lift up the whole panel and remove it from the door. Next, carfully peel back the plastic vapor barrier, if you are careful and take your time it will peel back without tearing. Pull the barrier back far enough to provide adequate access to the door latch. Find the wire leading to the door latch. The wiring is attached to the infamous contact switch at the bottom of the latch. Remove the harness from the switch. It has a standard tabbed connector. Now grasp the switch and rotate it 90 degrees towards the outside of the door. The switch can now be removed from the bottom of the latch assembly.
The latch as I said, is a simple pin switch. The plunger (contact pin) has a tendency to stick in the switch. This may be from the door latch lube running down into it and gumming it up. Anyway, it fails to extend and break the electrical contact, hence the dome light and/or chime doesn't cancel when the door closes.
There are two courses of action once the switch is out. Clean the contact or replace it. Since I already had the new one I replaced it. However, after cleaning the old one with contact cleaner, alcohol, and then applying an electrical contact cleaner/lube, the switch functioned perfectly. This was place in the box for the replacement switch and stored for future use.
Once the new/cleaned switch is replaced (reverse of removal), functionally check the operation. If all is well, reinstall the vapor barrier (I used 3M adhesive spray to enhance the existing adhesive along the edge of the barrier), then the door panel (don't forget to line up the lock pull at the top of the panel), reinstall the screw(s) and your done.
Having done this, I can understand why the problem occurs. Flooding the latch with solvent may not properly reach the switch plunger and free it. A few minutes of very light mechanic work can possibly salvage a perfectly good switch and solve a lot of frustration
Hope this info helps!
#1204 of 2986 Interior Light
May 09, 2005 (10:27 am)
My Ranger has a problem with the passenger door causing the interior light to stay on even when it is closed. Any suggestions???
#1205 of 2986 Ranger Flex Fuel
May 09, 2005 (1:45 pm)
I just found out that my 99 ranger can run on some sort of corn gas. Anyone know how I can find out where to purchase this type of gas??? The guy at the shop told me it is a lot cheaper than regular gas. Thanks??
#1206 of 2986 Re: Interior Light [justing]
May 09, 2005 (1:46 pm)
I had the same problem with my Ranger, I just sprayed some WD40 on it and haven't had a problem since.
#1207 of 2986 Re: purpose for duel coil packs and eight plug 4 cly [bolivar]
May 09, 2005 (6:43 pm)
O.K. Well it turns out that with a little research and luck and I think I've got ti fixed. For one now both coils are new, plus a general tune-up. Plugs and wires. Seems to have made quite a bit of difference. Gonna run code scanner on it in the morning after I get to work and see what it says.
#1208 of 2986 Warm weather fuel pump problem
May 10, 2005 (6:45 am)
I have a 90 Ranger with a 2.9L and 5 spd. It runs great but occaisionally it will not start due to the fuel pump not running. This has only happened in warm weather after the vehicle has been run and is completely warmed up. It has never cut out, or even had a rough idle, while running. I suspect a relay that is heat sensitive and is cooled adequately while running, by the fan, but I can't find such.
Any suggestions on the location of said relay or other solutions?
#1209 of 2986 Re: Can Somebody Help Me Out??? [kimble989]
May 10, 2005 (8:09 am)
I changes the Speed Sensor on the rear like the guy earlier requested and it fixed my problem. If it starts acting up again I will change the PCM, but thanks for the follow up on the problem.
#1210 of 2986 Re: Electrical problems galore [maryjoh]
May 10, 2005 (8:25 pm)
I fixed the interior light staying on thing. The door switch got a little sticky, some silicone spray fixed it.
#1211 of 2986 96 ranger clicking, won't start, but not the battery!!
May 10, 2005 (8:34 pm)
My son was stuck in Texas recently when his truck would only click. He took it to a guy who apparently cleaned up the starter solenoid contacts, and promised to order some kind of voltage module. Now it starts, but then only once until the starter has a chance to cool off for an hour. He says the voltage module is sending too high voltage to the starter/solenoid, causing burning. Is he blowing smoke? Did Ford really put an 8 volt starter in a 12 volt system.
#1212 of 2986 where is the coolant tempature sensor located ?
May 11, 2005 (2:09 pm)
I have a 89 2.3 ranger and a scanner is telling me to replace the cts But I can't find it. I looked at a newer truck and found it in the heater core line, but my motor is a different configuration. Help it wouldn't idle when cold.