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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

2826 messages,  Last post on Dec 05, 2009 at 8:41 AM

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What is this discussion about? Ford Ranger, Truck


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#11 of 2826
Probably should not say this again, but by kit1404
Feb 17, 2001 (8:17 pm)
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I had a 1998 Ranger 4X4 with 4.0, 5-speed auto that was the only Ford I have ever owned that was a lemon. The engine was bad - rebuilt by a dealer I trusted - engine still bad again. My point here is I have a 1999 F-150 4X4 with 5.4 and all the good stuff including big tires/off-road package. This truck gets within 3 mpg of the Ranger all the time and has all the power in the world, not to speak of so much more comfort. OK, it costs about $5,000 more in real dollars - XLT Ranger fully loaded vs. XLT F-150 fully loaded. No way do these trucks even begin to compare for that difference - the F-150 is truly twice the truck. Check out the Ford rebates - at least in our southwestern area - the F-150 is the only one WITHOUT a rebate. There is a reason why it is so popular - it my be the best truck and value compromise out there. Just hope Ford keeps up the good develpment dollars with the F-150 - the Ranger sure could use some too.
#13 of 2826
problems with lights by nerangerdrvr
Feb 19, 2001 (2:58 am)
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I have been having a problem in my 1998 Ranger xlt 5spd mnl trans truck with the lights. When a passenger gets in, the overhead lights like to stay on. After about 20 mins, they blink out, as the should normally. The door open dummy light stays on too...anyone know anything?
#14 of 2826
Driveline Bump by jjarosik
Feb 19, 2001 (2:05 pm)
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Go to the Ranger III subject heading and read from entry #317 (I think) to follow my dilemna on driveline "bump". Just an hour ago, the dealer finally told me the spline is not mated properly at the yoke on LOTS of extended-cab Rangers and that its a manufacturing problem. After my warranty replacement of same, she drives tighter than new. My opinion is that backlash (or "frontlash" on take off, if that's a word) is NOT normal for a small truck, small engine, relatively short wheel-base, low miles, blah, blah, blah. This is a Ranger (and Mazda) parts manufacturing problem that you shouldn't have to just live with. Put on your best mean-face and go get a new shaft for free.
#15 of 2826
nerangerdrvr by scape2
Feb 19, 2001 (8:21 pm)
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Sounds as if the switch on the door latch is sticking.
#16 of 2826
'94 Ranger Fuel pump circuitry problem by xiangyh
Feb 21, 2001 (10:50 pm)
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My '94 Ranger failed to startup recently. After some debugging work, I found out that the fuel pump is not turned on during startup. The fuse is fine. I can also make the fuel pump running by jumping a wire directly to inertia switch. So the problem must lies somewhere in the circuit between the fuse and the inertia switch. I have a Haynes Repair Manual but could not find any wiring diagram about the fuel pump. Does anyone know how the fuel pump is wired, or where I can possibly find the wiring diagram? Thanks in advance!
#17 of 2826
ranger problems by saari
Feb 23, 2001 (5:30 am)
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In responce to Valance. I have a toneau cover on my ranger and haven`t broke the 19 mpg yet! Have you or anyone driven the truck low enough so the gas warning lite comes on? What is the true reserve?
#18 of 2826
2001 fuel gauge by david6
Feb 23, 2001 (5:44 am)
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I have a 2001 2wd, and I find that even when I drive for a while on empty with the "check gauge" light on, I still have 3 gallons left in my 19.5 gallon tank (based on needing 16.5 gallons to fill the tank), and if I fill up when it first hits "E" and the light comes on, I only need 15.5 gallons to fill, leaving a reserve of 4 gallons! So now I ignore the gauge more and more. The problem is that one of these days I'm actually going to run out of fuel! But like I say, the lowest I've gotten is still 3 gallons away from dry. It would be nice if these were calibrated better, like for 2 gallons reserve, IMO.
#19 of 2826
xiangyh!!!!! by igloomaster
Feb 23, 2001 (6:51 am)
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I have the SAME PROBLEM with my 1994 Ranger 2.3.
 
I had the inertia switch replaced in September.
I had the fuel pump replaced 2 weeks ago. The mechanic dropped the tank, tested the power wires to the pump, and was getting FULL and PROPER voltage. The pump would not work. He replaced the pump. Then 2 days ago, I couldn't get the truck started for the life of me.
The next morning, as I was arranging to have it towed, i tried to start it and it started on the FIRST TRY!!!! What the hell is happening.
 
e-mail me at igloomasteryahoo.com.
 
I'm bringing the truck back to the mechanic next Monday to have him look over all the wiring and see if he can find out why this problem is happening. I don't know a damn thing about electronics/fuses in cars.
#20 of 2826
Try this... by 2k1trd
Feb 23, 2001 (3:37 pm)
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replacing the relay.

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