I sold my 91 Ford Escort, (a rebadged/different sheet metal Mazda 323) and my 1994 Toyota Corolla in about two weeks using the local newspaper. Kellys Blue Book (kbb.com) or NADA (nada.com) can help you with the pricing, be sure to use only fair or good to get a realistic price to list your Protege for re-sale. Edmunds.com's on-line site will even allow you to print out a window sticker. I had a couple of loser's show up/call, but overall it was pretty easy. I sold the 91 Ford Escort to the first looker and the 94 Toyota Corolla to the third looker. I did real well for my-self selling well above the wholesale/trade allowance values and found nice homes for my cars, that had some decent use left in them. I stressed one owner, clean title, and well maintained in the classified newspaper add. I got a bunch of calls on the Escort right away (only asking $3,000). I needed to drop the price on the Corolla one time to sell it (started at $8,500 sold for $7,200 two weeks later). I detailed the Escort my self and paid a $125.00 to have the Corolla professionally detailed. IMO the detailing, the well researched asking price and original owner theme sold those cars quickly and relatively painlessly! Hboyd, I hope this helps you my friend.
I would have to agree w/ protegextwo about the local paper advertisement. I would also suggest parking it where people can see it. I was trying to sell a '98 Dodge Caravan a couple months ago. I parked it in a shopping center parking lot along a busy road and within two hours I had sold it.
Never thought about the whole shopping center parking lot thing. I will have to try that next time I want to sell a car. I sold mine on the internet, but I did lower the price of it by $300 only because I was desperate. I did make $550 more than the dealership wanted to give me for it. Considering the car passed inspection with flying colors, has a warranty good until 6/2003 or for 26K more miles, and every record since new (I was the second owner of the Bonneville) it wasn't hard. I have someone to buy it now, giving me cash money for it, and is foaming at the mouth for the title.
I drove my Protege DX back in January of 2000 when we had a 22-inch storm. Until the snow started to add up to 8 or 9 inches, I was doing fine. If you drive through heavy snow regularly, you might want to leave the Protege at home or add snow tires.
Something to remember: The wheel covers (which I had) have little ports in them which hold snow. If it freezes, the car will be off balance and shake at higher speeds. I found out the hard way, and took it to the dealer for a "defrost" that morning.
I live in Syracuse,NY (we get tons of snow) and also live in a part of town where I must go up and down some rather severe inclines to get to work/home. I do not have snow tires (just the stock) and also possibly made the mistake of getting a car without as (nothing available at the time that also had my other criteria - silver as and moon roof). I am happy to say I have had no troubles this winter (knock on wood) so I would say as long as you drive safely in the in climate weather the Protege can handle the snow very well.
My dealer (the only one) here in town quoted me $40 per pair for the mud guards! It sounds like a rip off to me...does anyone else have any better ideas to get their hands on a set? We've looked at the ones they sell in the auto parts stores, but they don't really fit all that well.
What do you all think?
But if you want mud guards you might as well go with the ones that are molded to an exact fit. I don't think you can find after market ones that would look as good as these. I paid about 40 per set for mine too, but look at it this way-it's only a one time cost and they'll probably last the life of the car.