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Hyundai Santa Fe Prices Paid and Buying Experience

2222 messages,  Last post on Nov 30, 2008 at 8:36 PM

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What is this discussion about? Hyundai Santa Fe, SUV


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#1094 of 2222
Re: I waited 10 months to buy [lize] by ksheff
Jul 07, 2007 (9:13 am)
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Replying to: lize (Jul 05, 2007 1:37 pm)

Denny Hecker's Hyundai of Inver Grove (I-494 & Robert/Hwy 3) is where I first saw the Santa Fe in Aug 2006 and where I got the best deal. I stopped there yesterday to get a squeaky window fixed and asked that they set the doors to lock when I reach 10 mph. I was used to that feature in my minivan and it's a safety issue that I forgot to have them do before I took delivery. They did both fixes right away while I had a hot dog, popcorn, soda and cookie in the customer lounge for lunch. They are building a Honda dealership next door after the old mom & pop car sales lot that was there was leveled. My Hyundai salesman said they are looking forward to prospective buyers crossing into their lot after seeing overpriced Hondas, so they expect many more Hyundai buyers.
#1095 of 2222
Re: I waited 10 months to buy [ksheff] by lize
Jul 07, 2007 (1:54 pm)
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Replying to: ksheff (Jul 07, 2007 9:13 am)

thanks for the info -- yes, that is exactly where my best price is currently residing -- Morries and Metro have come in far higher, and the Inver Grove shop has been great -- this just validates my decision to purchase from them, assuming the car is still there on Tuesday (waiting to see how the rates change!)...
#1096 of 2222
What else does one buy on top of the base vehicle? by girlnextdoor
Jul 08, 2007 (5:07 am)
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I'm going to go in tomorrow to talk to them about buying the Santa Fe Ltd with AWD, ultimate and touring packages. Talking to other inexperienced people, we hear about things ilke rust proofing options, extended warranties etc...
 
What else is truly useful to buy and how much should I be expected to pay for these add-ons and what are just money making scams that they throw on in the last minute to get more out of you?
 
Thanks again for the advice!
#1097 of 2222
Re: What else does one buy on top of the base vehicle? [girlnextdoor] by tuggers
Jul 08, 2007 (6:37 am)
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Replying to: girlnextdoor (Jul 08, 2007 5:07 am)

I would wait until Tuesday as the current $1,000 rebate ends
on Monday. I think most of us are hoping for an increase.
 
I'm only looking for the following on the Ltd I want:
 
Premium Pkg (leather and sunroof)
Mud Flaps (to keep the back clean or so I'm told)
Cargo Tray (I have a Great Dane who will travel in back and I want to prevent stains and dirt)
 
That's it for me.
 
Oh, and the 10 year/ 100,000 mile HPP (bumper to bumper) which you can get for $759.
#1098 of 2222
Re: What else does one buy on top of the base vehicle? [girlnextdoor] by mpuzach
Jul 08, 2007 (7:22 am)
Reply

Replying to: girlnextdoor (Jul 08, 2007 5:07 am)

I don't recommend any of the so-called dealer-installed interior or exterior "protection" packages. They're nothing but profit centers for the dealership and they provide little if any benefit for the car. Even if the dealer tells you that it's already been installed, make it clear that you're not willing to pay for it. (Keep in mind that Hyundai provides you with 7 years / unlimited mileage rust-through protection.)
 
As for extended warranties, I'm surprised that some folks here are buying them given how comprehensive the factory warranty is. Nonetheless, I'll share something that few here seem to know about; I learned about this when I switched to GEICO insurance a few years ago. GEICO offers an option called "Mechanical Breakdown Insurance". It works just like an extended warranty and it covers everything on the car up to 7 years or 100,000 miles. (In the Hyundai's case, then, it only adds 2 years or 40,000 miles to the bumper-to-bumper portion of the factory warranty since GEICO's coverage doesn't actually kick in until the factory warranty expires.) There's a $250 deductible per covered loss. The cool thing about this is that to get the coverage, you just pay a few dollars extra with your monthly premium. For my Santa Fe Limited AWD, it costs me an extra $4.75 per month. One thing to remember is that for your car to be eligible it must be less than 15 months old AND have less than 15,000 miles on it. In other words, you can't wait until your Hyundai's factory warranty is about to expire before you take out the GEICO coverage. I took it out as soon as I got my Santa Fe. Yeah, doing so will cost me around $70 more than had I waited until my 15th month of ownership but this way I won't forget to take out the coverage.
 
Here's a link to more details:
 
GEICO
 
As for other accessories, there's a lot of stuff available through your dealer's parts department and on eBay. I bought a set of 4 factory mud guards through my dealer's parts department for around $45. I installed them myself with a screwdriver; they look great and fit perfectly. When you buy your car, get the dealer to agree to sell you accessories at cost; it's something they can do to help get the sale, it won't really cost them anything, and it could save you some $$$ down the road.
 
Here's a great example of a rear compartment tray that's available for $50 + shipping:
 
Cargo Tray
 
You'll also want the optional factory floor mats; as far as I know most dealers are ordering them on all new Hyuindais so it shouldn't be a problem.
 
Hope this helps.
#1099 of 2222
FYI to tuggers by mpuzach
Jul 08, 2007 (7:26 am)
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  • All 2007 Santa Fe Limiteds come with leather. The Premium Package consists of only the moonroof.

  •  
  • See my post above for info on the mud flaps and cargo tray.
  • #1100 of 2222
    Any chance the $1000 rebate will go away or be lower after Tuesday? by girlnextdoor
    Jul 08, 2007 (12:34 pm)
    Reply
    #1101 of 2222
    Re: Any chance the $1000 rebate will go away or be lower after Tuesday? [girlnextdoor] by mpuzach
    Jul 08, 2007 (1:49 pm)
    Reply

    Replying to: girlnextdoor (Jul 08, 2007 12:34 pm)

    Of course there is. Anything can happen. The car companies are very tight-lipped about incentives until they're announced which almost always isn't until they actually take effect. Most of the time, the dealers don't even get advance notice. For those who are choosing to pass on the current incentives in the hope of a better one starting on or after July 10th, it's a gamble that could go either way. We'll see. One thing is certain - the supply of 2007s is going down. The longer one waits in the hope of saving a few more bucks, the less chance they have of finding the car they want.
    #1102 of 2222
    Need help negotiating (didn't do so good last time) by longtalltexan
    Jul 08, 2007 (7:54 pm)
    Reply
    This will be our 3rd Santa Fe. We just love them and the 2007 model is our favorite so far. We need help in the negotiating department and had a few questions:
     
    1. We are looking at getting a 2007 Santa Fe Limited with the touring and ultimate package (that adds the 3rd row seats, DVD and enhanced music system). The dealer has offered to sell it to us at "employee" price (which is basically $900 less than list as best I can tell). I just don't know how much room they have to play with. What would be a reasonable price to shoot for for this model? How much below invoice would be considered a fair price?
     
    2. Last time we used financing that the dealer had arranged with a local credit union at 6.25%. Would it be smarter to go in with pre-approved financing already arranged or try to get financing through the dealer?
     
    3. We want to trade in our 2005 Santa Fe LX but it looks like we are upside down. Looking at Edmund's the trade-in value is like 15,000 or so and we owe just under $18,000. Should we bring the trade-in up right away or get our price set and then talk trade in?
     
    4. We basically know the monthly payment we can afford and if we can get the model, color, etc that we want in that range, we would be happy. For that to work we basically need to get our Santa Fe at about $3,000 off sticker price. Should we tell the sales person that and let them try to get us there or should we negotiate price first and then figure out what the payments will be?
     
    5. We are trying to do this right this time. Last time we got a pretty good price but then we let them load us up with all kinds of dealer add-ons (finish protection, etc) so we ended up with a not so great deal. Is the extended warranty or the "upside down" insurance worth it (the insurance that pays the difference between what you owe and the salvage value if the car is totaled)? Are there any add-ons that are worth buying?
     
    Thanks for any help you can give.
    #1103 of 2222
    Re: Need help negotiating (didn't do so good last time) [longtalltexan] by mpuzach
    Jul 08, 2007 (9:28 pm)
    Reply

    Replying to: longtalltexan (Jul 08, 2007 7:54 pm)

    $900 less than "list" (M.S.R.P.) is not a good deal; in fact, based on the deals that are being reported here it's a poor deal. I suggest determining the invoice price on the specific car you're looking at here at Edmunds.com; be sure to include all factory-installed options and destination. I'd offer $1500 less than invoice, less any applicable rebates. (Others here have made it clear that such a deal is not out of the question as Hyundai is providing "hidden" incentives to dealers.) They may not take your offer, especially since you're looking at a configuration (Limited, Ultimate, Touring) that isn't in great supply. Still, it's a good starting point. Personally, if I could get into the car for straight invoice less all rebates, I'd feel good about the deal. Note that I'm talking about dealer invoice, not M.S.R.P.
     
    I'd go in with pre-approved financing but I'd remain open to taking dealer-offered financing if it makes sense to do so. In some parts of the country Hyundai is offering additional rebate money (up to $1500) to customers who finance through them. See how they compare with what you pre-arrange on your own and then decide.
     
    I ALWAYS advocate negotiating the purchase deal first, then bringing up the trade. Keep in mind that regardless, your trade is going to cloud the deal to an extent; you're not likely to buy the new car for under invoice AND get top dollar for your trade.
     
    NEVER negotiate based on monthly payment! If you do, you're virtually guaranteed to put more money into the dealer's pocket than you need to. Instead, use the info above in conjunction with what you determine to be a reasonable trade-in value for your 2005 Santa Fe to arrive at a net purchase price. For example, if the new Santa Fe has a dealer invoice price of, say, $29,000 and your trade has a value of $15,000, decide how much you're willing to pay with your trade. (If it was me and if those numbers were accurate, I'd offer $12,500 but I'd be willing to go as high as $14,000.) If you owe $18,000 on the '05, then the most you'd be financing is the sum of that $18,000 + $14,000 purchase price + taxes + license LESS rebate(s). Use a payment calculator to determine whether or not the monthly payment works for you. If your credit is good, it should be easy to get financed at a decent interest rate.
     
    As for dealer add-ons, I recommend staying away from them. They're vastly over-priced and provide little if any benefit.
     
    Hope this helps.

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