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Nissan Pathfinder Maintenance and Repair

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#1 of 2670 Shimmy by crikey Jan 30, 2001 (1:24 pm)
So far, this is the most annoying problem on the Pathy. There is a TSB on it. Can one of the members post it here for everyone's sake. Thanks.   Oh yeah, I'm first here. Replies to this message: betty5 (Aug 30, 2005 6:43 am) shark715 (Sep 06, 2005 7:11 am) 2002pf (Oct 08, 2006 12:14 pm) xplorx4 (Oct 08, 2006 9:19 pm)
#2 of 2670 Shimmy (copied from big list) by pathstar Jan 30, 2001 (2:00 pm)
#538 of 975  NTB/TSB for shimmy by smithmd  Jan 05, 2001 (03:20 pm)   Here is everything about the shimmy. I found my old post. I'd actually saved it in a text file on my PC just-in-case. I'm still shimmy free. Now the other old post: I just got the Nissan Service Bulletin I had mentioned. It's 11 pages and includes and lot of stuff, so I won't attempt to reproduce it on this page. I will say that on the flow chart, the first question is, "Is this vehicle equipped with Nissan OEM wheels and tires?" If the answer is no, such as if you have already replaced the tires, the flow chart states, "This Technical Service Bulletin and Nissan Warranty Coverage do not address vibration that can be caused by after market products or modifications." Even though you've replaced your tires already, you might ask your tech to print you off a copy of this NTB. I remember some folks talking about having their wheels chromed. The next question in the flow chart is, "Are the Nissan OEM wheels aftermarket chrome plated?" If the answer to this question is yes, you get the same response as the guy that has already replaced his tires. Nissan Service Bulletin Classification: ST99-001 Reference: NTB00-061 Date: July 18, 2000 1999.5-2001 Pathfinder steering and/or body vibration Applied Vehicles: 1999.5-2001 Pathfinder (R50) Service Information If a 1999.5-2001 Pathfinder exhibits steering and/or body vibration while driven (without braking) at speeds between 60 and 70 MPH, the cause(s) may be: - Road input (road surface imperfections) - Out-of-balance front or rear tires/wheels - Insufficient steering rack sliding force adjustment - Tire flat spotting - Excessive tire Radial Force Variations (RFV) The last part (RFV) is where they look to index or match balance your tires and if that still doesn't work, they replace your tires. Hope this helps.   Copied without permision - I hope no one is offended. David Replies to this message: mac1 (May 25, 2004 12:56 pm)
#3 of 2670 Hard Start... by phil47 Jan 31, 2001 (8:20 am)
I figured I would post this here also. In the last 1000 or so starts in my 2001 PF LE, I once had a situation where it didn't fire up in 2 tries (didn't even cough). I finally depressed the gas pedal a bit and cranked and she fired up like there was no problem. No problems since...but kind of weird for a truck that usually starts and runs so well.   I'm at 3400 ft in Calgary, but the truck was in my heated garage. It also hadn't been used for a few days and the weather had warmed up considerably. I'm wondering if maybe it was just condensation in the tank? Anybody else have this problem?
#4 of 2670 Jerky downshifts. by phil47 Jan 31, 2001 (8:23 am)
While I'm at it, I've noticed this truck can give you quite a kick when downshifting from 2nd to 1st, even with moderate acceleration. I think I also get a good kick from 3rd to 2nd. Anybody else notice this or think it's an issue?
#5 of 2670 phil47: Hard Start by nismofreak Jan 31, 2001 (8:35 am)
So far (7500 miles) I have only one issue with hard starting. My Pathy was outside in the cold with the nose pointing down in the driveway (10-15 deg incline). It so happened that I didn't have my gas cap on as well. It did start after the second try though.   If you are indeed worried about condensation, then try dry gas. I had that same issue with my 300ZX TT and dry gas worked beautifully!   Cheers!
#6 of 2670 Jerky downshifts by pathstar Jan 31, 2001 (9:10 am)
Mine was like that too. After I passed 7000 km it kind of smoothed out. Just for the record, jerky shifts on an auto are actually a good thing. The trans. actually lasts longer when it does this (less slipping of the clutch packs). At least that's what a transmission engineer told me a few years ago. To be on the safe side, check your trans. oil level.
#7 of 2670 pathstar: by phil47 Jan 31, 2001 (9:15 am)
I've heard that too. Crisper tranny shifts (less clutchpack slippage) is one of the first upgrades that's recommended if you boost engine HP by supercharging, etc. Maybe this is one of the mods made to the new drivetrain with the increased HP of the VQ engine. Anyway, it's nice to hear it smooths out eventually (and I will check my fluid level). Thanks.
#8 of 2670 nismofreak: by phil47 Jan 31, 2001 (9:19 am)
I've started using an injector cleaner that also works as a gas dryer (kill 2 birds...blah, blah). Probably the best thing I could do is not let the tank run below 1/2 when it's cold outside (hard to do when this truck only lets you go 200 km on a half tank!!). I hope this prevents that problem again. Your situation sounded like it could be condensation related also.
#9 of 2670 Parking Brake Problem by jambazi Feb 10, 2001 (6:47 am)
I posted this in the main area too, but it's more of a problem that needs a solution, so I'm posting it here.   Anybody with the shop manual: What does it say about the adjuster for the rear drum brakes? In post #503 in the main area, meca2 talks about turning this star-shaped wheel inside an access hole to tighten the brakes. I did that, but now it seems like my parking brakes are too tight, and don't disengage all the way! Is there any way to undo this? Please say yes, and tell me how!   thanks, Howie
#10 of 2670 Parking Brake Solution by jambazi Feb 10, 2001 (10:55 am)
I was right, the parking brakes were too tight. That star wheel tightens the brake pads against the drum as you rotate the wheel inwards. I had tightened them too much, so then the pads were dragging against the drum! (Yikes!)   So I brought it to the dealer, and the mechanic simply loosened it by pushing in on the retaining lever by using a thin, bent screwdriver. As he released the lever, he was able to ratchet the star wheel back notch by notch.   It worked, and when he was done my wheels spun freely once again. Of course, now the pads are a lot closer to the drum than they were before, and that translates into less travel before the brakes engage (feels better).   Moral of the story: if you do adjust the brakes manually, do not overtighten the self-adjuster wheel! If you do, you'll have to do the thing with the small screwdrivers.   Or, see meca2's post in the main area. There's a way to adjust the brake under the lever.   BTW, the mechanic told me that the self-adjuster mechanism works by pulling the parking brake lever. It doesn't work on the back-up principle like other cars.   I can't wait until my manual gets here.   --Howie

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