Honda Odyssey Care and Maintenance

745 messages,  Last post on Mar 15, 2012 at 10:19 AM

You are in the Honda Odyssey Forum.

What is this discussion about? Honda Odyssey, Auto Repair, Van

Discuss routine maintenance issues here. For solving of specific problems, please check the topic list.

#736 of 745 Re: rotors and brakes [momwithkids] by azkid2

Jul 15, 2011 (8:37 pm)

Replying to: momwithkids (Jul 11, 2011 10:37 am)
I do very little stop and go driving with my 2008 EX_L. I had the front brake rotors turned and new pads at 75k miles. The pads were still 40% good, but changed anyway.
 
Click and Clack the Tappett Brothers on NPR say easy starts and gentle stops save a lot of wear and tear on vehicles. Try to drive as "far ahead" as possible and slow down and try to coast to a stop when practical. Everyone drives differently and "YMMV".

#737 of 745 Maintenance schedule on 2007 Odyssey ? by svemuri

Aug 08, 2011 (2:58 pm)

Hi,
 
I have 2007 Honda Odyssey EX-L with 45000 miles. Currently, it is showing maintenance minder A1, which amounts to Oil Change.
 
My question is
 
Should I get complete 45000 service, which is about 200$, which includes oil change, transmission fluid change and other checks/refills.
 
or
 
Get the oil changed now and respond to next service minder when it shows up ?
 
Thanks,
Sudhakar

#738 of 745 Re: Maintenance schedule on 2007 Odyssey ? [svemuri] by hondaoddity

Aug 08, 2011 (3:21 pm)

Replying to: svemuri (Aug 08, 2011 2:58 pm)
If you haven't had the trans fluid done yet, I would do it if it is part of the 45,000 mile service. I try to do them every 25,000. (I also have that done at the dealer. If something goes wrong, it's on them to make it right.) It's far cheaper than $2000+ for a new transmission.
 
I really don't like this "guessing game" maintenance stuff. I'm too old school. Tell me what mileage it needs to be done on and I will take care of it.

#739 of 745 Re: Maintenance schedule on 2007 Odyssey ? [hondaoddity] by svemuri

Aug 10, 2011 (1:50 am)

Replying to: hondaoddity (Aug 08, 2011 3:21 pm)
I changed transmission fluids at 30,000 miles. A non-dealer shop that specializes only in Honda/Acura (Honda Acura Connection, San Jose, CA), say that I can wait for 60,000 for next change.
 
But, the dealer shop always push me to change the transmission saying it is dirty/discolored.
 
Sudhakar

#740 of 745 Re: Remote Lock horn not working... [thezone] by mthi

Oct 28, 2011 (5:55 am)

Replying to: thezone (Oct 16, 2009 5:47 pm)
 Have '03 Odyssey with the remote horn signal not working. I saw 2 owners with this issue but can not find any answers to correct this problem. Anyone have and answer?

#741 of 745 Re: Installing new brake lights [fibber2] by jtschira

Feb 26, 2012 (10:04 am)

Replying to: fibber2 (Apr 08, 2006 8:57 pm)
Had the same difficulty and suspected a 3rd screw. Thanks to this post I knew what was going on. I used a length of thin nylon webbing from a tie-down strap to get a hold of the forward edge of the lens housing without chipping the paint. Just push the webbing into the thin gap along the forward edge / corner of the lens and you have a good way to pull right near the stubborn fastener.

#742 of 745 Shimmy by nit2

Mar 05, 2012 (6:41 pm)

I have 67k miles on my 2003 Odyssey. About 2 months back I noticed that at 55 - 60 mph, my Odyssey started to show a distinct jiggle in the ride. Not noticeable it at lower speeds. So I had all 4 wheels aligned. The garage told me that the alignment was really off. When they did the alignment, they rotated the 4 tires - front-to-back. All seemed good.
Ten days later, I noticed that at 55 mph, the steering wheel exhibited a different type of jiggle and I realized that my left rear tire was missing the weight that would be there to balance the tire. So I had all 4 wheels re-balanced and test-drove the car on the highway at 55 - 60 mph and all seemed good.
Less than a week later, I noticed that when I start from a zero, there is a slow jiggle (shimmy?) coming from the steering wheel. At 55mph the jiggle is very noticeable and I get a sound that coincides with the jiggle and appears to be coming from somewhere beneath the car - not the smooth sound I used to hear when all was well. I also notice that to drive straight ahead, the I need to keep the steering wheel turned about 5 or 8 degrees turned to the left.
Has anyone come across this? Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.

#743 of 745 Re: Shimmy [nit2] by hondaoddity

Mar 05, 2012 (8:02 pm)

Replying to: nit2 (Mar 05, 2012 6:41 pm)
It is possible your alignment was not done 100% correctly. All steering boxes have sweet spot that is "straight". Typically it is when the center of the steering wheel is "level". It sound like your steering wheel might have been turned when they did your alignment. The wheels might be set correctly, but if the wheel was turned when it was done, then the vehicle is going to want to travel (drift) either left or right depending on how the wheel was turned during the alignment. If you are finding yourself fighting the steering wheel to keep the car going straight, that is the problem.
 
The shop should have a tool that rests on the driver's seat and pins the steering wheel to keep it where you want it.
 
Another possibility, though unlikely, is the cotter pin was removed (broken) from the spindle/disc nut and the disc and wheel are working their way off the spindle. I did have this happen once when I had my discs replaced. The idiot mechanic never put a cotter pin through the nut and spindle and my wheel and disc were literally bouncing around back and forth on the spindle. Fought to have them pull the wheel and still never got an apology for the dangerous situation they put my family in. And, no, I did not go back.
 
Either way, something is definitely not right with your front end.
 
Good luck

#744 of 745 Re: Shimmy [hondaoddity] by nit2

Mar 06, 2012 (11:08 am)

Replying to: hondaoddity (Mar 05, 2012 8:02 pm)
hondaoddity, many thanks for the reply. Very helpful!

#745 of 745 Glove Box Lock - 2011 Odyssey by harpua2626

Mar 15, 2012 (10:19 am)

I ended up with an ugly, deep gash on my glove box and decided to replace it. The glove box itself only took a few minutes to replace but I need get the lock cylinder out of the old glove box and into the new one.
 
I don't see any retainer to release when I peek under the latch and am at a loss.
 
Can anyone help?
 
Thanks!
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