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Sedans Chrysler 300M Chrysler 300M: Problems & Solutions 
621 messages, Last post on Oct 13, 2006 at 4:47 AM
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Replying to: je2788 (Jul 13, 2006 8:11 pm) |
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| Getting my first set of tires --- got 50K out of the michelins. Has anyone had issues with making sure the wheel balance weights are compatible with the rim profile. I see that chrysler has specially designated coated wheel weights for concordes and 300Ms and wonder if most tire shops have them or are even aware that they may be a specialty application. Are these weights really that unique or do most shops have coated weights that will fit. If cosmetics are the only issue, then I guess they could be installed on the inside of the wheel. Any advice would be appreciated. | |
| Searched this forum and found some info. Seems it is important -- some shops have the right weights and some don't. Local Sam's says they do so we'll see. | |
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Replying to: wakekiller (Jul 24, 2006 12:23 pm) After following the discussions here I bit the bullet and replaced the fuel pump myself. So far several days and 100 miles --no stalls ---. I bought the fuel pump at Drivewire.com for $155 delivered in 3 days. Mine was the pre-12/2000 model car. This pump replaces an older model with a metal top and ground wire. The ground wire is not used. I backed the car on ramps inserted safety lifts and then I drained the tank thru the plastic plug --easy. (Remember no electrical lights & stuff and undo the negative battery post because of gas fumes). Undo the filler tube where you add gas -3 screws. I undid the 4 bolts (13mm) for the metal tank stays. Then undid the sway bar bolts 2 short and 2 long and supported the tank on a car jack. Watch the tension on the electrical line where it is held on the right side heat shield. Undo the shield on that side to add slack. The tank falls down 18" and with the rt side lower you can get to the pump assbly in the left upper rear tank. Carefully undo the electrical connector- slide the red tab to one side and pinch it up and pull. (Look at one to AC compressor under hood to see how it works.) The fuel line connector is simply pinch in the blue plastic and pull. Clean around the pump and then unscrew the top --use a plastic handle screwdriver to tap and start-- and remove noting placement. The seal ring rests on the edge of the opening --careful to replace correctly. Insert the pump and tighten the screw top holder. Reconnect the electric and fuel line. Lift the tank back up and tighten the metal stays. and sway bar. Screw the 3 screws to the filler tube. Connect battery add gas and start. It might have to crank a minute to fill lines etc. This may have solved the problem for me and doing it myself saved ~$200+. Hope this helps someone. Good Luck! |
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My 99 300M 90k miles has been dying while cruising for about 1 yr. Worse recently and once took several minutes to restart on a hot day. After following the discussions here I bit the bullet and replaced the fuel pump myself. So far several days and 100 miles --no stalls ---. I bought the fuel pump at Drivewire.com for $155 delivered in 3 days. Mine was the pre-12/2000 model car. This pump replaces an older model with a metal top and ground wire. The ground wire is not used. I backed the car on ramps inserted safety lifts and then I drained the tank thru the plastic plug --easy. (Remember no electrical lights & stuff and undo the negative battery post because of gas fumes). Undo the filler tube where you add gas -3 screws. I undid the 4 bolts (13mm) for the metal tank stays. Then undid the sway bar bolts 2 short and 2 long and supported the tank on a car jack. Watch the tension on the electrical line where it is held on the right side heat shield. Undo the shield on that side to add slack. The tank falls down 18" and with the rt side lower you can get to the pump assbly in the left upper rear tank. Carefully undo the electrical connector- slide the red tab to one side and pinch it up and pull. (Look at one to AC compressor under hood to see how it works.) The fuel line connector is simply pinch in the blue plastic and pull. Clean around the pump and then unscrew the top --use a plastic handle screwdriver to tap and start-- and remove noting placement. The seal ring rests on the edge of the opening --careful to replace correctly. Insert the pump and tighten the screw top holder. Reconnect the electric and fuel line. Lift the tank back up and tighten the metal stays. and sway bar. Screw the 3 screws to the filler tube. Connect battery add gas and start. It might have to crank a minute to fill lines etc. This may have solved the problem for me and doing it myself saved ~$200+. Hope this helps someone. Good Luck!
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I have a 99 m and I think that i'm idling to low it kinda of had a Hiccup the other day like it wanted to die and it didn't but it almost did. I'm not sure if it idles lower than its supposed to or not. When its in gear and i'm stopped at a light it'll idle at 600rpm when its in park it'll idle at 800rpm. Is this normal? Has anyone had this happen before. Also when I idle the a/c fan will slow down but as soon as I start to drive it will blow harder. I'm at a lost and I don't want to take it to the dealer. Any help would be appreciated.
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Replying to: rogjack6112 (Aug 17, 2006 8:18 am) My check engine light has come on so maybe an error code will show a faulty sensor? I will follow up with my findings --hope this helps someone else. Btw - can I replace the Cam and crank sensors myself? rogjack6112  comcast.net
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Sorry to report it stalled twice this AM -last time took 10 minutes to restart. Evidently the fuel pump replacement was not the answer. My check engine light has come on so maybe an error code will show a faulty sensor? I will follow up with my findings --hope this helps someone else. Btw - can I replace the Cam and crank sensors myself?
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Replying to: rogjack6112 (Aug 21, 2006 4:30 am) Now I have replaced the fuel pump and both sensors -- hope it works. I will report back in a week or so. (BTW the crank sensor did have a tiny hole in the plastic covering about the AC plug.) Roger /Nashville
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