621 messages,
Last post on Oct 13, 2006 at 5:47 AM
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Chrysler 300M Forum.
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Chrysler 300M, Sedan
#556 of 621 300M does not crank properly
by mckinnon91
Jun 21, 2006 (10:31 am)
I have a 2001 Chrysler 300M. My wife and I loved the car until the transmission went out at 45000 miles. A variety of problems have occurred since that time. Here is the one that continues to puzzle me and my mechanic, who has looked the car over at least 3 times and cannot find the problem……and therefore he doesn’t know how to fix. I hope someone here can give me a solution or at least provide some insight.
When cranking cold my car will not start immediately. It will try to crank for approx 3-5 seconds then it will fire up but run “rough” for another 3-5 seconds then smooth out and runs fine after that, good acceleration, etc. It always has a funny gas like smell from the exhaust when it does this as well. If I turn the car off and try to recrank it will fire up immediately….so it seems to be a cold start problem only. My mechanic of 25 plus years cannot figure out what is going on here. He has cleaned the injectors which he originally thought was the problem and checked everything else under the sun, fuel pressure, fuel pump, etc etc. all to no avail. He said whatever the problem it is not serious enough to trigger the “check engine light” so therefore the car’s computer is not sending out any codes. He said he could think of several things that it “might” be but they were all too expensive to be a “trial and error approach” to fixing the car. To date the car has never left me stranded although I am concerned this will eventually happen. It is quite embarrassing when in the parking lot and everyone is looking at you cause your motor is turning over for 5 seconds prior to finally firing up. I would be most appreciative if someone could give me an idea as to what is going on here. My car still only has 56000 miles on it and is paid for so I don’t want to start over with a new car for a while but my wife is adamant about getting this fixed. I don’t blame her. Can anyone help me?
#557 of 621 Re: Engine Stalls while cruising [bluesdude]
by bluesdude
Jun 21, 2006 (6:18 pm)
Replaced the crank sensor 4 weeks ago and have had no further problems
#558 of 621 Re: Tie rod problem? [gsloat]
by ewleigh
Jun 22, 2006 (7:52 am)
I have just experienced the same problem with my 2000 M and am very worried at how expensive this is going to be. What were some of the problems you encountered with this. I have noticed that when I start slowing down my car shakes and the driver side tire is very unstable. This happened all within one week. I have already had so much repaired within the last month. Any help is much appreciated.
#559 of 621 wheele barings
by koryo
Jun 22, 2006 (4:34 pm)
anyone know the socket size to take the axle nut off to replace the wheeele baring?
#560 of 621 Re: drummerboy3 (oxidized headlights) [quietflyer]
by achase1
Jun 23, 2006 (9:40 am)
How do you remove the headlights?
#562 of 621 Re: center speaker replacement illustrated [farmerbill]
by fancyfish99
Jul 03, 2006 (9:34 pm)
I'm new to the board...and have been finding some great info on replacing my cener speaker. Does anyone know what post #261 was referring to when he said he found "this illustrated 'how to' for replacing the center dash tweeter..."? Was there supposed to be a link in his post somewhere? I'd sure appreciate some guidance.
#563 of 621 Broken Cup Holder - $100???
by fancyfish99
Jul 03, 2006 (9:47 pm)
One of the arms of my dual beverage holder (2001 300M) broke off. The dealer quoted me $100 just for the part! It looks like an easy DIY fix, but I'm wondering if anyone has ideas of where to find an aftermarket or maybe salvage part for this?
#564 of 621 steel wheels compatible with 300M
by je2788
Jul 13, 2006 (9:11 pm)
Hello all,
I have been having a recurring problem with my 99 300M that the tires keep losing pressure (this happens on all 4 wheels and I have to add air several times a week). I have been told by several local tire places that it is because of the aluminum wheels - here in snow country, the salt on the roads get into the wheels and corrode them, causing the seal between the wheels and the tires to break causing leaks. And at $40 each time I need to have the tires taken off, wheels scrubbed down to remove the corrossion, and then the tires put back on, it's costing me a fortune.
The guy at my local tire place of choice said that they get 6 to 10 cars a DAY with this problem. He was pretty adamant that car companies shouldn't be selling aluminum wheels in New England, but they do anyway.
Apparently, Chrysler doesn't make a steel wheel for the 99 300M. And the after-market wheels are about $100 each (the cheapest price I've found was $84 each) which is *way* out of my price range.
I'd like to pick up four steel wheels from the junkyard, but they won't be ones made for the 300M.
The tire place says they can use virtually any steel wheel as long as it has a 5-by-4 lug configuration (5 lugs 4 inches apart), but I wondered if anyone here could save me some time and give me some pointers to other car models that would have compatible wheels that I'd be likely to be able to get at a bone yard? I'd actually prefer 16-inch wheels (it has 17-inch now but the tire place said 16 would work just fine too) because of the savings in gas mileage from the smaller tire.
And no - I don't care that I'll be losing the fancy rims, or that the car won't be as attractive as it is now. I LOVE the look of my 300M as-is, but frankly having a safe and reliable vehicle is much more important to me than having a pretty vehicle, so I just want to get rid of these aluminum wheels and put on steel ones ASAP.
So if anyone knows what other model's wheels might be compatible (or can point me in the direction of a web site that could tell me) I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks,
Jay
#565 of 621 Re: Airconditioner only blowing cold air? FYI [donnypatti]
by crossfireman
Jul 14, 2006 (1:26 pm)
I just tried that w/my 99 300M AC which was somewhat weak & intermittent...IT WORKED!!!
If you do not shut the AC off when you turn the car off...I think the doors/dampers stay in the same position they were in when the car shuts off...
I do not hear them returning to a position, which I do when you shut off the AC w/the car still running.
Do you have to manipulate the level..etc often or was one time good enough?
Thanks