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Chrysler 300M Care and Maintenance

99 messages,  Last post on Mar 24, 2009 at 6:10 AM

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What is this discussion about? Chrysler 300M, Interior, Oil, Paint, Sedan

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#30 of 99 10000 mile service by bigmike5 Sep 13, 2004 (8:30 am)
Did he mean 100,000 mile? Don't know on that one, but the big cost around then is the timing belt and water pump [once inside the housing, might as well change it too].
#31 of 99 Replace the battery by charlesf1 Apr 18, 2005 (10:35 pm)
How do you replace the battery? I have a 2000 model with 57,000 on it. I thought I had better find out now how to get to the battery so I will be ready when the day arrives. Replies to this message: njerald (Apr 19, 2005 1:27 pm) seeburg222 (Apr 22, 2005 12:33 pm) tr3323 (Jun 20, 2006 4:48 am) papapaolopiz (Jun 23, 2006 3:53 pm) jonathan_216 (Jun 23, 2006 8:14 pm) kideman (Feb 11, 2007 2:02 pm) eric174u (Oct 22, 2006 4:27 pm) jayrider (Oct 23, 2006 6:03 am) tayl0rd (Oct 23, 2006 8:54 am)
#32 of 99 Re: Replace the battery [charlesf1] by njerald Apr 19, 2005 (1:27 pm)
Replying to: charlesf1 (Apr 18, 2005 10:35 pm) Look in your service manuals.   If you don't have a set after 57,000 miles, take it to the dealer, they'll take good care of you!!!!!!!!!!!!
#33 of 99 Replacing the battery by charlesf1 Apr 22, 2005 (9:36 am)
Thanks for the help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#34 of 99 Re: Replace the battery [charlesf1] by seeburg222 Apr 22, 2005 (12:33 pm)
Replying to: charlesf1 (Apr 18, 2005 10:35 pm) The battery is located down in the right fender. You first remove the louvered plastic wheel house panel - good luck getting it off! The screw clips go flying all over when you try to wrestle it off from the rest of the plastic wheel house. Then remove the air cleaner housing by removing the intake hose from it and then pulling up on it then to the left of the car. Now disconnect the one exposed battery terminal. BE VERY CAREFUL, as I recall, all that you have access to is the Positive terminal. Disconnecting the positive terminal first is dangerous, you should always disconnect the negitive first but it isn't accesible until you slide the battery halfway out the right front wheel well. Then remove the battery hold down. NOW you can finally slide the battery aft thru the access hole in the wheel well. In order to slide the battery out, the front tires must be turned all the way to either the left or the right, sorry but I forget which way. Finally, disconnect the other battery terminal and remove it down and out of the wheel well.   Install the new battery in reverse procedure. Good luck getting that louvered access panel back in place on the wheel house liner. Everytime you move it to line up the screw holes, 2 screw clips go flying somewhere!. If this whole thing sounds like a real chore, it certainly is. Replies to this message: tr3323 (Jun 20, 2006 4:48 am) papapaolopiz (Jun 23, 2006 3:53 pm) jonathan_216 (Jun 23, 2006 8:14 pm) kideman (Feb 11, 2007 2:02 pm) eric174u (Oct 22, 2006 4:27 pm) jayrider (Oct 23, 2006 6:03 am) tayl0rd (Oct 23, 2006 8:54 am)
#35 of 99 service @ 250,000 KM by darla2 May 05, 2005 (9:06 am)
Any recommendations for servicing my '99? Its at 250,000 KM. Replies to this message: 300mkeeper (Sep 03, 2005 7:55 am) laurasdada (Sep 03, 2005 2:28 pm)
#36 of 99 Re: tranny locked in 2nd gear [bigmike5] by garyc04 May 12, 2005 (6:51 am)
Replying to: bigmike5 (Sep 08, 2004 8:23 am) Hi: I have a 99 Chrysler LHS. Had a temporary instance of "limp mode" yesterday, but it went away. I would like to change out the input and output sensors as a PM. Could you please share the part numbers and give a general idea as to location. Sounds like I should be able to do the R&R myself.   Thanks Replies to this message: msher (Aug 15, 2005 4:52 am) xray01 (Oct 15, 2006 3:23 pm)
#37 of 99 Re: Brakes - zenici [muskateer3] by gdchappell May 21, 2005 (9:46 am)
Replying to: muskateer3 (Jun 16, 2003 9:23 am) I have a 2000 LHS. Just had a full brake job done (not at the dealer) and now stopping is an adventure. When you need the brakes the most it seems as if they turn into mush. Before the brake job, I had good braking... the only reason I had the brakes done is I detected a very small amount of scoring on a rear rotor. Other than that, the car would haul down quite nicely even with the scoring.   Could the culprit be those after-market pads you are referring to? -David
#38 of 99 Cooland Flush by my300m Jul 02, 2005 (3:31 am)
I've been reading allot about draining and filling with and without the benefit of the drain plugs and the different ways of draining which is all very informative. However, has anybody ever done a coolant flush? I'm going attempt a coolant change tomorrow on my 2000 300M but I would like to flush the system first before filling since I'm willing to bet has never been changed before.   My idea of a flush would be be drain, fill up with tap water only, run engine, cool engine, drain and repeat a couple of times followed by a final fill with distilled water and coolant. I will only use tap water if I can gain access to the drain plugs, otherwise I'll use distilled water...or maybe use distilled water the last fill and drain before doing the final fill which I will use distilled water.   I may be way off base, therefore, any insight would be appreciative.
#39 of 99 Re: SENSOR [thomas300] by theakwardone Jul 14, 2005 (4:49 am)
Replying to: thomas300 (Feb 10, 2003 8:52 am) Speed sensor is located inside the gas tank along with the fuel pump, pump assembly, and fuel filter it is all on unit. You have to get the unit from the 5* I had my mechanic do it and it cost me about $550. You can do it yourself but it's a REAL PAIN in the A**

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