Last post on Oct 17, 2006 at 8:12 PM
You are in the Chevrolet S-10 & GMC S15 Sonoma
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Chevrolet S-10, GMC Sonoma, GMC S-15, Truck
#469 of 2018 2002 problems
Jan 04, 2005 (2:57 pm)
hello i own a 2002 chevy s10 crew cab 4x4 pickup and i have never had problems like this hope somebody can help first the rear balol bearings went out so i replaced them and now the transfer case has gone out and when i call ed the dealership to see if it was under warranty of course they said no i only have 60,000 miles on it don't anybody use 100,000 mile warranty on things like this any more so now i, pulling my hair out cause seems like every time i turn around something tears up on it somebody pleaser give me some answers of what is going on
#470 of 2018 Re: 2002 problems
Jan 05, 2005 (3:49 pm)
The wheel bearing problem is a common problem on the 4 wheel drive S10. On the 2 wheel drive models, the wheel bearings are greased and repacked with a brake service. On the 4 wheel drive models, I believe the wheel bearings are self-contained and are supposed to be lubed for the life of the vehicle. Unfortunately, the bearings usually go between 60 and 100 thousand miles. I would check your owners manual to ensure that no periodic service is required for the wheel bearings. Good luck!
#471 of 2018 Better gas mileage
Jan 18, 2005 (4:33 pm)
I recently bought a used 2002 GMC Sonoma Crew Cab 4x4. The truck is loaded and the mileage and price were right. The only problem is that the Gas mileage sucks. Really sucks. I thing the truck is getting like 12mpg. Runs great but eats gas. Anybody got any suggestions. I am switching to AMSOIL and an AMSOIL air filter soon. I hope that will help.
#472 of 2018 chevy s-10 pickup
Jan 19, 2005 (6:17 pm)
i have a question for you all should my truck have any problems starting if the EGR VACUUM CTRL SOLENOID is no working i noticed that one of the outlets the hose connects onto was cracked so stupid me played round with it and it snapped clean off now it wont seem to start .
#473 of 2018 Re: chevy s-10 pickup [kimo2]
Jan 24, 2005 (10:29 am)
There is a strong possibility that it won't start. Did you try to tape or re-attach it temporarily and then try to start (electrical tape my hold it long enough for a start)? Is the engine cranking or is it totally dead?
The problem may be that since you engine is not sensing a vacuum signal from EGR, or pulling too much vacuum, it won't start. Don't believe the EGR is electronically controlled. What year and engine type?
#474 of 2018 Lowering 98' S-10
Jan 26, 2005 (2:12 pm)
I was wanting to put a 2-3" drop on my truck but i was wondering if all the lowering kits are universal. by universal i mean through all years because i would hate to spend $150 on a lowering kit when i can spend alot cheaper else where. any information is welcome. THANKS
Jan 26, 2005 (3:15 pm)
is to get a copy of Truckin' or Mini Truckin' magazine - they have gillions of vendors, and you can figure out the best way to do your drop. My advice is to stick with named brand components, like Bell-Tech or Rancho, to avoid cheesy equipment with no manufacturer support.
#476 of 2018 Running rough Help
Jan 30, 2005 (5:59 pm)
I have a 95 S10 vortech V6 engine code W 2 wheel drive I bough used Its been a good truck up until now. I took it to a place and had them run a diagnostic on it they told me it was the fuel injector. I then replaced it still running rough. It sounds like it has a miss or miss firing. I took one of those code readers it told me the air temp sensor was bad replaced that but still no help then I got the check engine back and ran the check again and the new code is P1406. Can anyone help me with this problem.
#477 of 2018 Re: Running rough Help [kokomos10]
Jan 31, 2005 (2:52 am)
P1406 = Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Position Sensor Performance
Remove the EGR valve and make sure the pintle's not being held open with a crumb of carbon. If it is, it can cause a rough idle and the P1406 code.
#478 of 2018 Electrical issues.
Jan 31, 2005 (4:39 pm)
Got a question for all ya... I have a 2001 4.3 ltr zr2. Every 30-45 days I begin to hear a severe altenator noise from the stereo even if the stereo is off. This is then proceeded by the truck going dead once I shut off the engine. No power... I can jump the truck and it then starts to freak out, the gauges start fluctuating, every light on the dash starts to blink and ding, the head lights will go out and back on or the truck will die. I can then start the truck but it will sputter and die. What I have tried to remedy: cleaned terminals, replaced the battery, replaced the altenator. Once I do this I get another 30-45 days before the process starts again? Any Ideas???