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2018 messages,  Last post on Oct 17, 2006 at 8:12 PM

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#2008 of 2018 Fuel Filter by dkurrle Oct 16, 2006 (7:22 pm)
Hello, can anyone tell me if a fuel filter would help with a rough idle?? What are the benefits of changin the fuel filter? I own a 2003 ZR2, 4.3 L V6. How difficult is it to change one? Could someone give me a step by step explanation? thanks Replies to this message: the_big_al (Jun 27, 2008 3:16 pm)
#2009 of 2018 BUMPS by dkurrle Oct 16, 2006 (7:25 pm)
2003 Chevy ZR2. Hi, i dont know if i am a little parnoid or what, but it seems like when i hit a good bump, or lets say a railroad track or something it seems like something does not feel right, kinda like something might be loose. Kinda feels like something is shifting, or kinda rattling. I know this probably doesnt make sense, but what could it be? ALso how common are ball joints to go bad on a zr2?
#2010 of 2018 Re: transmission trouble [Mr_Shiftright] by the_big_al Jun 27, 2008 (3:16 pm)
Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Oct 16, 2006 7:27 am) The cost to replace my transmission was about $1500 wtih a "refurbished" one. It wasn't rebuilt, it wasn't new, but it was in good working order it had been gone over and checked to make sure it was good to go. It never gave me problems after that.
#2011 of 2018 Re: Fuel Filter [dkurrle] by the_big_al Jun 27, 2008 (3:16 pm)
Replying to: dkurrle (Oct 16, 2006 7:22 pm) Fuel Filters are very simple to change. Changing the filter will probably eliminate a suspect in a rough idle, but may not fix the rough idle. The filter is under the driver's side, next to the frame rail on the inside. You will need some shop rags, a pair of pliers, an adjustable crescent wrench, or a wrench set (I can't remember the exact size) and a plan to bleed off the fuel pressure, unless of course you enjoy spraying your self with fuel.   Disconnect the battery and relieve the fuel pressure. Under the hood there is a pressure releif valve (it's a schrader valve, similar to a valve stem on a tire). You can get a kit at parts store that will capture the fluid or you can use the shop rags and hold them over the valve while you depress the pin. Honestly, I would get the kit. After my last experience changing my filter I wouldn't go any other way.   Once you have relieved the fuel pressure, crawl under the truck and change the filter by loosening the nut on the tank side and with the pliers pinching the release tabs on the the motor side of the filter and remove the filter. Have a couple of shop rags and or a small pan to catch the residual fluid that will drain out of the lines.   Install the new filter and make sure your connections are tight, then make sure all the gas is cleaned up from both under the vehicle and under the hood (if needed spray degreaser and hose off. You don't want gas puddled somewhere in the engine bay.) Make sure your pressure relief kit is removed and the cap covering the relief valve replaced. Reconnect the battery and turn on the key. Let the pump run (the whine you hear when you first turn the key) till it shuts off to build up a little bit pressure then crank the motor to start the truck. The truck will take longer to start than normal as you have emptied the gas lines and so it will take a few cranks to get the truck started. But once the truck is started, make sure there are no leaks in the fuel system. Don't stick your head under the truck in case the you accidently didn't tighten something properly and the minute you stick your head under there it decides to come apart. Just look without sticking your head under the vehicle.   That's all there is to changing a fuel filter. Pretty simple and should only take about 10-15 minutes. Unless you are like me and didn't relieve the fuel pressure so that the minute you release the plastic tab fuel sprays backwards into your face, down your neck, up your nose, down your ears, thankfully not in the eyes. Lesson learned Doh. Anyway, I had done it before without relieving the pressure with out such incident but such was not the case the second time... never again !...
#2012 of 2018 dash and doom lights problem by jmedley Oct 17, 2006 (6:10 am)
Hi, The dash lights, including the radio/CD player, do not come on when I start the truck (2000 GMC Sonoma) in the dark morning. They do seem to work when I start the truck during daylight. The doom light will work, but only for a few seconds then it start going on and off. Have checked all fuses and they seem fine. Tried starting this morning with a flashlight on the light sensor on the dash, but it didn't help. Any thoughts? Thanks much, Jim
#2013 of 2018 turn signal/multifunction switch by carrollsue Oct 17, 2006 (10:48 am)
This is a general question. I bought a 1993 S-10 just to have a small truck for getting things done around the house. My turn signal/multifunction switch which works for the mist, turning signal and high/low bream, but does not work for the wipers. I called a Chevy dealer, close by, and they could not find a turn signal/multifunction switch in their parts book, all they could find was the turn signal only. Need a part number if anyone has it?
#2014 of 2018 99 S10 2.2 4cyl. man. by bakesale Oct 17, 2006 (11:58 am)
just picked up this truck a month ago and this thing doesn't accelerate very well at all, even up the smallest of inclines. the motor also 'drops out' at 15mph in 1st, 20-25mph in 2nd, 30-35mph in 3rd, which takes downshifting in an emergency (or uphill, which is a must in this city) out of the question. i've grown pretty tired of impeding traffic and would love to know if this is a known issue, or if there is anything i can do to make this thing work normally. is this an air, fuel, exhaust, trans, or ECU problem? any help would be much appreciated. thanks. Replies to this message: hoodlatch (Oct 17, 2006 5:20 pm) bakesale (Oct 17, 2006 6:46 pm)
#2015 of 2018 Re: 99 S10 2.2 4cyl. man. [bakesale] by hoodlatch Oct 17, 2006 (5:20 pm)
Replying to: bakesale (Oct 17, 2006 11:58 am) If it was cutting out or bucking as you accelerate I would guess plug wires or coil. If it ran ok but was like pulling an anchor I would guess catalytic converter. Has it had a tune up lately like plugs and clean air filter. I had a similar problem one time in the past but not as bad. Finally found a cracked vacuum hose fitting to be the culprit. Replies to this message: bakesale (Oct 17, 2006 6:46 pm)
#2016 of 2018 Re: transmission trouble [thebigal] by marcb2 Oct 17, 2006 (5:44 pm)
Replying to: the_big_al (Jun 27, 2008 3:16 pm) Well, as it turns out, the mechanic told me, to the tune of $2300 it was the tranny and I'd be surprised if the truck is worth that much on trade in, considering it had 158,4?? miles on it. Sooooo, needless to say, I suppose its trade in time on this truck for a newer one. For anyone considering an S-10, with the exception of the tranny now, the truck really has not been a bad vehicle for me. In my opinion, it was worth the 13 G's I paid for it slighty used. It has lasted me a good 6 years and 118,000 miles. Definatly a recommendation from me and have started looking for another S-10.
#2017 of 2018 Re: 99 S10 2.2 4cyl. man. [hoodlatch] by bakesale Oct 17, 2006 (6:46 pm)
Replying to: hoodlatch (Oct 17, 2006 5:20 pm) just replaced plugs, wires, air filter today. and which coil do you mean? will experiment w/ cat. tomorrow and check vacuum hoses, because now that i think about it, there's also a hissing when i hit the pedal. hmmmm....

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