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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions ![]()

2018 messages, Last post on Oct 17, 2006 at 8:12 PM
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I went to drive my 97 s-10 3 weeks ago and backed out of the drive. when i tried to to put it in first gear all that happended was the gears kept grinding, no matter what gear i tried. had it towed and the mechanics said he saw nothing wrong but thought it might be a master slave between the clutch and transmission. so i had that slave and the clutch replaced to the tune of a little over a grand. had it back for 2 weeks and was out on the interstate going 75 mph and all of a sudden it popped out of 5th gear. after a few minutes, i realized all i had was 4th gear. anyone else have similar issues? if so, what was the cause and fix? feel free to e-mail me at marcbuchanan |
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Replying to: rbadshaw (Oct 03, 2006 4:56 pm) |
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Replying to: marcb2 (Oct 14, 2006 8:10 pm) Anyway, it could be possible that it is the transmission???
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Replying to: the_big_al (Jun 27, 2008 3:16 pm) |
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Replying to: marcb2 (Oct 14, 2006 8:10 pm)
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Replying to: marcb2 (Oct 16, 2006 2:17 am)
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Hello, can anyone tell me if a fuel filter would help with a rough idle?? What are the benefits of changin the fuel filter? I own a 2003 ZR2, 4.3 L V6. How difficult is it to change one? Could someone give me a step by step explanation? thanks
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2003 Chevy ZR2. Hi, i dont know if i am a little parnoid or what, but it seems like when i hit a good bump, or lets say a railroad track or something it seems like something does not feel right, kinda like something might be loose. Kinda feels like something is shifting, or kinda rattling. I know this probably doesnt make sense, but what could it be? ALso how common are ball joints to go bad on a zr2? |
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Oct 16, 2006 7:27 am) |
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Replying to: dkurrle (Oct 16, 2006 7:22 pm) Disconnect the battery and relieve the fuel pressure. Under the hood there is a pressure releif valve (it's a schrader valve, similar to a valve stem on a tire). You can get a kit at parts store that will capture the fluid or you can use the shop rags and hold them over the valve while you depress the pin. Honestly, I would get the kit. After my last experience changing my filter I wouldn't go any other way. Once you have relieved the fuel pressure, crawl under the truck and change the filter by loosening the nut on the tank side and with the pliers pinching the release tabs on the the motor side of the filter and remove the filter. Have a couple of shop rags and or a small pan to catch the residual fluid that will drain out of the lines. Install the new filter and make sure your connections are tight, then make sure all the gas is cleaned up from both under the vehicle and under the hood (if needed spray degreaser and hose off. You don't want gas puddled somewhere in the engine bay.) Make sure your pressure relief kit is removed and the cap covering the relief valve replaced. Reconnect the battery and turn on the key. Let the pump run (the whine you hear when you first turn the key) till it shuts off to build up a little bit pressure then crank the motor to start the truck. The truck will take longer to start than normal as you have emptied the gas lines and so it will take a few cranks to get the truck started. But once the truck is started, make sure there are no leaks in the fuel system. Don't stick your head under the truck in case the you accidently didn't tighten something properly and the minute you stick your head under there it decides to come apart. Just look without sticking your head under the vehicle. That's all there is to changing a fuel filter. Pretty simple and should only take about 10-15 minutes. Unless you are like me and didn't relieve the fuel pressure so that the minute you release the plastic tab fuel sprays backwards into your face, down your neck, up your nose, down your ears, thankfully not in the eyes. Lesson learned |
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