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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions ![]()

2018 messages, Last post on Oct 17, 2006 at 8:12 PM
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| I'm the second owner of a 93 Blazer that doesn't want to idle. It's spitting and sputtering unless I'm accelerating. I had it in the shop, they replaced the fuel pump to the tune of $260.00. No help. I've tuned it up and checked everything I can think of, any suggestions or similar problems???? | |
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I have a 93 s10 2.8 6 cylinder. This baby has 178,000 miles and NO major problems. The clutch was replaced and I too have a problem with the chirp that occurs unless pressure is being applied to the clutch. I was told it could be a result of the bearings being slightly offset or maybe the wrong size. Also the door occasionally does not grasp the latch and has become loose while I've been driving. I have never actually fallen out but its still kinda scary. I'm also not too pleased with the paint job(RED) that was put on this truck it has greatly faded and seems to rub off when it is washed or waxed. It has only this year started to rust so I can't complain much about that. Near the bottom of the doors and behind the cab. I would like to know if anyone experienced rusting on the oil pan of these trucks, seems like bad metal. I like chevy vehicles and will buy another.
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| My 99 S10 with 10,800 miles has a weird noise when cold. During the first 5 minutes of driving it has a whine that goes up in volume and then stops but starts again almost immediately. Dealer has changed differential fluid and seal (says that is recommended at 3000 mi. intervals?). Noise still there. Guess I will mark Chevy off my to buy list. | |
| Check out the EGR valve,maybe bad. | |
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I have a 2WD '93 S10 w/ a 4.3L engine and just had to replace the oil cooler lines & oil filter adapter to fix a major oil leak. This may be similar to the problem described by lhidalgo in post #12. But, with 154,000 miles that is one of the very few problems that I have had with this truck. The most frustrating problem that I have experienced is my digital speedometer has become temperature sensitive and does not work in the winter months. Any suggestions on how to fix it? |
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I had the digital dash go out on my S10 Blazer and I was able to fix it. I removed the dash, not bad once you get the heater controls loose, and started re-flowing the solder joints. I would do a bunch and then test it. I believe it was the connections to the power supply card on the rear, so try those first. It hangs off the back side, you can't miss it. Note, if you are not handy with a soldering iron, best let someone who is do this. Also, wear a ground strap like is used to service computers to avoid static damage to the IC's. Good Luck |
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| to #12 lhidalgo. I had the same problem . It was a dry rotted o-ring on the adapter plate.replaced and no problems. | |
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I have a 96 s-10, vortec engine. Currently has 112,000 miles on it and has been nothing but trouble. It was the first "new" vehicle I have ever bought and will never buy another again. It used a qt. of oil the first two weeks I had it (dealer said that was normal). It continued using oil for about six months when there was a recall due to misposition valve seals. Then the brakes went out. Then went out again. Then again. Just not often enough to qualify for the lemon law. After one of the brake repairs, the brakes went out again the next day (the dealer service dept. had put the pad on backwards.) The engine caught fire at 64,000 miles. I had purchased a 65,000 mile extended warranty. The dealer tried their best to get out of repairing the truck at all. Then after a long fight, they said they would fix it. They called me when it was ready but when I picked it up it had no power at all. They worked on it some more and I picked it up again the power was a little better but when I drove 20 miles and the thermostat still read very cold I took it to another dealer. They checked the engine and it only had compression in four of the six cylinders. I didn't tell them the truck was under warranty until after they diagnosed the problem and told me it needed a new engine. The fire was caused by the truck having the wrong type of antifreeze in it. I had never touched the antifreeze because it was supposed to be the dexron 100,000 mile antifreeze. Using the standard "green" antifreeze will keep the thermostat from working properly and cause the engine to overheat and catch fire. After this dealer replaced the engine I checked the radiator before leaving the parking lot-----it was empty!!! When I told them it was empty, the first thing the mechanic does is start to pour green antifreeze into the truck. Then when I tell him that's wrong he proceeds to pour the orange dexron antifreeze in with the other he's already poured. I told them they would have to drain all the antifreeze and refill it. When I came back to get the truck, I checked the radiator again---they had added the antifreeze but didn't add any water. I just added that myself. Then my driveshaft broke. A small piece of plywood had fallen between the bed and cab of the truck and cut it in half. The driveshaft was made out of aluminum. The cost of a new driveshaft from the dealer was $600. I finally found a used one at S&J auto parts (they're on the web) for under $200 and that included shipping. The brakes have continued to go out occasionally. I've had about 5 master cylinders replaced. I just replaced the proportional valve for the brakes and I'm hoping that will fix the problem for good. All the parts for this model truck are expensive. The driveshaft: $600; The transmission fluid: $12 per qt.;Spark plugs and wires cost nearly $100 (some new type of plug in thing on them). These prices are rediculous. Oh, yeah. The lower A-arm just broke all of sudden at around 37,000 miles. Luckily I was travelling at a low speed. The metal it was made of had to be defective although the dealer claimed it must have been something I did. This has been the absolute worst vehicle I have ever had. I will never buy a new chevy again. I can understand an occassional lemon being produced but the hassle I went through trying to get it repaired made the warranty almost useless. If Chevy had shown some sympathy to the problems I had and atleast acted like they wanted to correct the situation I would probably still be a loyal customer. It seems Chevy can only make vehicles in two categories: Excellent and Awful. Other people have the exact same model s-10 that I do and have had no problems at all. I previosly owned an '89 Beretta - got 176,000 miles on it and the only repair I had to make was the audonator. Currently have a '98 Lumina with 83,000 problem free miles. I'm thinking of swithing to dodge/plymouth products. I hear they make excellent vehicles but their transmissions are awful. I have a '94 Plymouth Acclaim and it has 186,000 miles on it. I had to have the transmission rebuilt at 136,000 miles (got a lifetime warranty on it at Cottman transmissions) and haven't had a problem with it since.
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beanders wrote in msg #26 > and the only repair I had to make was the audonator.... Doncha just hate it when your audonator goes out? I can't find a replacement audonator anywhere! Hans |
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FYI, you know you've been online too long when you can read and understand typos!... The absolute worst is having your disgronificator out of adjustment! Ya need at least one chuckle every day! PF Flyer Host Pickups & News and Views Message Boards |
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