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Pickups Chevrolet S-10 & GMC S15 Sonoma Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions 
2018 messages, Last post on Oct 17, 2006 at 8:12 PM
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Replying to: alvinl (Sep 16, 2006 6:39 am) Using these as clues (and assuming you are not shorting out on multiple speaker wires. ...) I'd say the issue is not in the speakers/doors - but at the Radio (Common Speaker connector is loose or dirty/bad connection - Especially and common return wire for the speakers (depending on series/parallel speaker hook up)). Power and Ground seems ok as it's always on ... Therfore, I'd check the connectors on the back of the unit - possibly unplug and re-plug the connectors. You may be able to get at these from under the dash - but you may have to go through the front (remove the radio/Dash bezel, etc.). Also check to see if you can get there through the Glove box - you may be able to remove the box liner and get in fromthe side. (Be careful ! /you do not want to launch the Air bag !!) Another thought may not apply to your vehile - but the later models also have "SCV" or speed control volume (the faster you go the greater the volume to compensate for road noise.). This may be "Muting" volume if disconnected ?? (Just a thought!) good Luck and tell us wht you find !!! So there are a number of cables for the Radio (Lights (dim at night when the head lights are on), Speed sensor wire, Power, Ground and of couse the speaker outputs.
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Replying to: thazard (Sep 16, 2006 2:01 pm) You've checked a lot - and all looks good (I feel for you ..). You comment on the no spark gave me a thought. If it was going to stop for a problem - it should give an error code - so maybe there is none (to the computer)??. Can you check the "On" wire circuit from the key switch to the computer and the IGN on signal from the computer to the ICM ??? Perhaps it thinks you shut off the key and is just shutting down ??? (i.e. intermittant contact/wire, etc.) |
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Replying to: boyce (Sep 17, 2006 9:15 am) Just continue to drive it for a while (do a few rough roads as well) and occasionlly during your drives cycle the selector switch through each setting (letting it stay at each stop for a few minutes.) It might loosen up. alternatively - you can check for vaccum at the vaccum motors - but you''d have to get under the dash for that - also check the vaccum lines for cracks and splits - especially at the ends.... Get a Chassis manual from GM (or Try alldata.com on the net) and you can see where the vaccum motors are and how to get to them .... |
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Replying to: the_big_al (Jun 27, 2008 3:16 pm) If you get the chance - ask them what about persons like me - I replaced mine, after they did rust out, with after markets (as their's broke and I did not trust their replacements as they did not acknowledeg a problem). Will they swap out/ check ones that were replaced by actual failures and if not replaced by spending big buck at a dealer for their "Not a problem" original parts? Thanks, Canufixit
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Replying to: dkurrle (Sep 09, 2006 7:12 pm) |
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Replying to: herronthree (Sep 07, 2006 4:07 pm) Most all Rear ends whine, the preload (shims) in the pinion grar to the ring gear cause a lot of this issue. If they are not properly "pre loaded" at the factory the whine will get worse as the mileage goes up. This can be fixed by a tech (re set / add/remove shims). Also - per the GM S10 manual - this truck has a sweet spot at about 35 to 45 mph - that's when it's the worse .. You will not hear this when it coasts ... Also as there is little insulation (Noise insulation) in these trucks - the road noise, tranny and rear end noise are a lot more noticable in the cab. If it's real bad, and getting worse - I'd get it checked ... |
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Replying to: canufixit (Sep 17, 2006 12:22 pm) |
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Replying to: canufixit (Sep 17, 2006 12:26 pm)
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Replying to: canufixit (Sep 17, 2006 12:22 pm) |
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Replying to: the_big_al (Jun 27, 2008 3:16 pm)
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