Last post on Oct 17, 2006 at 9:12 PM
You are in the Chevrolet S-10 & GMC S15 Sonoma
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Chevrolet S-10, GMC Sonoma, GMC S-15, Truck
#1962 of 2018 Re: 1996 Chevy S-10 2.2L Constantly dies no error code [thazard]
Sep 16, 2006 (3:01 pm)
Did some more checking today. Seems to be an ignition problem. Holding an inductive spark indicator on a plug wire when it quits, the spark stops abruptly. Does not spark as the engine winds down to a halt. Would think that if it was the injection system that quits, ignition would spark until engine stopped rotating.
Checked voltage to ICM and coils, never looses voltage. Had ICM checked out at auto parts store. Tested four times in a row to make sure unit was warm. Tested good all four times.
Checked coils as per manual with an ohm meter, both checked good.
Checked crank sensor as per manual, checked good.
Plug wire resistance checked within specifications but varied a lot. Plugs looked ok. I will replace them both for good measure.
#1963 of 2018 95 S-10 4cyl 5spd (no air from main vents)
Sep 17, 2006 (10:15 am)
Today windows were fogged up so I switched to defrost setting. After windows cleared I switched back to AC. Noticed I was not feeling cool air. All the air was coming out of defrost vent. Fan was running and the air was cold. Just not coming out of the main vents. The truck has 82000 miles and still runs good. Anyone have any ideas for what might be wrong? Everything had been working fine prior to this. Thanks Bud
#1964 of 2018 Re: Radio on S-10 Plays when it wants to. [alvinl]
Sep 17, 2006 (1:13 pm)
OK - It sounds like you have power to the Unit (all the time) and you have an intermittant speaker (all speakers) issue. I assume the ALL speakers are doing the same thing. ...(if you have 4 speaker system)
Using these as clues (and assuming you are not shorting out on multiple speaker wires. ...) I'd say the issue is not in the speakers/doors - but at the Radio (Common Speaker connector is loose or dirty/bad connection - Especially and common return wire for the speakers (depending on series/parallel speaker hook up)).
Power and Ground seems ok as it's always on ... Therfore, I'd check the connectors on the back of the unit - possibly unplug and re-plug the connectors. You may be able to get at these from under the dash - but you may have to go through the front (remove the radio/Dash bezel, etc.). Also check to see if you can get there through the Glove box - you may be able to remove the box liner and get in fromthe side. (Be careful ! /you do not want to launch the Air bag !!)
Another thought may not apply to your vehile - but the later models also have "SCV" or speed control volume (the faster you go the greater the volume to compensate for road noise.). This may be "Muting" volume if disconnected ?? (Just a thought!)
good Luck and tell us wht you find !!!
So there are a number of cables for the Radio (Lights (dim at night when the head lights are on), Speed sensor wire, Power, Ground and of couse the speaker outputs.
#1965 of 2018 Re: 1996 Chevy S-10 2.2L Constantly dies no error code [thazard]
Sep 17, 2006 (1:17 pm)
You've checked a lot - and all looks good (I feel for you ..). You comment on the no spark gave me a thought. If it was going to stop for a problem - it should give an error code - so maybe there is none (to the computer)??. Can you check the "On" wire circuit from the key switch to the computer and the IGN on signal from the computer to the ICM ??? Perhaps it thinks you shut off the key and is just shutting down ??? (i.e. intermittant contact/wire, etc.)
#1966 of 2018 Re: 95 S-10 4cyl 5spd (no air from main vents) [boyce]
Sep 17, 2006 (1:22 pm)
THEBIGAL had a similar problem - perhaps the diverters are just "Stuck".
Just continue to drive it for a while (do a few rough roads as well) and occasionlly during your drives cycle the selector switch through each setting (letting it stay at each stop for a few minutes.) It might loosen up.
alternatively - you can check for vaccum at the vaccum motors - but you''d have to get under the dash for that - also check the vaccum lines for cracks and splits - especially at the ends.... Get a Chassis manual from GM (or Try alldata.com on the net) and you can see where the vaccum motors are and how to get to them ....
#1967 of 2018 Re: Cable Recall [thebigal]
Sep 17, 2006 (1:26 pm)
If you get the chance - ask them what about persons like me - I replaced mine, after they did rust out, with after markets (as their's broke and I did not trust their replacements as they did not acknowledeg a problem). Will they swap out/ check ones that were replaced by actual failures and if not replaced by spending big buck at a dealer for their "Not a problem" original parts?
#1968 of 2018 Re: 2003 ZR2 idle [dkurrle]
Sep 17, 2006 (1:28 pm)
Lighters occasionally go bad - throw it out and get a new one ...
#1969 of 2018 Re: Transmission/rear end Whining [herronthree]
Sep 17, 2006 (1:34 pm)
Check for some past posts of mine on this suject ... In Summary - if it is your rear end;
Most all Rear ends whine, the preload (shims) in the pinion grar to the ring gear cause a lot of this issue. If they are not properly "pre loaded" at the factory the whine will get worse as the mileage goes up. This can be fixed by a tech (re set / add/remove shims). Also - per the GM S10 manual - this truck has a sweet spot at about 35 to 45 mph - that's when it's the worse ..
You will not hear this when it coasts ... Also as there is little insulation (Noise insulation) in these trucks - the road noise, tranny and rear end noise are a lot more noticable in the cab. If it's real bad, and getting worse - I'd get it checked ...
#1970 of 2018 Re: 95 S-10 4cyl 5spd (no air from main vents) [canufixit]
Sep 17, 2006 (2:24 pm)
Thank you for the information. This is a very low usage vehicle (less than 40 miles per month). Its only used if something won't fit into the car or if the car is in for service. The switch position most likely has not been changed since last winter so there is a good chance the diverter is stuck. If that doesn't work, I'll try Alldata. Thanks again, Bud
#1971 of 2018 Re: Cable Recall [canufixit]
Jun 27, 2008 (4:16 pm)
Actually they addressed that in the letter they sent me. They also included a reimbursement form for which those who had already paid to have them replaced could be reimbursed. It didn't specify if you replaced them yourself or had a dealer or independent shop do it. It just simply said "paid to have them replaced". I would assume then that means you would be able to be reimbursed even though you did the work yourself and used after market parts. I have that form and since I do not need it can offer to send it to you to fill out and send it?? Or they printed a phone # on the bottom of the form -- am I allowed to post it here??