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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions ![]()

2018 messages, Last post on Oct 17, 2006 at 8:12 PM
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I have a 93 Chevy S-10 P/U, extra cab 2.8 5-speed 2wd, my tail lights are pretty bad, if you hit the blinker, they all blink, including the license plate lights, brake lights work, but when night time comes, i turn on the headlights and parking lights and the tail lights shut off and my blinkers do not work in the front or in the back. I NEED HELP!! ive been getting too many headaches. I put new fuses, relays, flashers and bulbs in. I cleaned up the tail light ground and put a new eye-loop on it. All of the bulbs are in the right places too. Can somebody please help me. It would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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Replying to: canufixit (Aug 30, 2006 12:46 pm) It seems to be running just fine. No issues that I can tell. Unfortunately (or maybe that is fortunately since it has over 100k?)it doesn't get driven a whole lot anymore whereas it used to get driven 3-5K a month. I may have put 100 miles on it since I "fixed" it. But so far so good. The A/C works fine and the heater as well. I have taken it on a couple of 20 mile freeway trips with speeds up to 75 MPH and everything seems normal. So it it looks as though the T-stat and a new hose have fixed the problem. Thanks for all the help.
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Replying to: the_big_al (Jun 27, 2008 3:16 pm)
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Replying to: the_big_al (Jun 27, 2008 3:16 pm) My Suggestions on the post you reference are my best advice "in General". What I recommend is that you take to the Dealer (or perhaps ask a couple) and ask their recommendation. They may back up my earlier advise - or - they may suggest another oil change. Providing that they look it over first, decide it has no issues and guarantee the change of oil and filter will not cause an issue - I'd spend the extra dollars they charge (vs a quick lube shop) and have it done at the dealer. I just don't like changing the oil at over 100K unless there is a reason to do so... I belive my manual list the initial change at 60K and then nothing after that is mentioned... The Auto Trans, in my opinion is a fickle part. Providing you do do not cause an issue (overheating the engine/transmision cooling) and don't beat on it - it's still a dice roll - you either have a good one for life - or a bad one. I've run my last few vehicles up to around 160K with only the fist oil change as specificed by the factory ... So go to the Dealer - and let us know what they say - and what you actually do ... Canufixit |
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Does anyone know why my idle would be pretty rough? It idles at about 500k, or a tad higher. Doesnt sound or feel right when just sitting at a stop light. Only has 30000 miles. Any ideas?
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Replying to: dkurrle (Sep 02, 2006 11:34 pm) One quick thought - At nightime in a dark area when it's runnning rough - Open the hood and check to see if you see any sparks jumpoing off the wires (and if you do DO NOT touch these until the engine is down ...). 3-4 years old now - possible a wire is cross shorting or loose on a plug ..??? We need more info ...
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Hi, I have a 1990 chevy s10 and whenever it is put into four wheel drive the tires toe in to the point where it cant be driven (BAD). The truck is lifted by means of torsion keys and new control arms. Does anyone know what could be the problem. Could there be something wrong with the steering components or possibly the balljoints? Thanks alot!
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Replying to: royboy732 (Sep 05, 2006 2:58 pm) Your front end and linkage (Tie rods, Connecting link, Control Arms, etc.) must hold the tires in the specified position. If the tires can toe in and out so it "can't be driven" you have major worn part here. I'd be reluctant to even drive it to a repair shop if it's that bad. So, Push/pull it to a decent alignment shop and have them check out the fron end and give you an estimate - although for it's age the repain my be more thant the truck ... Canufixit |
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Replying to: shaz5 (Jul 07, 2005 8:28 am) if you do it yourself there is going to be a big mess, so get a box and line it with trash bags. this should do the job for the fluid. |
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