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Pickups Chevrolet S-10 & GMC S15 Sonoma Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions 
2018 messages, Last post on Oct 17, 2006 at 8:12 PM
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Replying to: oldpawdad (Aug 26, 2006 10:58 am) Tailgate cables; Mine broke when I was standing on the tailgate (Thankfully I was not handling a heavy object or I could have been seriously hurt.) The Factiory cables are not sealed at the crimp ends - so when the tailgate is shut - water can run down the cable (iniside) and sit inside the cable covering and just rust the cable and you don't even know it .. Dangerous if you ask me ... You should at least "Feel" your cables over its full length and try to fee for rust buldges ... On this site someone posted a link for NAPA (I think) for replacement cables - I bought a set and kept them - and then had to use them !! The cost - I think - was about 15 Each (maybe less) ?? But the b!tch is changing them. You have to remove the latches from the ends of the tailgate (Get inside the tailgae to disassemble the rod linkages), remove the latches and then mill off a pressed in stud to remove the old cables (new pins and E clips are in the NAPA kits.) I got lucky on the install and had not real issues (but you could drop the rods and internal parts in the tailgate if you are not lucky !) and I also have a small milling machine - so it took me only about an hour+ to change these ... But I expect two or more hours for others who have to fudge with the studs and have less tools - and have worse luck. To all - Please at least CHECK your cables !! Regards, Canufixit
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Replying to: leighh (Aug 27, 2006 6:50 pm) My inputs.... And I agree with previouos comments ... "Usually" the Auto transmisison fluid is changed once well before 100K and then left alone - unless there is a real need to change it (i.e. burned or othe issues ..). In fact many of the std repair and fluid shops I know just will not change the oil once it gets well over 100K - because of the issue you are having - "it "was" Ok and now there is an issue " - and the shops just do not want to get caught up in that. (Regardless if the fluid change itself had any connection to the issue - as a transmission with lots of miles could have a many issues happen at any time - and the oil change facility does not want ANY issues being pointed back at them for the little thay make on the fluid changes ....) With that said ... As it "Was" OK - and it started so suddenly - I would suspect the oil change. I'd immedately check the fluid level (On a flat parking area, Engine and Trans Warm - and the dipstick level correclty seated and read - multiple times.) FYI - The amount of the fluid to change depends on the type of fluid change process done (just by draining is different than also changing the fluid in the Torque Converter, etc.) - Regardless - if you check the level properly, nnow that it's been driven a few miles - proper oil level can then be confirmed and possibly excluded as an issue. (If it was driven on very low fluid level - that maybe a cause of your issues as well... The Transmission uses the oil for Pressue, lubrication AND cooling) - Also - does the new oil look and smell OK ?) Secondly - as thebigal and others eluded to - when you change/ do something and then immedately have a problem - I ALWAYS go back to the last thing that was done/changed/fixed, etc and re-check everything again. When you remove the Transmission's oilpan - they are working very close to shifter linkages and vacuum solenoids, etc. as well. Bumping these, cutting/cracking/bending these - or disconnecting these - are all real possibilites and easy to repair. You need to have someone look under the vehicle and around the transmission (top, bottom, sides, etc.) for any loose or broken slit/cracked hoses, Shifter linkage not bent/broken disconnected, etc ... and chack the Engine compartment as well !!! (near the oil fill hole - and check all vacuum hoses !!) Also, I did not like the comment that the old transmission oil smelled burned when changed - it may mean you had a problem already with the transmission - but not necessarilly. Oil old that may have been over worked and possible overheated due to an engine overheat may cause the oil to breakdown smell burned anyway - and if so - it really needs a well deserved change anyway. And Finally - If the above is not the soultion - before I drove it too far (and maybe make it worse) - I'd take it to a reputable shop that will re-change the oil and screen and have them look around the underside as well. They may find an easy fix (i.e. oil pan gasket / screen is incorrect one - or incorreclty installed, foreign matter in the screen (The did not take off all the cellophane wrapper) , etc.) - and they may see a slice in a vacuum hose, etc - and hopefully they basically just charge you for the transmission service (What's that cost now - $100 to $200 at the dealer ??) This would be money well spent if it fixes the problem - and if not - it's not a whole lot of money in todays repair dollars - and you can then decide if it's really the tranny and decide to replace it, trade it in (if possible) or scrap and by another vehicle ... Hope this helps !! (people always call me and say ... Canufixit!!)
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Replying to: canufixit (Aug 28, 2006 6:25 am) |
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Replying to: leighh (Aug 27, 2006 4:29 pm) |
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Replying to: canufixit (Aug 28, 2006 5:07 am)
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Replying to: oldpawdad (Aug 28, 2006 9:36 am) Each Came with new hardware. Just remove the Latch, grind off the rivet - change cable w/ new hardware (Sholder bolt + e Clip). 10.99 ea for a 2002 http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=BK&Part- Number=8195739&Description=Tailgate+Support+Cable |
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Replying to: jeffro07 (Aug 27, 2006 3:53 pm)
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Replying to: flipper3 (Aug 28, 2006 7:30 pm) Mine does something similar - but only when cold at startup. It did this since it was new. The "Dealer said" this was a "start up sequence" when cold. It turns the fan on for a minute or so - to exercise the fan clutch / circuit - and then the computer (knowing the engine is cold) keeps it in lower gears a little longer to, I believe, give you the power at low RPM until it warms up a tad. Usually after a cold start and a very short drive (a few hundred yards or so ) this goes away. I have no issues later at any other time (i.e., high way)speeds). I do not even notice if / when my air compressor kicks in when the engine is warm - but my fan minght kick in when ever I have the AC (or defroster) on - I'd have to confirm.. I'm kinda wondering if your temp sensor /circuit is OK - the computer might think it is in start up Mode all the time and keeping the fan on, keeping you in gear a little longer and of course probably give you some extra fuel (that's normally just gioven at cold engine start) - this might expain the bog, the shifting and the low gas mileage ... By the way - I get 15- 18 MPG in rual driving and about 19 MPG onthe highway (with out A/C or Defroster on). This seemed to be normal for others I polled (I have a 2K2 4.3 ext cab). Just my thought ... Canufixit
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Replying to: canufixit (Aug 29, 2006 5:36 am) |
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Hi, You had overheating problems - I think you were all set - but wanted to ask .... Canufixit
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