Last post on Oct 17, 2006 at 8:12 PM
You are in the Chevrolet S-10 & GMC S15 Sonoma
What is this discussion about?
Chevrolet S-10, GMC Sonoma, GMC S-15, Truck
#1822 of 2018 Re: 4WD Failure [canufixit]
Jul 17, 2006 (4:14 pm)
yep i agree most american cars i have had were waiting to fall apart. My wife had a 1999 Ford Taurus. Replaced the transmission, then the main bearing seal needed replacing, then the wipers would turn on by themselves when you made a left turn. Of course all thsi occures after the warranty ended.
Well The dealer on my Chevy said the dash had to be taken out to get to the TCCM, Bull shit,i found it behind the passenger side kick panel, he just wanst to charg 4 hours of labor for a short job, I do not need 4wheel drive very ofen so i just did waht i was informed to do, Just disconnect it for a few minutes it worked fine for one day. The 4 wheel drive will shift if you put it into neutral and hit the button.
Also the tail gate cables rusted apart. They recalled all the larger trucks but they said the s-10s do not hold the cargo weight as the larger trucks. Its a design flaw, they dipped the STEEL cables in a plastic coating so when it get wet the plastic coating holds the water. The dealership told me to buy a new set. I even complained the the national hwy safety admin
Hell no. I got some galvanized cable and fixed them myself.
#1823 of 2018 Re: 4WD Failure [skyethor]
Jul 18, 2006 (12:05 pm)
Get a load of this ... Site:
You gotta go to the site's "Defect investigations" -and put in Chevy Sonoma (go figure ??)
I've got no notification - have you guys ??
Quote from PAge "
NHTSA Action Number: NHTSA Recall Campaign Number:
Make: CHEVROLET Model: SONOMA
Manufacturer : GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Year : 2002
Date Investigation Opened : April 14, 2005
Date Investigation Closed : May 19, 2006
GENERAL MOTORS IS CONDUCTING A "SPECIAL POLICY" PROGRAM FOR 903,464 OWNERS OF 2000 - 2003 MODEL S/T VEHICLES THROUGH WHICH OWNERS MAY, AT THEIR OPTION, EITHER (1) PERIODICALLY INSPECT THE TAILGATE SUPPORT CABLES INSTALLED IN THEIR VEHICLE AND HAVE THE CABLES REPLACED IF THE CABLE COATING EXHIBITS ANY INDICATIONS OF DAMAGE OR DETERIORATION OR (2) REQUEST THAT THE TAILGATE SUPPORT CABLES BE REPLACED FREE OF CHARGE. GM WILL HONOR ALL REQUESTS BY OWNERS WHO OPT FOR REPLACEMENT WITHOUT QUESTION REGARDLESS OF THE CONDITION OR APPEARANCE OF THE CABLES. GM HAS AGREED TO MAIL REMINDER NOTIFICATIONS TO OWNERS EVERY TWO YEARS UNTIL THE TAILGATE SUPPORT CABLES HAVE BEEN REPLACED OR UNTIL THE VEHICLE IS 12 YEARS OLD. ODI'S INVESTIGATION INDICATES THAT A SIGNIFICANT MAJORITY OF THE REPORTED COMPLAINTS (87%) AND INJURIES (94%) HAVE OCCURRED IN MY 2000 - 2003 S/T VEHICLES
#1824 of 2018 Re: Fuel Sending Unit [vince443]
Jul 19, 2006 (8:40 am)
Yes! And it will kill your battery, too, if you don't catch it. Happened to me on a 1989 S10 4.3.
#1825 of 2018 Re: Fuel Sending Unit [oldpawdad]
Jul 19, 2006 (10:53 am)
What was the Fix ???
#1826 of 2018 2001 chevy s10 ls gas gauge not reading correctly
Jul 21, 2006 (8:25 am)
i just aquired a 2001 chevy s10 single cab and at times the truck wouldnt start for atleast 15 to 20 tries. but the gas gauge reads 1/4th of a tank. when the tank is full i have no problems starting the truck. but after about 230 miles the gauge reads anywhere from 1/4th to 1/2 a tank and i have trouble starting the truck. could it be when the tank goes low on gas that there are lots of sediment that is blocking the fuel pump? could it be that my gas gauge is mis reading? i am perplexed. so i have been refilling the truck with gas after i reach 200 miles to a tank full. but i want to correct this problem because its just anoying. does anyone know what the problem could be and if its a DIY or should i take it to someone.
#1827 of 2018 1996 GMC Sonoma Turn Signals not working
Jul 21, 2006 (4:58 pm)
Recently, my turns signals stoped working all together. They wont blink they wont even come on. I checked my fuse box for the Turn Signal one and that seems to be working. I am thinking its the Flasher located under the steering column but I am wondering if there is one in the Fusible links box under the hood? Can someone help me out with this please? Thanks you
#1828 of 2018 Re: 1996 GMC Sonoma Turn Signals not working [cs_tarheel34]
Jun 27, 2008 (3:16 pm)
there are two sets of fuses - one in the dash and also under the hood. Check for blown fuses there. It is all an electrical connection and the most likely place to the connection to have a problem is where the electrical circuit is weakest. The bulbs being the weakest and most prone to burning out. The next is the fuses. Usually something causes fuses to blow, like a short. I keep blowing fuses in my turn signals every time I hook up a trailer because by wiring harness is frayed and every time I hit metal I blow a fuse. See if there is a blown fuse under the hood in the fuse box on the driver's side. Unscrew the cap holding the box cover in place and there is a fuse locator diagram on the under side. Also a place to keep replacement fuses.
#1829 of 2018 Re: 1996 GMC Sonoma Turn Signals not working [thebigal]
Jul 21, 2006 (7:44 pm)
So what exactly are the fuses under the hood? ARe they the fusible links located in the box under the hood? What wire would that be inside there cause there are about 5 or so?
#1830 of 2018 Re: 1996 GMC Sonoma Turn Signals not working [cs_tarheel34]
Jun 27, 2008 (3:16 pm)
they should be fuses just like those in the dash... in the 96, I am thinking it might be a little different than an '01 like mine but there should be a fuse box under the hood. If the fuses under the hood are good and the bulb is good, than your problem lies elsewhere? Not sure where to go after that since I am not big on the electrical side of things.... (I drive around with a frayed trailer connector )
Jun 27, 2008 (3:16 pm)
Okay here is one that I need help on ..... or maybe it's
My normally perfectly running '01 V6 decided to hicup on me today. On my way home from town the A/C all of a sudden quit blowing cold and then I glanced down at my gauges and my temparature gauge was pegged. I mean pegged as far over as it could go. Prior to the A/C blowing hot (it had been blowing ice cold just moments prior) there had been no sign that the vehicle was running hot and I had just checked my gauges for speed etc ect.... I immediatly pulled over and shut down the vehicle. However it didn't seem to be running abnormally. I got out and there was coolant dripping out from underneath the vehicle. The motor/engine bay didn't feel any warmer than usual. Nor did I see or smell anything unusual aside from the coolant coming from underneath the truck. But the overflow bottle was full. I checked the overflow tube, but it was dry hence the coolant wasn't forced into the overflow bottle and out the overflow tube. The coolant draining out was not coming from there. I would like to note that I have just recently had the radiator tanks in the radiator replaced and so the coolant in the vehicle is less than 6 months old. The vehicle has also never overheated before.
I turned the key on and turned the heater on, but it didn't get warm. I turned the blower on full blast and the temparature all the way to hot. But the air coming out didn't get any warmer than what it would on cold vent on a warm day. Also I noticed that as I moved the temp from cold to hot and back to cold the cold side blew harder than the hot on the same fan speed setting.
I drove the vehicle a couple more miles since it was only about 4 home. But the motor starting clattering so again I immediatly pulled over and shut the vehicle down. Same issues as before. Even while driving the hot air I had coming out the vents didn't get any warmer than vent would. And I had the temp set all the way to hot. This time when I popped the hood I could smell something slightly burnt, but it didn't smell like coolant. Also the air coming out of the vents had a slightly burnt smell to it. It was at this point that my temp gauge dropped back to below normal operating temp. When I turned the key on without starting the vehicle, the temp gauge would spike over to the warmer side than drop down to below normal (also note that my gauges do not do a "spikeing" self test as some new vehicles do They just go set themselves to where they need to... the fuel gauge to it's proper lever, battery, oil pressure and of course the temp.) This is odd because if the vehicle were actually over-heated I would think that the gauge would stay over on the above normal side until it had cooled off sufficiently on it's own. At 100 degrees outside and the motor running, driving down the road to me that is doubtful the gauge would drop so quickly from being pegged to below normal, if indeed it was overheated.
So I started the vehicle. It clattered slightly than ran. I shut it down and did the same thing. It clattered again. When I started it a third time a couple minutes later, it didn't clatter, but coughed and then blew a slight amount of BLACK, not white, smoke that smelled of unburnt fuel. I shut it down and din't start it again after that. By that time my tow vehicle had shown up and we towed it home. On the way home - with the key on, the temp gauge again pegged all the way over 260 and stayed there for the rest of way home. It is now sitting in the driveway till it cools down...
Any thoughts on what could have happened ?