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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions - READ ONLY

2018 messages,  Last post on Oct 17, 2006 at 9:12 PM

You are in the Chevrolet S-10 & GMC S15 Sonoma Forum.

What is this discussion about? Chevrolet S-10, GMC Sonoma, GMC S-15, Truck

Messages Page 162 of 203

#1606 of 2018 Check Engine Light and funny noise by jeff26

Mar 19, 2006 (1:37 pm)

I have a 2001 Chevy S-10 Zr2 with about 48,000 miles.
 
1. Recently my check engine light came on and is staying on. In the past it would shut off or I would disconnect the battery to reset the computer and it would shut off. Of course every time I take it to be checked out, the light goes off and the mechanic can't find out the problem. It doesn't even register the problem in the computer. I will try to got to the mechanic again this week to see what they can find. Any suggestions
 
2. I have recently heard a mid-tone constant hum coming from what I believe is the fuel pump area. It is mid-tone and will sometimes go to a high pitch. Any suggestions
 
3. Any suggestions for maintence I should perform with 48,000 miles to increase the life of my truck. The only things I have done are ( I bought it with 24,000 miles) are regular oil and air filter changes as well as the serpentine belt replaced.
 
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated

#1607 of 2018 Re: Check Engine Light and funny noise [jeff26] by gonogo

Mar 19, 2006 (3:47 pm)

Replying to: jeff26 (Mar 19, 2006 1:37 pm)
On my truck, 99 Sonoma I replace the differential oil and brake fluid about every 30K, 2 WD. I have an automatic and change the transmission oil and filter every 30K also. Oil and filters are cheap compared to major repairs.

#1608 of 2018 Re: Check Engine Light and funny noise [jeff26] by jpf

Mar 19, 2006 (7:07 pm)

Replying to: jeff26 (Mar 19, 2006 1:37 pm)
When the check engine light comes on it usually means something is wrong with the emissions system. I recently heard a groaning noise from under my truck. Although the engine light did not come on, the problem was the catalytic converter. Even though I am not the original owner of the truck and the truck is a 2000 year model, GM covered the repair 100% because the emissions warranty is for 8 years or 80,000 miles. My truck had 78,000 miles. If you believe the problem is with the converter, then have it checked out at a GM dealer. It should be fixed free of charge. As for other maintenance, check out your owner's manual under the severe usage. There you will find the scheduled maintenance for your truck. Good luck.

#1609 of 2018 100K maintenance by the_big_al

Jun 27, 2008 (4:16 pm)

Okay - I am about to break 100K on my '01 2WD ex-cab. 4.3 motor. So far no major problems. Here is the rundown of what has been replaced in 100K and 5 years. A/C compressor at 30K, radiator tanks at 70K, alternator at 70K and rear U-joint at 90K. I would say in that this is pretty good. It gets oil changed every 3K and all fluids were recently changed (except Tranny, but it's on the list).
 
I am about to do the plugs, wires, cap and rotor and would like to know if what would be the best way to go... I have heard a lot hype about the Bosch Platinum 4-tip plugs or even Split-fire, but wondering if I would really see anything signifigant. Or if it would just be best to replace them with AC Delco Platinums. Also what wires should I use??
 
One more question - I have noticed that in the last couple air filter changes I have had to change them every 6K miles. I do a lot of extreme driving so that is not that unusual, but what has been different than before is that they are black when I have changed them and not the usual brown dirty. It's not oily black, but still it's black crud... what would cause this and is it something that needs to be replaced like a PCV valve that is causeing this? Or is it normal?

#1610 of 2018 Re: 100K maintenance [thebigal] by hoodlatch

Mar 22, 2006 (4:59 pm)

Replying to: the_big_al (Jun 27, 2008 4:16 pm)
I've used both Bosch and AC platinum. Either one ran fine. Recently we used Bosch 2-tip that went in a 350 passenger van. They have been performing great. The last wires we change out was OEM ordered on line. By ordering on line, price wise it came out the same and the lengths match up better on OEM verses aftermarket.
 
With all the overtime on maintenance, have you considered cleaning the air defuser block thats up stream of the throttle body?
 
You must be doing some intense driving to need to change the air filter every 6K. Granted my miles are highway, but I usually get 15 - 20K on mine.
 
From what I've been reading of other comments on this forum, the ball joint are prone to go early on some S-10s. It might be a safety move to check them out.
 
Good luck & enjoy

#1611 of 2018 Re: 100K maintenance [hoodlatch] by the_big_al

Jun 27, 2008 (4:16 pm)

Replying to: hoodlatch (Mar 22, 2006 4:59 pm)
LOTS of DRIVING - sometimes 5K a month. Usually around 4K. A lot of highway miles, but also several dirt road miles. Sometimes 20-30 miles one way and then I have to trek that back. In one road trip that will be 1500 miles, about 500 of that will end up on dirt. That could cause the air filter clog up I am experiencing. I've had my 2wd places a 4x4 shouldn't have been
 
Anyway, I'll keep an eye on the ball joints. It could be related but the last S-10 I had I ended up replacing the entire front end at 70K from the tie-rods to the idler arm and pittman arm. I don't think I did the ball joints though.
 
I have replaced the control arm bushing however and when my mechanic did so, he told me everything else looked fine - but that was 20K ago and several rough dirt roads ago as well so I am cognisent of those going bad...
 
I think I'll try the Bosch 2 prong plug and see what it does... Can't be any worse than what I've got right?

#1612 of 2018 Re: 100K maintenance [thebigal] by hoodlatch

Mar 23, 2006 (9:05 am)

Replying to: the_big_al (Jun 27, 2008 4:16 pm)
Wow, that's alot of miles and alot of dirt to eat. I haven't any experience with it but have you checked into the Air Hog kits they advertise?
 
I found out the hard way that on some S-10s to change the plugs on the driver's side its easier to block up the front, remove left front (driver's side) wheel, and go in under the splash flap with 3/8 drive extensions to get to plugs. In the long run it saves time and a few choice words trying to get around the steering shaft and other interference.
 
Think safety,
Cheers

#1613 of 2018 Re: GMC Sonoma ZR2 Rattle [dkbryant] by dkbryant

Mar 23, 2006 (12:07 pm)

Replying to: dkbryant (Mar 16, 2006 9:31 am)
I found the problem. Worn out shock bushings on the front left. Most likely bad from day one. The shock is still good and I am installing new bushings.

#1614 of 2018 Re: jpf [canufixit] by jae5

Mar 23, 2006 (4:46 pm)

Replying to: canufixit (Mar 16, 2006 7:04 am)
Sorry for the delay. Been traveling and not checking in.
 
As guessed, it was air in the system. Basically the facility didn't get the last of the air out after the second time. Once I purged it, refilled, all is well.
 
Now if I can just solve that driver's side window dilemma...

#1615 of 2018 Clicking behind steering wheel, hood latch cable, air bag light by yousef

Mar 23, 2006 (9:59 pm)

I have a 1997 4 cyl Sonoma with a few problems: 1. There is an annoying loud clicking sound every two seconds, e.g. at 60 mph, that is coming from behind the steerring wheel and in the instrument cluster area. Any ideas? 2. The hood release cable broke at the handle inside the cab. Is there an easy method of replacement? 3. The red Air Bag light at the upper left corner of the instrument cluster is on. Anyone know why and how I can fix the problem? Thanks, and salaam (peace) to all. Yousef / Northern California

Messages Page 162 of 203

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