Last post on Oct 17, 2006 at 8:12 PM
You are in the Chevrolet S-10 & GMC S15 Sonoma
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Chevrolet S-10, GMC Sonoma, GMC S-15, Truck
Dec 17, 2005 (1:22 pm)
The brake light on my 1995 Chevy S10 is always on, I checked the brake fluid and its ok, however I added some more till it almost spilled, but it didn't turned off. I've noticed that when the temperature is low in the morning the light tuns off but after driving a while and the car gets hot it turns on again!!! What could be the cause?? Do anybody can give me a solution?
#1393 of 2018 Re: 2000 Chevy S-10 -- reliable truck? [pattyjw59]
Jun 27, 2008 (3:16 pm)
Here is what I will tell you about my truck - I am on my second S-10 in 5 years. Before you let that scare you let me let you know why I went with a 2nd S-10 after the first had problems? I bought a '95 with 70k on the clock and I should have shopped around more - it was beat to snot when I got it. It was not taken care of hence I had several problems right off the bat. I replace the entire front end, the clutch and the starter all before 75k. This I believe was not due to the build quality, but the maintanence issues. At 100k I traded in the truck due to a failed fuel pump and a severe ignition problem that would not allow the truck to be turned off with the ignition switch. (This was all related to faulty workmanship by the fellows who put in my clutch. To save space as this is already getting long I will leave it at that. Yes the fellows who put in my clutch managed to screw with the electrical system and one screw-up compounded and it's all downhill from there). Anyway, I bought a 2001 S-10 4.3 Ex-cab with 26k miles and have been fairly trouble free since.
The S-10 pickup is a fairly solid truck. If you are looking at buying one make sure it has the 4.3 motor. the 2.2 is a piece of junk good only for Cavilier it was made for as it is junk too. The 4l60E Auto tranny they put in them is a fairly stout transmission. It is basically the same that is put in the full size trucks and the auto Camaros and Firebirds and even the Corvette is a varient of the 4l60E. So it is touch enough to do duty. I wouldn't be too shy about 40K but check to make sure all the fluids have been changed - inlcuding diff and tranny. Immediately change the coolant unless it was also recently changed. The Dex-Cool is a nightmare. I just had my radiator retanked (80k)(may have been coolant related). The third door is notorious for busting the latch and the seat levers also strip out fairly easily. My latch has broken twice, but my seat levers are fine. Others have also noted that the 4.3 will leak oil from the oil cooler lines around 70K but I have yet to see that on mine. I also know that the 4x4 is notorious for having bad ball joints. Since mine is 2wd I don't have that problem. The 4x4 also has a problem with the oil filter connection under the front bumper - every one that I ever serviced on the oil change line leaked.
Other than those minor things, you really can't go wrong with an S-10. But I would really recomend that the motor be the 4.3 and also be Ex-cab as it gives more room without getting too big. Standard or Auto tranny is your preference - both trannys used were pretty stout... hopes this helps. A
#1394 of 2018 Re: BRAKE LIGHT [argonzalezm]
Dec 18, 2005 (1:24 pm)
Apply the parking brake. If the light gets brighter, there's an ABS system problem.
And turn off your bold type.
#1395 of 2018 Re: again [ginasmuffins]
Dec 19, 2005 (10:44 am)
If it's slow to start, you might want to have the battery & starter checked. Pretty simple to do. I would also suggest having the entire starter/charging system tested. The
Come to think of it, in the fall time there would be times where I'd turn the ignition and NOTHING happened. Then I'd try it again and it would work. One time I had to turn it about 6 times and I was getting worried.
You should've had it checked out then. Anyway, when the truck would do this, what happened to the dash lights, did they go out. Did you notice, if the door was opened, the dome light going out or getting very dim? Also, it sounds as though the starter solenoid may not have been engaging. Could've been from a weak battery, a sticking / bad solenoid or a heat soak condition.
I don't believe the '91 fuel pump will work in the 98, different pressure requirements. Why do you ask? Did this person who know who'll do it for $75 suggest or say they have a '91 pump that would do the trick? If so, run from them too: never put in a part someone just happens to have laying around, or would probably work.
In any event, you really need to take the vehicle to a place where the people are knowledgeable because if you don't, you'll be out of more $$
#1396 of 2018 Re: Long term problems after water in engine? [Mr_Shiftright]
Dec 19, 2005 (1:50 pm)
Well, lucky is a relative term now.
Engine starts up fine, though it seems stuck in a high idle, around 1500 where it was usually around 900. Also, went to drive it and once I got up to speed - 45 mph - started having some issues with the tranny.
It may seem like a dumb question, but could I have gotten water into the tranny? I checked the fluid and it appears there is more fluid in there, but I can't really tell. The fluid color is good since I just had it flushed not four months ago. I plan on taking it to a shop, so any thoughts you may have beforehand would be greatly appreciated.
#1397 of 2018 Re: Long term problems after water in engine? [bigbutr]
Dec 19, 2005 (2:15 pm)
Every automatic transmission has an atmospheric vent. If the vehicle was partially submerged, there's probably water in the trans. Considering that the adhesive which holds the friction facings on trans clutches and bands is water soluble, it'd be a good idea to have the trans flushed ASAP.
#1398 of 2018 Re: Long term problems after water in engine? [bigbutr]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Dec 19, 2005 (3:08 pm)
Well lucky in that you had a GREAT chance of hydraulic locking, which basically means all your connecting rods would be bent and your engine would seize.
yeah, you'd better flush the transmission, too.
#1399 of 2018 Re: Long term problems after water in engine? [Mr_Shiftright]
Dec 19, 2005 (6:53 pm)
Well, I had heard of dangers of getting water in an engine since I was a previous owner of a Jeep CJ-7, so I didn't keep trying to turn it over once I realized what had happened. That in itself probably saved me from a major repair bill. Now I'm praying that there's nothing serious with the tranny. Thanks for all the input. I'll let you know what happens.
#1400 of 2018 Re: Long term problems after water in engine? [bigbutr]
Dec 20, 2005 (4:45 pm)
Just got off the phone with the AAMCO people and they said that a bunch of codes came up when they hooked up the diagnostics tool. Said it was going to take 'hours' of diagnosing (ie, hope you have a hefty pocketbook) to figure out because of all of the sensors involved. Also, I might have to replace the PCM (about $800 was what he said and that didn't include all of the other charges).
Maybe I'm just being naive because the engine runs fine, but could there be one main problem which would cause multiple error codes? I'll be going by in the morning to get a list of them since I found another site which tells what each code represents. I don't want to tell them how to do their job, but I get the feeling they see me as a cash cow when something 'relatively' simple could be causing the problems. Any ideas?