Last post on Oct 17, 2006 at 8:12 PM
You are in the Chevrolet S-10 & GMC S15 Sonoma
What is this discussion about?
Chevrolet S-10, GMC Sonoma, GMC S-15, Truck
#110 of 2018 2001 gmc sonoma paint problems
Sep 06, 2001 (7:52 pm)
i would like to here from any one that has a 2000 or 2001 truck that has paint problems. My truck has 6000 km on it and the paint is cracking from nothing more than tree sap! the dealer says they will paint the affected areas but i think the paint is the same on the whole truck ...this sucks. They also say it is only covered for 1 year what if anything can i do?
Help... dave in BC Canada
#111 of 2018 eackerman and hemihead
Sep 12, 2001 (9:50 am)
I have a '97 S10, 4 cyl, 5 spd, x-cab with 35K miles. What other problems have you had with your trucks and do you have any maint. suggestions? I've done routine maint. so far and have had no problems.
#112 of 2018 buying an s-10
Sep 12, 2001 (2:09 pm)
hearing all this and seeing Edmunds and other sites saying "spotty build quality" and such, have made me waver on my choice of a new s-10...are they really that bad?
let me explain. i am looking for a new truck...a stripped down one which i can get great mileage and be able to do work on my house with and transport hunting and fishing supplies. i also commute quite a ways and i tend to hang onto vehicles and drive them until they sputter and kill themselves in the driveway for fear of going yet another mile.
so my choices are Ford Ranger with the new 4 cylinder, and the s-10 with the 2.2.
i want a manual tranny, air conditioning, cloth seats, and maybe a CD player. any suggestions or preferences? i could also use info regarding which engine is best.
#113 of 2018 Blowing HVAC fuse #9 in 2001 S10
Sep 21, 2001 (5:45 am)
Has anyone had a problem with fuse #9 in the fuse panel blowing, it controls the HVAC or climate controls. Mine just started doing this at 7,000 miles. It is not blowing immediately, but can take anywhere from 5 minutes or longer to blow. The dealer has it now, but I'm just wondering if anyone else had this problem and what was done to solve it, because right now I'm not too thrilled with what one service rep was trying to suggest to me.
Sep 21, 2001 (5:58 am)
if they have a spotty build quality then my dads 92 is an exception. Just turned 100K on wed.
Truck has been great. It should easily go 100K more+
Sep 21, 2001 (8:22 am)
2001 did have an issue with shorted wiring in the HVAC system.
#116 of 2018 ryanbab...
Sep 21, 2001 (6:14 pm)
i have a 93 s-10 which has given me no problems...i meant the new version...1994 and on.
#117 of 2018 2001 Xtreme or ZQ8 Susp Pkg Vibratrions
Sep 24, 2001 (7:40 am)
Have a 2001 Chevy Xtreme S-10 Ext Cab pickup that develops a vibration that you feel in the seat. The truck has only 700 miles on the odometer, a 4.3 L V6, automatic transmission and the Xtreme sport package. The vibration usually begins to occur at approx 50 mph and will continue to occur at all speeds between 50 and approx 64 mph. At 65 mph the vibration will diminish tremendously if not completely.
There is no vibration felt in the steering wheel at all regardless of speed. Less than 50 mph the ride is smooth and vibration free. The vibration does vary in intensity at times. A first reaction is that a tire must be out of balance. Other ideas were that a wheel lug nut was loose but none were loose.
I had a reputable tire shop examine the vehicle and remove and rebalance all four wheels and tires. Two of the wheels needed rebalancing and .5 oz was added. The other two were fine. The wheels that were originally on the rear were moved to the front. There was no change in the vibration and its’ characteristics.
The Chevy dealer would not check the tire balance at first because it did not have enough miles on it. They said carriers cause flat spots in tires during the chaining process as the vehicles are transported. Chevy will not authorize a dealer to balance tires until they have over 500 - 700 miles on them.
I have had suggestions (from other than the dealer) there could be a problem with the alignment of the driveshafts or another problem since the ext cab has two driveshats and a carrier bearing.
The dealer has now had the truck for a week. They have told me the vibration is normal for this performance oriented suspension. I disagree. I refused to take the truck back from the dealer. They had a Chevy service rep look at it last Friday and say they now feel it is a tire problem. They will let me know in a couple of more days after another dealer rechecks the tire balances with a special "road vibration balancer".
The dealer said they used an "electronic vibration analyzer" which registers vibrations in some type of electrical term of measurement. The installed another set of wheels and tires from another vehicle and the machine registered a 2/3 drop in vibration. That is the reason for the additional dealers involvement with the "road vibrations balancer". They did not invite me to stop by to drive the truck with the other tires so I have no personal experience of any difference.
Any suggestions or information will be greatly appreciated in that this is a problem that not only makes the truck uncomfortable to drive but also brings safety into question if there is something wrong that could eventually contribute problems to controlling the vehicle.
#118 of 2018 Noticable vibrations NOT passed through the steering wheel..
Sep 24, 2001 (7:05 pm)
Here's a self-diagnosis suggestion:
1. Drive the truck as you normally would, and as soon as the vibration starts, shift the transmission from O-D (overdrive) which looks like a "D" on the indicator, to the "3" position. This will take the transmission out of overdrive. IF the vibration goes away, the vibration is in one likely place. If it continues, there are two other likely sources.
A. If the vibration goes away when you shift from D to 3, the vibration may be generated by the torque converter or the lock-up solenoid for the converter in the transmission. The dealer can verify this by using a Snap-On Scanner with the proper cartridge for your truck. On the scanner, which should be plugged into the diagnostic connector while the truck is being driven, the relay that engages the lock-up torque converter will be going into and out of lock. The tech can clearly see this while driving the truck with the scanner on the right diagnostic screen. This may sound like gobbldy-gook to you, but a good transmission tech will know what this all means.
B. Second possibility is the vibration is in the Y-pipe or the exhaust pipe between the Y-pipe and the catalytic converter. I know it sounds stupid, but I know of two full-sized Chevy trucks that had a similar vibration, and it was somehow related to the exhaust system. Not sure why--maybe the factory made the wrong bend in the pipe somewhere and it is transmitting a vibration through the frame and motor mounts.
C. Third possiblilty--the drive shaft. This procedure must be done CAREFULLY in a shop with another mechanic. DO NOT do this in your driveway! Using a frame lift, raise the truck's wheels a foot or so off the ground. Making sure the lift doesn't rub the wheels anywhere, have someone get in the truck, start it, put it in drive and accelerate it CAREFULLY. The truck will speed up easily because the wheels are off the ground, so don't have someone gun it hard, but speed up gradually. While this is happening, you are under the truck, clear of any moving parts. Watch the driveshaft while this is going on. If it seems to stay in the same horizontal position as it rotates, it is likely balanced. If it seems to be jumping up and down while it rotates, it is out of balance. Either it lost a balance weight that was originally welded on it at the factory, or it wasn't balanced properly in the first place. If, while spinning, the drive shaft doesn't appear to be perfectly straight, then it could have been damaged while being shipped from the factory.
Good luck--and let me know what you find out!
#119 of 2018 1996 S-10 Coolant Problem, Overheated, cooked the lifters.
Oct 01, 2001 (12:12 am)
My 1996 S-10 4.3 had the sludgey Dexron orange problem. Different opinions from several people as to switching to green stuff, but after the second overheating problem, all 12 lifters needed to be replaced, thank you Warranty Gold. The dealer switched the coolant to green
stuff after doing the expensive acid wash routine per the service bulletin.
I first noticed the sludge forming in the filler/overflow tank at about 50K and it first overheated at about 70K. (The dealer originally said the sludge was no problem!).
After the repaired lifters about 4K ago, no problems. Green stuff looks clean still.