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Chrysler 300M

26363 messages,  Last post on Nov 03, 2009 at 2:51 AM

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#26344 of 26363 Passenger Side Window by scorpiosr61 Jun 12, 2009 (7:15 am)
Hello: Has anyone had the problem with the front passenger side window. I can use the button to make the window go down, but it has to be rolled back up from the drivers side. Is it a single fuse or anything like that ? Can I repair this? Replies to this message: coolrunning (Jun 12, 2009 9:32 pm)
#26345 of 26363 Windows sticking or not rolling up or down by rogjack6112 Jun 12, 2009 (7:25 am)
I have a 99 Concorde and 300M and over the last 10 yrs the windows have been a problem. I have learned it can be the master switch or the individual switch. Most of the time however, if you have someone operate the switch key on, and at the same time bang on the mid inner door moulding the window will operate. Try it. Hit hard. Good Luck!
#26346 of 26363 Re: Passenger Side Window [scorpiosr61] by coolrunning Jun 12, 2009 (9:32 pm)
Replying to: scorpiosr61 (Jun 12, 2009 7:15 am) Mine failed under warranty. It as the master switch. All they did was replace the switch and the problem went away.
#26347 of 26363 Re: 300m trouble starting on occasion. [linspro] by joshyfromokc Jun 20, 2009 (1:25 pm)
Replying to: linspro (May 21, 2009 2:42 pm) I am having simular problems. The car will not start. Replaced the battery and the ignition switch and $160.00 later still wont start. Im thinking maybe starter now. Used to crank 1 time out of 20 and i have not been able to start it at all now. Inside lights and everything work in on position. All i get is a single click and no start. I really do hate this car. Just replacing the battery is a task. Lets make them pull the car apart to replace or check battery connections. I have no idea if the starter is even accessible. Every time i take it to a Chrysler dealership its 2000 plus. Mostly labor on pulling car apart for simple stuff in sure. Any ideas what to check next?
#26348 of 26363 Starter Trouble by coolrunning Jun 22, 2009 (12:45 pm)
I remember having a "one click" adventure with a starter on a Ford Mustang that turned out to be a burned solenoid. They eventually wear out, usually before the starter. most folks end up replacing both because of the miles, age, etc. for reliability in the future. If you have replaced the ignition switch and battery already, can you verify you are getting current to the starter? There is usually a single cable running down to the starter that may be grounding out on the exhaust manifold or it may be burned. If you drive on salty roads, the electrical connection could be corroded enough to prevent the starter from getting enough current to operate. I appreciate your efforts to solve what should be a simple problem. I agree, these cars are not the easiest to work on. I don't think they were designed with owner repairs in mind. But, I don't think any makes or models are easy to work on anymore. The more stuff they fit under the hood, the more obstructed everything becomes. I recently changed out a power steering pump, and had to spend the first 2 hours just taking apart other stuff that was in the way! I don't charge $80.00 an hour for labor, though. It is worth the effort if you can do it. The cars are so low to ground you have to put them up on a lift or jack stands to even get under them to look at anything. Be careful.
#26349 of 26363 Starter Replacement 2002 300M by wgranville Jul 08, 2009 (7:14 am)
I am trying to remove the starter but cannot seem to get access to the top mounting bolt. I can feel the nut with my hands but I cannot seem to get a wrench or rachet on it.....it feels like it is being blocked. Is there some procedure for getting this off??? I read an advance manual and it does not indicate anthing..... HELP!! Very frustrating
#26350 of 26363 1999 300m transmission by clotiii Jul 12, 2009 (10:32 am)
167,000 miles. Have had no transmission problems or speedometer problems. Yesterday, backed out. Put in Drive and felt a "slip", transmission went into 2nd gear and speedometer quit working. Transmission will not go in 1st or 3rd, only 2nd. Is the transmission shot? Has anyone else experienced this.--thanks Replies to this message: 300maximilien (Jul 15, 2009 10:36 am) coolrunning (Jul 22, 2009 6:55 am)
#26351 of 26363 Re: 1999 300m transmission [clotiii] by 300maximilien Jul 15, 2009 (10:36 am)
Replying to: clotiii (Jul 12, 2009 10:32 am) This is most likely caused by a bad output speed sensor on the transmission. It is a $20 part from the dealer and can be installed by a novice in 20 minutes Access on teh drivers side of the tranny.
#26352 of 26363 Re: 1999 300m transmission [clotiii] by coolrunning Jul 22, 2009 (6:55 am)
Replying to: clotiii (Jul 12, 2009 10:32 am) What a great car! If the car defaulted into the "limp mode" and will not shift out of second gear, there is definitely something telling the transmission computer to do it. Mine did thiswhen my cam sensor went bad. It had nothing to do with the transmission. It is the default mode than alerts you of a more serious problem. By keeping you in second gear, it allows you to limp it along to the shop, and it forces you to fix the car. However, considering the high mileage, you may actually have a transmission failure in the works. You sure got your money's worth already!
#26353 of 26363 Chrusler 300 stuck in Park by dano853 Sep 13, 2009 (1:37 pm)
No its not linkage under the vehicle or strain on the steering. We had to disassemble the shift lever assembly, which also required removing the front and rear screws of the console and raising it in order to have enough clearance to remove the shift assembly. After removing electrical connections and disconnecting the locking cable and the shift cable. we pryed the housing apart at the 3 clips on the bottom. As it turns out, there is a small spring which equalizes the tension on the component which the locking cable inserts into. This component is a smal PINK plastic piece directly under the PARK position. On one side is an arnm that the end of the locking cable fits into. On the other side is a small hook which holds one looped end of the tension spring. At least there used to be a hook. No hook= no spring= no tension= no shift unlock= can't get out of park! Tommorow we will find out what part is available to fix it or if we will be forced to purchase an entire assembly

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