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Chrysler 300M

26365 messages,  Last post on Nov 30, 2009 at 7:40 PM

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#26340 of 26365 My M by cnm May 28, 2009 (7:02 pm)
I have an '02 300M, bought used with 22k mi, just recently turned 131k mi. I can relate to many of the problems people had with this car. Latest issue was a loud, constant tapping noise from the engine but I think I finally got it resolved after pouring in a bottle of Rislone, runs much quieter now. Engine light is also constantly on with a code relating to an EGR leak of some kind. Passenger side door handle is broken and windows squeal when opening and closing. Car is very easy to work on though. Work I've performed myself so far are oil/filter changes, spark plugs, brake pad & rotor replacement, headlight/brake light bulb replacement, inner tie rod bushings, timing belt/waterpump and acc belts & pulleys. And after a nice wash and wax it's still one of the sharpest looking cars on the road. Replies to this message: coolrunning (Jun 01, 2009 9:28 am)
#26341 of 26365 Re: Fear not [linspro] by coolrunning Jun 01, 2009 (9:20 am)
Replying to: linspro (May 26, 2009 4:00 am) It's amazing ignition switches last as long as they do when you consider how many times they get used. Just running a few errands on my day off, I counted 12 times in one day that I used the ignition switch. Imagine if you did that every day for about ten years! Like anything mechanical/electrical, it will eventually wear out. My replacement cost was under $50.00 (aftermarket), and it took about two hours to change it out on one of my cars. The OEM Chrysler part was on backorder, so I just bought one from NAPA Auto Parts that is probably as good if not better. One tip: pay close attention to how everything comes apart on the steering column. It fits like a puzzle, and can really confuse you if you try to reassemble the pieces out of reverse sequence... and it simply will not go back together if it is wrong. It was a little frustrating for a while, but it was sure satisfying to finally fix the problem myself. You cannot tell if your switch is worn out by wiggling the key. That just tests the integrity of the lock. The actual switch is electrical and the contacts are inside a metal case that you cannot access. It must be replaced if the contacts are burned or worn out and not making solid contact. It can be tested by a competent technician, but he also should be ale to pinpoint the exact problem in the first place. It may be something else altogether, but I was surprised to find in my case, that the ignition switch was failing.
#26342 of 26365 Re: My M [cnm] by coolrunning Jun 01, 2009 (9:28 am)
Replying to: cnm (May 28, 2009 7:02 pm) Wow! It sounds like you are your own mechanic. I only attempt tasks I am sure i can do properly, and pay someone else for the rest. I have owned a 1999 300M and a 2003 300M Special. The 300M is one of the most beautiful cars ever built, and I wish they had never quit making them. It would have been nice if they could have made the truck a little bigger and found a way to squeeze a 5.7L HEMI under the hood and make it a rear wheel drive. Since they didn't, I ended up buying two identical 300C Heritage Editions loaded with all the fun stuff. I love them, but I miss my 300M's.
#26343 of 26365 Accelaration and noise issues by nout Jun 09, 2009 (4:34 am)
Good Morning,   New to these forums but have reading thru them. In short, my 2001M has 108k miles. One time on the expressway, I hit 40mph, and it began to drop down to non acceleration. Cruising to the shoulder, my M began to emit grey smoke and leak (red) transmission fluid. I shut it down, when the car was restarted at a shop, it made a loud sort of rattling sound which seem to be on the passenger side. Until this point there was Never any loud rattling noise from my car. The fluids were check and (as I knew) the mechanic said everything looked clean; however, my trans fluid looked to be overfilled/too much fluid. Additionally, the engine codes were checked and seem to be locked and/or reset such that they were not able to get a diagnostic reading.   The shop said they "thought" it was the engine becuz of the noise but they couldn't determine this for sure given the locked/reset codes. An army who did simple look over, recommended getting all the little stuff checked--hoses, sensor, pump--and that it was definitely a trans issue given the non-acceleration but the engine just locked up becuz of this issue.   Any info or assistance you can offer would be intensely appreciated! Many thanks, in advance for your efforts.
#26344 of 26365 Passenger Side Window by scorpiosr61 Jun 12, 2009 (7:15 am)
Hello: Has anyone had the problem with the front passenger side window. I can use the button to make the window go down, but it has to be rolled back up from the drivers side. Is it a single fuse or anything like that ? Can I repair this? Replies to this message: coolrunning (Jun 12, 2009 9:32 pm)
#26345 of 26365 Windows sticking or not rolling up or down by rogjack6112 Jun 12, 2009 (7:25 am)
I have a 99 Concorde and 300M and over the last 10 yrs the windows have been a problem. I have learned it can be the master switch or the individual switch. Most of the time however, if you have someone operate the switch key on, and at the same time bang on the mid inner door moulding the window will operate. Try it. Hit hard. Good Luck!
#26346 of 26365 Re: Passenger Side Window [scorpiosr61] by coolrunning Jun 12, 2009 (9:32 pm)
Replying to: scorpiosr61 (Jun 12, 2009 7:15 am) Mine failed under warranty. It as the master switch. All they did was replace the switch and the problem went away.
#26347 of 26365 Re: 300m trouble starting on occasion. [linspro] by joshyfromokc Jun 20, 2009 (1:25 pm)
Replying to: linspro (May 21, 2009 2:42 pm) I am having simular problems. The car will not start. Replaced the battery and the ignition switch and $160.00 later still wont start. Im thinking maybe starter now. Used to crank 1 time out of 20 and i have not been able to start it at all now. Inside lights and everything work in on position. All i get is a single click and no start. I really do hate this car. Just replacing the battery is a task. Lets make them pull the car apart to replace or check battery connections. I have no idea if the starter is even accessible. Every time i take it to a Chrysler dealership its 2000 plus. Mostly labor on pulling car apart for simple stuff in sure. Any ideas what to check next?
#26348 of 26365 Starter Trouble by coolrunning Jun 22, 2009 (12:45 pm)
I remember having a "one click" adventure with a starter on a Ford Mustang that turned out to be a burned solenoid. They eventually wear out, usually before the starter. most folks end up replacing both because of the miles, age, etc. for reliability in the future. If you have replaced the ignition switch and battery already, can you verify you are getting current to the starter? There is usually a single cable running down to the starter that may be grounding out on the exhaust manifold or it may be burned. If you drive on salty roads, the electrical connection could be corroded enough to prevent the starter from getting enough current to operate. I appreciate your efforts to solve what should be a simple problem. I agree, these cars are not the easiest to work on. I don't think they were designed with owner repairs in mind. But, I don't think any makes or models are easy to work on anymore. The more stuff they fit under the hood, the more obstructed everything becomes. I recently changed out a power steering pump, and had to spend the first 2 hours just taking apart other stuff that was in the way! I don't charge $80.00 an hour for labor, though. It is worth the effort if you can do it. The cars are so low to ground you have to put them up on a lift or jack stands to even get under them to look at anything. Be careful.
#26349 of 26365 Starter Replacement 2002 300M by wgranville Jul 08, 2009 (7:14 am)
I am trying to remove the starter but cannot seem to get access to the top mounting bolt. I can feel the nut with my hands but I cannot seem to get a wrench or rachet on it.....it feels like it is being blocked. Is there some procedure for getting this off??? I read an advance manual and it does not indicate anthing..... HELP!! Very frustrating

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