Last post on Nov 19, 2012 at 4:58 PM
You are in the Chrysler 300M
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Chrysler 300M, Sedan
#26332 of 26385 Re: Check Engine light [whatsgood]
May 05, 2009 (3:44 pm)
Hi my husband bought me a 2003 300m special last year for my birthday! I loved the car at first, drove great, plus fast and its beautiful; but then started hating it too cuz of its issues. My check engine lite started coming on also plus at 2500 rpm its would act like it had a bad cough. I've gotten a couple of code of P0340 and P0344 the past few days. My brother-in-law is a mechanic at Chrysler so he's going to take a look at it for me he thinks its the cam relay but is going to run tests. As soon as I get the results I'll come post them, hopefully it'll help someone else out.
#26333 of 26385 Re: Check Engine light [n2naskar88]
May 06, 2009 (4:26 pm)
Ok just got my 2003 300m special back. These were the issues I was having; Check engine light on, cranks & won't start at times, bogs down on accell at 2500rpms, dies while driving, dies at stops. I received 2 fault codes on my odometer; P0344 - cam shaft position sensor circuit. P0340 - cam shaft position sensor intermittent. He performed fuel pressure test 59PSI fuel pressure is good need to replace the Cam Sensor. I hope this information is of some help to some of you.
#26334 of 26385 Re: Check Engine light [n2naskar88]
May 11, 2009 (9:54 pm)
My 2004 300m Special had the same exact trouble at about 77,000 miles. The cam sensor was replaced and all problems were resolved. I didn't even know what a cam sensor was until then. It apparently is part of the system that replaced what we knew as the distributor. The cam sensor counts rpms and relays the count to a computer that tells the high energy ignition when and where to fire. When the cam sensor begins to go blind, nothing works right. The symptoms where all the same. The system goes into what they refer to as "the limp mode", allowing you to limp the car into a repair shop at low speed. I don't know if all cars made after 2000 no longer have distributors, but the electronics that replaced them are not nearly as durable or inexpensive. My cam sensor replacement job was $280.00. I could have replaced a distributor cap and rotor for under $15.00, or the entire distributor for under $80.00. Those were the days...
#26335 of 26385 Long timer, saying 'Hello'
May 20, 2009 (2:10 pm)
Well, I decided to drop by and say hi. It's been a while. My warm hello's to bigmike5, tayl0rd, laurasdada and everyone else that has been on this forum since '05 when I joined.
I sold my '02 Chrysler 300M and got my mom into a 2008 Infiniti G35 Sedan w/ Premium & Sport. I got fed up with the service Chrysler was offering and am glad the local dealership is going out of business. It's been long overdue. Before purchasing the G35, they forgot to put oil in the transmission while performing valve body work under the extended warranty. After almost costing me my life (thank God my mother didn't pick it up from the dealership) and refusing to give a new transmission until I got a lawyer, I finally got rid of the car.
I'm not trying to rock the boat but I will never purchase an American car again in my life. I've been patriotic enough .
#26336 of 26385 Re: Check Engine light [coolrunning]
May 20, 2009 (5:02 pm)
I am another old regular from 04-07, just looking at the other posting by alcatraz above this one, so far I am satisfied with my dealer though. My 04 300M has been doing very well at 55000 mis. My wife usually drives it although I tend to use it for summer road trips since it is much more fun than my 07 Jeep GC (yes I have for 20 years been a Chrysler guy, generally pretty satisfied, and I hope some sort of Chrysler Fiat union continues their better models). Anyway, my reply here relates to what seems to be a 3.5L trending problem with these cam sensors. I have only had THREE things act up on this car in over 5 years other than normal maintenance of course, and now out of the blue our 2nd cam sensor failure. I luckily have the 7/70 max care and got a couple other things done so the $100 deductible is not a problem, I am just thinking will it go again in 3 years -after- the 7/70 runs out? Here for reference is my earlier post on this forum and despite what I said then after 30 months I now have concerns it could happen again!
#598 First failure in 30 mons - cam sensor chk eng lite by naatz1');">naatz1 Sep 21, 2006 (7:37 pm)
.....I had the check engine light come on about a day or so after filling with gas, it would go away after a few engine on/off cycles AFTER tightening the GAS CAP. So I was sure it was the "gas cap thing", but the dealer insisted they needed to check it out. Sure enough, it was a bad (intermittent?) cam sensor problem & they replaced the sensor, totally coincidental about the gas cap even though it did that 3 times. Both my wife and I had it lurch/stumble once each so I was suspicious something worse was amiss, I guess the dealer had the correct hunch on this one. First real fail in 30 months & 29,000 miles since new, if I go another 30 mons w/o anything I will feel just fine!
#26337 of 26385 300m trouble starting on occasion.
May 21, 2009 (2:42 pm)
Hi, my 1999 300m has been giving me trouble starting at times. It will run perfect and then out of no where it wont start. After trying sometimes 5 or up to 30 times, it will start again.when the key is turned it doesnt turn over.Then it will fire up.At first i had the cable ends replaced then it seemed to be fine . FOR AWHILE. then started doing same thing. Now im afraid to drive it. Anybody help. Maybe the starter?
May 25, 2009 (9:53 am)
If it was the starter, it would happen all the time. If your car has over 100,000 miles on it, it is likely the ignition switch. The electrical contacts wear out and the switch only works when it can make good contact to fire off the ignition system. Sometimes, the springs wear out and will not hold the contact enough to allow the system to continue firing. I changed the switch out on my 1999 300M but would recommend you take it to a qualified mechanic to check it out first. It was more work than I wanted to do, and a little tricky to get everything right. It fixed the problem and I never had to mess with it again. You can get the new switch keyed to your old key so you don't have to replace the remote.
#26339 of 26385 Re: Fear not [coolrunning]
May 26, 2009 (4:00 am)
Hi, My car has 77,000 miles on it. Your the first person that said anything about the ignition switch.
May 28, 2009 (7:02 pm)
I have an '02 300M, bought used with 22k mi, just recently turned 131k mi. I can relate to many of the problems people had with this car. Latest issue was a loud, constant tapping noise from the engine but I think I finally got it resolved after pouring in a bottle of Rislone, runs much quieter now. Engine light is also constantly on with a code relating to an EGR leak of some kind. Passenger side door handle is broken and windows squeal when opening and closing. Car is very easy to work on though. Work I've performed myself so far are oil/filter changes, spark plugs, brake pad & rotor replacement, headlight/brake light bulb replacement, inner tie rod bushings, timing belt/waterpump and acc belts & pulleys. And after a nice wash and wax it's still one of the sharpest looking cars on the road.
#26341 of 26385 Re: Fear not [linspro]
Jun 01, 2009 (9:20 am)
It's amazing ignition switches last as long as they do when you consider how many times they get used. Just running a few errands on my day off, I counted 12 times in one day that I used the ignition switch. Imagine if you did that every day for about ten years! Like anything mechanical/electrical, it will eventually wear out. My replacement cost was under $50.00 (aftermarket), and it took about two hours to change it out on one of my cars. The OEM Chrysler part was on backorder, so I just bought one from NAPA Auto Parts that is probably as good if not better. One tip: pay close attention to how everything comes apart on the steering column. It fits like a puzzle, and can really confuse you if you try to reassemble the pieces out of reverse sequence... and it simply will not go back together if it is wrong. It was a little frustrating for a while, but it was sure satisfying to finally fix the problem myself. You cannot tell if your switch is worn out by wiggling the key. That just tests the integrity of the lock. The actual switch is electrical and the contacts are inside a metal case that you cannot access. It must be replaced if the contacts are burned or worn out and not making solid contact. It can be tested by a competent technician, but he also should be ale to pinpoint the exact problem in the first place. It may be something else altogether, but I was surprised to find in my case, that the ignition switch was failing.