Chrysler 300M

Replying to: cadence (Apr 30, 2009 5:09 am)

As a rule. I never take any of my cars to the dealership (no matter what make or model) unless it is under the factory warranty. I also do not purchase extended warranties because they typically never cover whatever breaks. Instead, I pocket the cash and set it aside for any routine maintenance required and eventually spend it on repairs as they are required. I take my cars to the same shop I have for years. All the mechanics are factory qualified and have worked in dealerships for a number of years. They have all the same troubleshooting equipment the dealers use and they only charge about 2/3 the price. I will not allow a check engine light to remain on for any length of time. It is a general alarm indication that should not be ignored. The cost of repairing a minor problem is far less than allowing it to cascade into several more serious ones later.

Replying to: whatsgood (Apr 27, 2009 3:37 am)

Hi my husband bought me a 2003 300m special last year for my birthday! I loved the car at first, drove great, plus fast and its beautiful; but then started hating it too cuz of its issues. My check engine lite started coming on also plus at 2500 rpm its would act like it had a bad cough. I've gotten a couple of code of P0340 and P0344 the past few days. My brother-in-law is a mechanic at Chrysler so he's going to take a look at it for me he thinks its the cam relay but is going to run tests. As soon as I get the results I'll come post them, hopefully it'll help someone else out.

Replies to this message:
• n2naskar88 (May 06, 2009 4:26 pm)
  • coolrunning (May 11, 2009 9:54 pm)
    • naatz1 (May 20, 2009 5:02 pm)

Replying to: n2naskar88 (May 05, 2009 3:44 pm)

Ok just got my 2003 300m special back. These were the issues I was having; Check engine light on, cranks & won't start at times, bogs down on accell at 2500rpms, dies while driving, dies at stops. I received 2 fault codes on my odometer; P0344 - cam shaft position sensor circuit. P0340 - cam shaft position sensor intermittent. He performed fuel pressure test 59PSI fuel pressure is good need to replace the Cam Sensor. I hope this information is of some help to some of you.

Replies to this message:
• coolrunning (May 11, 2009 9:54 pm)
  • naatz1 (May 20, 2009 5:02 pm)

Replying to: n2naskar88 (May 06, 2009 4:26 pm)

My 2004 300m Special had the same exact trouble at about 77,000 miles. The cam sensor was replaced and all problems were resolved. I didn't even know what a cam sensor was until then. It apparently is part of the system that replaced what we knew as the distributor. The cam sensor counts rpms and relays the count to a computer that tells the high energy ignition when and where to fire. When the cam sensor begins to go blind, nothing works right. The symptoms where all the same. The system goes into what they refer to as "the limp mode", allowing you to limp the car into a repair shop at low speed. I don't know if all cars made after 2000 no longer have distributors, but the electronics that replaced them are not nearly as durable or inexpensive. My cam sensor replacement job was $280.00. I could have replaced a distributor cap and rotor for under $15.00, or the entire distributor for under $80.00. Those were the days...

Replies to this message:
• naatz1 (May 20, 2009 5:02 pm)

Replying to: coolrunning (May 11, 2009 9:54 pm)

Replies to this message:
• joshyfromokc (Jun 20, 2009 1:25 pm)
• cobra2020 (Sep 30, 2009 6:47 pm)
  • wgranville (Sep 30, 2009 7:25 pm)

If it was the starter, it would happen all the time. If your car has over 100,000 miles on it, it is likely the ignition switch. The electrical contacts wear out and the switch only works when it can make good contact to fire off the ignition system. Sometimes, the springs wear out and will not hold the contact enough to allow the system to continue firing. I changed the switch out on my 1999 300M but would recommend you take it to a qualified mechanic to check it out first. It was more work than I wanted to do, and a little tricky to get everything right. It fixed the problem and I never had to mess with it again. You can get the new switch keyed to your old key so you don't have to replace the remote.

Replies to this message:
• linspro (May 26, 2009 4:00 am)
  • coolrunning (Jun 01, 2009 9:20 am)

Replying to: coolrunning (May 25, 2009 9:53 am)

Replies to this message:
• coolrunning (Jun 01, 2009 9:20 am)

Replies to this message:
• coolrunning (Jun 01, 2009 9:28 am)