- #26326 of 26363
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Re: Check Engine light [jboehm]
by whatsgood
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Apr 27, 2009 (3:37 am)
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Replying to: jboehm (Apr 18, 2009 12:16 pm)
2004 300M with 78000 milles I hate this car! I just bought this car 3/19/2009 and thats all i have had was problems with it. First the converter, the check engine light comes on and off when ever it wants to. now it barley change gears. it doesnt know if it wants to drive or stop im sick of this car. does anyone no how i can get rid of it. It looks good but its junk if you ask me. Can someone please tell me what might be wrong with it now. is my transmission going or what? once i was at a light and i put it in park, when the light turn green i put it in drive the car didnt move until it felt like it. Then it took off, then it started to drag when my RPM needle got up to 3 then it decided to come back to reality and drive like it suppose to. i was hoping and praying it would at least get me and my son home.
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- #26327 of 26363
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Re: Check Engine light [whatsgood]
by mrmusic4ads
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Apr 27, 2009 (5:43 am)
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Replying to: whatsgood (Apr 27, 2009 3:37 am)
Good luck. i own a 2002. dashboard doesn't like up anymore, had to replace the interior door handles. Transmission blew up at 114,000km - i had an "extended" warrenty to 115,000km of which they [chrysler] said, "it went into service 6 days before the year that was offered". I had to fight for weeks to get anything back on a $4500 replacement. It took weeks to get repaired. All I got was $1500.
Oh, my automatic lights go on and off randomly, even during the day, the car will be sitting in my drive with the lights just going on and off. What the tire pressure gauges too, i've had to replace 3 already.
I'm done with Chrysler, their lousy products and customer service. Apparently they don't want to stay in business. Just watch the news.
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- #26328 of 26363
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check engine light stays on
by tee13
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Apr 28, 2009 (5:48 am)
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I got a used 2003 Chrysler 300 m in November 2008 with 130,000 miles and no warranty a little over a month later the check engine light came on. I took it to the dealer and said it was the o2 sensor in bank 1 and a misfire in cylinder 4. I’ve gotten a tune up replaced plugs and the ignition coil in cylinder 4, replaced all of the o2 sensors and the cam sensor. The light is still on and the car keeps cutting off after start and running rough (shaking and losing power) then all of a sudden it will just take off with boost of power. I took it back to the dealer and they keep getting the same codes for. o2 sensor and random misfires. They said they couldn't find anything and based on what I've already done now they think it is the map sensor.
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- #26329 of 26363
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Re: check engine light stays on [tee13]
by coolrunning
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Apr 28, 2009 (6:26 am)
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Replying to: tee13 (Apr 28, 2009 5:48 am)
Considering the mileage, and the work you have already done to fix the problem, by process of elimnation, you are probably on the right track. MAP sensors can get contaminated with dirt and even insects if the air filter is not changed carefully and routinely. It is not too expensive to replace, and it may have a dramatic affect on your performance and mileage. Since you are already in the process of catching on maintenance and repairs that were likely overlooked or ignored by the previous owner, your investment will pay off when you finally get it all done. Having owned a 1999 and a 2003 Special, I can tell you these cars are beautiful, high performing and fun to drive. Still, as with ANY car, they are machines and require basic maintenance. The "problems" you are experiencing are the same problems you could expect from any car with high mileage. It is worth fixing, and it is not something you will have to do that often. I recommend using synthetic oil in the crankcase, and changing the transmission oil every 25,000 miles. You also may want to flush the radiator and refill it with the approved coolant Chrysler recommends so you make sure you have all the corrosion prevention possible in your cooling system. They have lots of aluminum parts, which is good for saving weight but vulnerable to corrosive untreated water. I also replace the cam belt every 50,000 miles just as a preventative measure. Bear in mind, you bought this car for a really great price. When it was new, it cost over $30,000...
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- #26330 of 26363
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Re: check engine light stays on [tee13]
by cadence
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Apr 30, 2009 (5:09 am)
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Replying to: tee13 (Apr 28, 2009 5:48 am)
i think the dealership network has done more harm to Chrysler than anything else. they are the most thoughtless, flip bunch i've ever dealt with. i have an old fashioned mechanic that i've used for years and if he cant figure out why something isnt working, no one can. he doesnt like chryslers but he works on them just the same and has saved me alot of useless trips to a dealer and alot of money. the engine light thing does seem to vex him as mine stays on too. have you tried some good old fuel injector cleaner in the tank for general engine performance? for $5 a can, you'd be surprised the things it can clear up. i'd also search out a good local repair guy, check his reputation, work with him on small things, see how he treats you, etc...see if he's a keeper. sometimes its really worth it
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- #26331 of 26363
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Re: check engine light stays on [cadence]
by coolrunning
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May 01, 2009 (7:04 am)
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Replying to: cadence (Apr 30, 2009 5:09 am)
As a rule. I never take any of my cars to the dealership (no matter what make or model) unless it is under the factory warranty. I also do not purchase extended warranties because they typically never cover whatever breaks. Instead, I pocket the cash and set it aside for any routine maintenance required and eventually spend it on repairs as they are required. I take my cars to the same shop I have for years. All the mechanics are factory qualified and have worked in dealerships for a number of years. They have all the same troubleshooting equipment the dealers use and they only charge about 2/3 the price. I will not allow a check engine light to remain on for any length of time. It is a general alarm indication that should not be ignored. The cost of repairing a minor problem is far less than allowing it to cascade into several more serious ones later.
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- #26332 of 26363
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Re: Check Engine light [whatsgood]
by n2naskar88
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May 05, 2009 (3:44 pm)
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Replying to: whatsgood (Apr 27, 2009 3:37 am)
Hi my husband bought me a 2003 300m special last year for my birthday! I loved the car at first, drove great, plus fast and its beautiful; but then started hating it too cuz of its issues. My check engine lite started coming on also plus at 2500 rpm its would act like it had a bad cough. I've gotten a couple of code of P0340 and P0344 the past few days. My brother-in-law is a mechanic at Chrysler so he's going to take a look at it for me he thinks its the cam relay but is going to run tests. As soon as I get the results I'll come post them, hopefully it'll help someone else out.
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- #26333 of 26363
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Re: Check Engine light [n2naskar88]
by n2naskar88
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May 06, 2009 (4:26 pm)
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Replying to: n2naskar88 (May 05, 2009 3:44 pm)
Ok just got my 2003 300m special back. These were the issues I was having; Check engine light on, cranks & won't start at times, bogs down on accell at 2500rpms, dies while driving, dies at stops. I received 2 fault codes on my odometer; P0344 - cam shaft position sensor circuit. P0340 - cam shaft position sensor intermittent. He performed fuel pressure test 59PSI fuel pressure is good need to replace the Cam Sensor. I hope this information is of some help to some of you.
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- #26334 of 26363
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Re: Check Engine light [n2naskar88]
by coolrunning
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May 11, 2009 (9:54 pm)
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Replying to: n2naskar88 (May 06, 2009 4:26 pm)
My 2004 300m Special had the same exact trouble at about 77,000 miles. The cam sensor was replaced and all problems were resolved. I didn't even know what a cam sensor was until then. It apparently is part of the system that replaced what we knew as the distributor. The cam sensor counts rpms and relays the count to a computer that tells the high energy ignition when and where to fire. When the cam sensor begins to go blind, nothing works right. The symptoms where all the same. The system goes into what they refer to as "the limp mode", allowing you to limp the car into a repair shop at low speed. I don't know if all cars made after 2000 no longer have distributors, but the electronics that replaced them are not nearly as durable or inexpensive. My cam sensor replacement job was $280.00. I could have replaced a distributor cap and rotor for under $15.00, or the entire distributor for under $80.00. Those were the days...
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- #26335 of 26363
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Long timer, saying 'Hello'
by alcatrazt2
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May 20, 2009 (2:10 pm)
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Hey folks,
Well, I decided to drop by and say hi. It's been a while. My warm hello's to bigmike5, tayl0rd, laurasdada and everyone else that has been on this forum since '05 when I joined.
I sold my '02 Chrysler 300M and got my mom into a 2008 Infiniti G35 Sedan w/ Premium & Sport. I got fed up with the service Chrysler was offering and am glad the local dealership is going out of business. It's been long overdue. Before purchasing the G35, they forgot to put oil in the transmission while performing valve body work under the extended warranty. After almost costing me my life (thank God my mother didn't pick it up from the dealership) and refusing to give a new transmission until I got a lawyer, I finally got rid of the car.
I'm not trying to rock the boat but I will never purchase an American car again in my life. I've been patriotic enough .
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