Last post on Nov 19, 2012 at 4:58 PM
You are in the Chrysler 300M
What is this discussion about?
Chrysler 300M, Sedan
#26101 of 26385 Re: Looking at Purchase 2003 300M [jea3391]
Mar 08, 2006 (9:39 am)
Mine is a '99 with 178k miles. Things I've fixed so far: Fuel pump, brake rotors (front), electric cooling fans (they burned!), re-glued the speaker cones ($3.00 bottle of glue vs. $$$ for new speakers). Things that need to be fixed: Vacuum leak somewhere "out there", opaque headlight lenses (really bad). No window motor problems. I have had the cabin lights turn on by themselves maybe 3 times, which is really un-nerving at night at 70mph.
No smoke, doesn't burn oil, idles smooth as glass. I should say that I've never had it in for heavy scheduled maintenance, like timing belts etc (that's right, 178k miles on the original timing belt)... I attribute my lack of problems to not having anyone dink around under the hood. And as long as it runs fine, nobody, especially Chrysler is going to touch my car.
#26102 of 26385 Re: Looking at Purchase 2003 300M [jea3391]
Mar 09, 2006 (10:30 am)
I have a 2003 300M which has been a very good car. I have 44000 miles on the clock and car has been essentially trouble free. Both my wife and I enjoy driving it since it is a great travel car, very comfortable at 70 mph, with nimble handling for a large car. Mileage >25 mpg on the highway. I don't use the autostick much since the car runs so smoothly. A few electronic glitches were fixed under warrantly.
Only 1 problem--air conditioner has a pin hole leak which the dealer cannot find so refrigerant had to be added after 2 years (also under warranty). You may want to carefully check this system. I think you will be happy with this car
#26103 of 26385 Re: Looking at Purchase 2003 300M [jea3391]
Mar 12, 2006 (2:03 pm)
You can see a few of my comments for the past 2 years on this forum, which I still check every week or two. My 2004 300M which I purchased new for my wife (its 2 year "birthday" is in a week, we got it right after St Paddys day as a closeout $4K rebate) is still totally defect free at 19,200 miles. OK, I thought I might have had a problem last Fall, but am now 100% sure it was a fuel cap not tightened thowing a code. You should be very happy with a 2003 and looking at all the posts by guys that bought them since 99 shows the vast majority have had good luck. My only complaints remain backing up, and while excellent tires the Michelins do not do well in over 3" of snow (and I am too cheap to replace them quite yet). Let us know if you buy it and how it runs after a couple months too.
BTW Killing time at a bookstore this weekend, reading the 4/06 Consumer Reports, most of the used 300M years are rated average reliability to slightly above (vs the new 300 V8 rated much worse than average ... stick with the 3.5L V6 which is all the old style 300M offered). Of course CR is notoriously hard on any North American engineer/built car, but that report and the Edmunds user ratings are pretty positive.
#26104 of 26385 300M Chrome rim center caps
Mar 14, 2006 (12:32 am)
Has anyone had any problems with the chrome center caps on the rims fall apart? I am on my second one falling apart and have seen a few 300 without them. Also where can i get cheap replacements? The dealerships want a mint.
#26105 of 26385 Transmission Gasket question
Mar 15, 2006 (5:51 am)
When I went to drop the transmission pan on my 2001 300m, instead of a cork gasket, I found some sort of rubber adhesive/sealant was used. I could not pry it off. Also 4 of the bolts were stripped. Can I assume it did not come from the factory this way or have they switched to this instead of cork?
#26106 of 26385 Re: Transmission Gasket question [handlogten]
Mar 15, 2006 (6:49 am)
Yeah, it's pretty safe to say that it didn't come from the factory with stripped bolts.
Mar 15, 2006 (11:44 am)
This was a problem for some of the earlier cars as I recall. I have not had the problem, knock on wood, with my 99M which is almost 8 years old now and I wash my wheels twice a week year round. I do remember a few guys reporting that the prongs inside got corroded and the cap fell off, and yes it was not cheap to replace them. When the problem wasw first brought up on the net I started spraying the prongs with WD-40 when I had the wheels off, figuring the oil would keep the water that infiltrates during rain or washing from having a chance to sit and corrode them. Perhaps a salvage yard or ebay/google is a way to go.
#26109 of 26385 Chrome Wheel Center Caps
Mar 19, 2006 (2:07 pm)
What exactly do you consider a "mint"? The day after you posted your message I noticed the chrome piece on one of my center caps fell off -- the prong is still in the wheel. I called the Chrysler dealership and they quoted me $23 for a replacement. They even had it in stock. I really don't think that's bad. I was expecting worse. (And the cheap plastic replacements sell for more than that on eBay).
#26110 of 26385 Re: Looking at Purchase 2003 300M [bmcdonald]
Mar 20, 2006 (5:51 pm)
I have a 1999 Chrysler 300m. Only about 23K miles, but I had the same problems with the speakers.
I just reglued the door speakers last night. $3.19 for the bottle of Goop. Dang Beastie Boys anyways.
I had a problem with the passenger door window switch, not making good contact. The guy at the dealer just played with the switch and it has worked ever since.
I had a problem with the fog-lights engaging/disengaging. It is sporadic. I just do what the guy did and jiggle the switch. It then goes away. That's probably what you need to do. Be hard, but not too hard.
I am thinking about how to fix the opaque headlights.
The opaqueness seems to be from inside. I'll either see if they sell the clear platic cover or just forgo it.
I have window rollup/down problem.
I know what the problem is, but I don't know exactly how to fix it. The rolling of the window uses a scissor action. That scissor action forces the gear to rub up against 2 plastic pieces, causing the motor to stop. My temporary solution was to use grease, so the gear slides against the plastic. I think the real solution would be to rebend the metal, or use something to keep the metal scissor straight and not allow it to push the gear.