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Chrysler 300M

26363 messages, Last post on Nov 03, 2009 at 2:51 AM
You are in the Chrysler 300M Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Otto: To late, the dealer put it on during PDI so the damage is done. Minnesota is a two plate state and they don't take kindly to it not being there. lonestarsled: Bought the kit from Stongard. I agree the price is steep, but getting a hood repainted is worse. The kit installed nicely but if you've never worked with this sort of stuff it would be best to practice first. The bumper is indeed the worst piece. It takes time and plenty of patience to work it. Because of the ground effects on the Special I ended up trimming the kit somewhat. But the end result turned out great. They also provide phone support so I called them in advance and got some installation tips and tricks that helped. Toms99: Those chrome parts are purely for advertising and show. If you want something like that you'd have to find a plating shop that could do it. Also there's a good chance the parts are non-functional because it is only a display piece. Think in terms of those cutaway engines you see at car shows. |
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| Yeah, you're probably right...But at least a cut-away pic you know is not real. The chrome diaphragm is possible. Heck, I had TONS of chrome on my 67 FireBird 400 engine! It's a slight case of deceptive advertising, IMHO. But not enough to warrant the expense of plating them myself!! | |
| Probably the only benefit of those chips (e.g. ASE) is that they remove the speed limiter. You'll also want to replace your tires with V-rated ones. I'm not sure how much you plan to run over 118, but it's not a cheap solution for a few runs up there. | |
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lonestarsled: Thanks for the front fascia removal tips! Took everything apart and found that the headlight welts were overlapping. I cut the excess and but jointed the welt, and gluded the ends down with goop. Oh, I also noticed that the 10mm nuts you access from within the wheel-well were loose from the get-go. Re-assembled and everything is fine! I don't think I would have attempted this without your pics! sdmike2: Thanks for hosting lonestar's pics! phases: Welcome back and thanks for defending our freedom! |
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well, I went out and started the process of painting the letters on my valve covers...and I almost got to the point of painting! I chased around the house for 15 minutes looking for a suitable brush, finding that the ones in a finger nail polish bottle were about perfect. Once I had one cleaned up I had to find a container for my paint mix (the G2 caliper paint has two parts...paint and an activator). Once I cut up a plastic cup for use, I cleaned my letters with alcohol to remove any grease and oil. I then put the 4 parts of paint in the cup, and was going for the 1 part activator when I realized I COULDN'T GET THE CAP OFF! I even tried channel lock pliers! Well, so much for the leftover caliper paint. I guess I'll try again some other day. |
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| No problem. I was wondering why those pictures were getting so many hits. lol! | |
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Here's a trick that works: Get a firm foam paint pad and find a paint, like acrylic art paint, that is quite thick. Apply it evenly to the pad and then press down lightly on the letters and lift straight up. It should leave a nice, even, clean coat of paint on the top of the letters. After the paint drys, spray them with a coat of flat clear coat like Krylon. |
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| I have a 2000 300M with 68000 miles on it. I recently have an irritating rattle coming from underneath the car, and also one from behind the dash. (not necessarily at the same time) The damn thing is I cant just take it to the dealer because its intermit ant. It only happens sometimes, usually around 40 miles and hour when the overdrive lockup comes in and engine is in a low rpm, heavy load situation. Has anyone else experienced this? Any ideas? | |
| try posting your question at the 300M Club message board. Try the complaints/problems area. There are some users that have more mechanical expertise than the average bear. http://pub88.ezboard.com/b300menthusiastsclub | |
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E-mailed you a picture of my valve covers with the Inferno red touch up paint. I found that the best way to do it is as follows. 1) Clean with a degreasing agent. 2) Paint the top of the letters white first to give the red a good base to go on to. 3) Wait a day before applying a second coat or take your M out for a good ride to cure the paint. 4) In between coats sand with a 400 grit paper to smooth it out. You also need a steady hand and it's a lot easier to see what you doing if you have full sunlight shining down on the covers when your applying it |
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