Last post on Apr 30, 2012 at 7:10 PM
You are in the Buick Rainier
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Chevrolet TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy, Buick Rainier, GMC Envoy XL, Isuzu Ascender, Oldsmobile Bravada, SUV
Jan 16, 2003 (11:35 am)
Your dealer is on something.....
Here is a copy of the TSB and it clearly states all three of the triplets...
Interference with Center Console Rear Auxiliary Power Outlet Cover and Rear Seat Cushion (Replace Rear Auxiliary Power Outlet Retainer and Cover) #02-08-49-009 - (10/04/2002)
Interference with Center Console Rear Auxiliary Power Outlet Cover and Rear Seat Cushion (Replace Rear Auxiliary Power Outlet Retainer and Cover)
2002 Chevrolet TrailBlazer
2002 GMC Envoy
2002 Oldsmobile Bravada
Built Prior to May, 2002
Some customers may comment on an indentation mark or, in extreme cases, a puncture of the rear left seat cover. When the left rear seat bottom is raised and the seat back is folded down flat, the seat bottom rests against the back of the center console. The auxiliary power outlet cover, located on the back of the center console, contacts the seat bottom. If enough weight or pressure is applied to the seat bottom in this position, the auxiliary power outlet cover may leave an indentation or possibly damage the seat cover.
The auxiliary power outlet cover has a raised finger tab. This raised tab on the cover may cause the condition.
#9697 of 18329 Re: Aux Power Outlet Cover
Jan 16, 2003 (12:39 pm)
Thanks for the info, Gator. Have any of you had this replaced? If so, how involved was it, and did it take very long. And more importantly, does the fix work? i.e., is there no longer any imprint on the rear seat when folded down?
#9698 of 18329 Adding Amp to Bose----Help
Jan 16, 2003 (12:54 pm)
I recently had an appointment for an amp install to the Bose for a sub box. When I get there they tell me the amp install can happen, BUT the sound wont be what I want. The way the Bose is designed, the crossovers inside the Bose amp wont generate enough bass to the add on amps crossover, or something along those lines. Basically he said it would work, but it would be more of a midrange sound then anything.
Has anyone added an amp to the Bose for a box? If so, how was it done to get the best performance out of it? I would like to change the whole system out and then use the subs, but that wont be for a while and I cant stand the idea of an amp and subs sitting there looking at me. Any help would be appreciated.
#9699 of 18329 gator36-Aux power outlet cover
Jan 16, 2003 (1:17 pm)
Thanks for the help. I have printed the text on the TSB out and will carry it with me to the dealer.
#9700 of 18329 Please tell me this isn't true
Jan 16, 2003 (1:45 pm)
I browsed the NHTSA database for '02 Bravada info after someone mentioned that they had opened an investigation on the "stalling at speed" problem. One owner report caught my attention in that it stated that a 'Service brakes now' message came on the display then the engine shut down (at 65 mph). "Service mgr indicated engine is designed to shutdown immediately when this fault appears" when he went in to have the right rear ABS sensor replaced. That's just a service guy not knowing what he's talking about, right! Could it be possible that the software is designed to shut the engine off at speed??? The report also claimed that he had another occurance where the message was 'Low oil pressure' and the engine shut off. In both cases he was able to restart after a short period of time.
The thing that makes me wonder is that the one time this happened to me, a coolant temperature sensor had apparently gone on the fritz, although I didn't see a particular message on the display, just lit up as you would expect with the key on and not running.
#9701 of 18329 Love my Envoy
Jan 16, 2003 (6:29 pm)
I purchased a 2002 Envoy SLT after the recommendation of many of you on this board. I very much love the vehicle (thanks for the recs everyone). I am, however, experiencing a few "little" things that I would like some advice on. Please advise. Any help is much appreciated
1. Issue with a buzzing noise in the center counsel which sounds like plastic rubbing together. When I hold in on the radio, the sound decreases but doesn't totally go away. Usually happens going over bumps.
2. Ticking noise that seems to be most prevalent when the air conditioner compressor kicks in...Could there be something loose/coming into contact with the compressor?
3. Rattling noise that sounds like its coming from under the center of the vehicle somewhat under the console like something hitting something else.
4. Does anyone have issues with the cargo cover making noise? The service guy said that 9 times out of 10 it's installed wrong yet still makes the noise after he installed it "correctly".
Thanks in advance for the help!!
#9702 of 18329 Adding Amp to Bose----Help
Jan 16, 2003 (7:48 pm)
The interanl cross overs should be before the amplification in the factory amp. This should not prevent your installer from using an external cross over to filter out the mid range frequencies. Even if the internal cross overs happened after the amplification circuit, your installer should be able to find a combination of choke and capicitor to prevent the mid's from getting to your sub amplifier. It may take some experimentation, which in turn could take time and result in less profit for the installer. It would be nice if we could get some specs on the factory amplifier's cross over points.
I put in some 3.5" coaxil speakers in my dash. The highs and mid's are now much better. The factory bass is ok, but not very tight.
#9703 of 18329 Stalling
Jan 16, 2003 (10:16 pm)
I got my Bravada back today, in post 9678, I mentioned recalls, I meant bulletins. Mine stopped when I placed it in reverse and had gone about 20'. Three times, about 6 months apart. Course if it doesn't happen with the service people it doesn't get fixed. Finally they got hold of some one and found two bulletins
02-08-64-017, moisture in door connection-ok
02-06-03-001, ignition wire chaffing , repair wire and cover area.
Now whether or not it is corrected on not, I don't know, they say it is. Will see what develops in regards to other people's problems mentioned previously. After stalling and waiting 20 minutes, it would start which doesn't sound like ignition wire to me.
#9704 of 18329 Re: Roof Rack Removal
Jan 16, 2003 (11:18 pm)
Answer to Greg #9695,
Check out my previous post -- #9127 -- for info on my roof rack removal. You remove the front caps on the roof rails to get to the forward screws. There are five screws per rail. After you remove the screws and rails, you will have round threaded steel inserts that are just under 1/2" wide and stick up approximately 1/16". These are the threaded inserts for the rail screws. They do not come out! I purchased some 1/2" long plastic plugs from the local hardware store to close out these threaded inserts. These plugs are the type that are commonly used to hold panels and carpet down in cars and trucks -- finishing plugs. You want plugs with a very low profile button head. Apply a small bead of clear Silicone RTV sealant under the head of the plugs and press them into the holes. That's it! You will have to buff out the scuff marks on the roof from where the rails were mounted. Not the best solution -- but a workable one.
(e-mail me for photos: edstamperbutter.toast.net )
#9705 of 18329 Re:Adding Amp to Bose----Help
Jan 17, 2003 (6:12 am)
Initially when I made the appointment, I was told the install time would be around 4-5 hours. Then when I get there on my date, Im told they can do it but it will sound like crap. Reading what you said, its probably they dont want to spend the time on the install and bypassing or whatever to the Bose amp. It was at a Tweeter the install was suppose to happen. For the $50 for install, not worth it to them if it does take 4 hours. My only option is to wait and change the entire system. Either that or go find another place that can or is willing to do the install.