Last post on Apr 30, 2012 at 7:10 PM
You are in the Buick Rainier
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Chevrolet TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy, Buick Rainier, GMC Envoy XL, Isuzu Ascender, Oldsmobile Bravada, SUV
#18230 of 18329 Re: Noisy / "Roar" in drivers side front wheel [handyandy3]
Jul 25, 2009 (8:51 pm)
Just wanted to update on my TB. With symptoms described above and the roar or rubbing in the drivers side wheel well. I changed the drivers side assembly and the noise was still present and I then re-checked the torque setting on the axle nut and it was OK--right at 103 ft-lbs. When I was having my aligment done after new tires were installed the mechanic there said even though the noise seemed like it was in the divers side front that it was most likely the passenger side hub assembly that was "bad". He said whatever way you turn the wheel to get the noise to stop, then that was the side that is bad. In this case when I turned the wheel to the right the noise stopped. I then just today installed the right side assembly the roar is gone.I guess I shouldn't have to worry about the drivers side assembly going bad for a while now either!! Also,I wanted to thank Burdawg and handyandy3 for their help/suggestions. Thanks again guys.
#18231 of 18329 Brake Controller Problem
Jul 27, 2009 (8:30 am)
Just bought a 2006 Rainier. I had a local RV dealer install my Tekonsha Voyager brake controller that was working fine on a previous truck two weeks ago.. The installer expressed concern; wondering if the brakes were going to work but he still let it leave out the door.
The electric brakes aren't working. The light on the controller is not on when hooked up to the camper. Camper turn signals, taillights, etc all work fine; just no brakes.
One person told me that it probably needed a fuse...but info here has said the fuse/battery connection is unrelated to the electric brakes.
Any ideas or thoughts?
#18232 of 18329 Re: Brake Controller Problem [msmith7113]
Jul 27, 2009 (12:19 pm)
I assume your talking about an electric brake controller. They are actually pretty simple in how they operate. They detect you applying the brakes in the tow vehicle, usually by connecting to the brake light switch, so when you apply the brakes the controller will start applying current to the electric brakes on the trailer. There's typically some adjustments to tailor the controller to the load you will be towing, like the speed at which the brakes are applied and the latency of how long it waits from when you apply the brakes to when it starts to supply braking power to the trailer. There's also usually a button that will apply full force to the trailer brakes all at once, for emergency use or to test the trailer brakes at low speed. Old timers like me remember the "manual" controllers that were just a lever coming out of the controller that you moved to apply the trailer brakes, moving it more meant more braking. If you forgot to release it once stopped you wouldn't be able to get moving again!
If it's not working then either it's not detecting the braking by the tow vehicle, not properly connected to the trailer's brakes, or isn't wired correctly, or has gone out. There quite typically is a fuse in the main line that supplies current to the trailer brakes, since it's usually wired directly to a 12V source. It could be an inline block type fuse (30Amp). The controller itself is probably fused also. The camper lights don't have anything to do with it, they are different circuits.
#18233 of 18329 Re: Brake Controller Problem [msmith7113]
Jul 27, 2009 (2:32 pm)
I have a 05 rainier that I use to haul a travel trailer with and I had a local kid install my controller and he had to pick up a 30amp J-fuse before everything would work---there is a slot for the fuse just read the inside of the battery cover---I hope this solves your problem
#18234 of 18329 Re: Brake Controller Problem [msmith7113]
Jul 27, 2009 (2:46 pm)
Turned out the 30 amp fuse under the hood was blown. Replaced the fuse and now everything is good. I should have checked this first; but I had misunderstood some previous postings on the subject....thinking a fuse was not involved with the electric brake circuit.
Thank you so much for the help,
#18235 of 18329 Re: Questions [pepito51]
Jul 29, 2009 (5:33 am)
I think your biggest thing should be looking into new tires, 79k is pretty high mileage for a set.
Other than that, my 2002 just hit 109k. Never had belts changed, after I asked the mechanic to look at them, he said not to bother, all the other stuff you mentioned i did for the first time at 100k, except for air filter.
been such a low maintanence vehicle.
the only issues were redoing the brakes around 70k, got screwed by midas on that.
had two rear shocks replaced at 100k for cheap.
of course my fan clutch is LOUD, but the mechanic said it would prob cost $400-$500 and even then he couldn't guarantee the new one wouldn't do teh same thing.
#18236 of 18329 Engine knock in 2002 chevy tb please help!!
Aug 03, 2009 (5:26 am)
My engine in knocking in my 2002 chevy trailblazer, I only hear the knock during acceleration in 1st and 2nd gear then at higher rates of speed it stops knocking?? Anyone have an idea as to what this could be??? Please help!! thanks
#18237 of 18329 Re: Engine knock in 2002 chevy tb please help!! [abucker]
Aug 03, 2009 (5:44 am)
Is there a specific range of RPM's that it continually knocks at? Try reving the engine in park and seeing where on the tach the knock occurs. Also, once it occurs, listen to see if it's get worse briefly after you let off on the accelerator.
#18238 of 18329 Re: Engine knock in 2002 chevy tb please help!! [burdawg]
Aug 03, 2009 (6:03 am)
It starts at around 1500 to 2000 rpm's and knocks continually. Yes it does get worse briefly when I let off the accelerator...thanks for the quick response.
#18239 of 18329 Re: Engine knock in 2002 chevy tb please help!! [abucker]
Aug 03, 2009 (12:47 pm)
It could be a loose rod bearing. The classic way to check for loose bearings is to remove the plug wires, one at a time, and rev the engine through the rpm's where the knocking occurs. When the cylinder with the loose bearing is dead, i.e. the plug is disconnected, the knocking will go away or be greatly diminished.
Before you do that though, is the knock a loud metal to metal sound, or is it more like a click? And is it worse when the engine is cold or when it's warmed up?