Last post on Apr 30, 2012 at 8:10 PM
You are in the Buick Rainier
What is this discussion about?
Chevrolet TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy, Buick Rainier, GMC Envoy XL, Isuzu Ascender, Oldsmobile Bravada, SUV
#14700 of 18329 Considering buying a Bravada
Jun 13, 2004 (9:42 pm)
I am considering purchasing a 2002 Bravada with 29000 miles on it. I am just concerned about the resale value on it once Oldsmobile is no longer in existance. I have looked at the Envoy and the Bravada and am having a hard time making the decision. The quality of the leather is better on the Envoy but the ride seems better in the Bravada. The particular ones that I am looking at seem to have the same features yet the Bravada is about $1500 less expensive. Just how much do you all think the value will drop in the next few years versus the Envoy?
#14701 of 18329 Re: Considering buying a Bravada [swhite #14700]
Jun 14, 2004 (10:42 am)
I wouldn't worry about it depreciating any more than any other triplett. You'll still be able to get it maintained at a GM dealership and parts will still be available. Besides that, I think it's probably the nicest looking of all of them.
Also, as you're buying this used, the original owner bore the brunt of the depreciation already.
#14702 of 18329 Re: Growl, etc. [cameokid #14664]
Jun 14, 2004 (11:14 am)
Hey cameokid...I'm going to try to persuade my dealer to try and rebalance my drive shaft, but I'm not sure I followed the logic regarding the torque converter. To me, if you feel the vibration and hear the humming, then press the brake pedal to disengage the TC, and the vibration and himming goes away, that suggests that the problem lies with the torgue converter. I experimented with that this weekend and got the same results you described...once the TC is disengaged, the vibration and humming goes away until the TC re-engages. Is my logic flawed? As previously mentioned, I have had the drive shaft re-balanced once (not sure if it was done correctly or not) and it definitely changed the degree of the vibration and the humming...not nearly as noticeable now, but I can still feel/hear it. I plan on talking with a GM Regional Maintenance Manager later on this month. Hopefully I can get them to check the TC or re-balance the drive shaft and solve the problem.
Jun 14, 2004 (11:32 am)
Yes, your logic is not quite right.
It's not likely to be a problem with the torque convertor.
When the torque convertor is disengaged, the fluid coupling will absorb some of the drivetrain vibrations and mask the problem. When it is engaged, the vibrations are more pronounced because the engine and drivetrain become hard-connected. So, the torque convertor is merely the messenger in your case.
Jun 14, 2004 (11:34 am)
Is there such a thing as "touch up" paint for the plastic bumpers that they have on the TB? Has anybody used it? Does it work?
#14705 of 18329 service engine light
Jun 14, 2004 (11:36 am)
My service engine light came on a few days ago. I took it to an Autozone, as they read codes for free.
As it turns out, it was simply the gas cap being too loose.
I don't understand why cars can't display error messages, like "check gas cap." Seems like that would be more useful than the dreaded "Ice possible" message.
#14706 of 18329 Re: Growl, etc. [bertman48 #14702]
Jun 14, 2004 (1:20 pm)
Not fully understanding the anatomy and physiology of torque converters, I'll try to respond (engineers, help me out here):
I think the the torque converter touches the drive shaft at all times, unless disengaged (i.e. when the brake is applied). Therefore, if the vibration was coming from the torque converter, the vibration would occur at all times, not just at 1500 rpm. I suspect the TC played a role in transferring the vibration to the gas pedal and the rest of the car (steering wheel, console, doors, rear-view mirror when it was really bad). It would follow then, that if the vibration were coming from the drive shaft only at 1500 rpm, when the TC was disengaged, the vibration in the car would stop, which in my case, it did. So, we went after the drive shaft as the culprit. I cannot stress enough to find a good drive shaft shop that takes pride in their work and doesn't mind you looking over their shoulder to be sure it's done right - to the specs I gave you - evidently GM has a different standard for 'acceptable' runout and balance. If you're anywhere near Washington DC I can give you the shop I went to. It has made all the difference in the world in my driving enjoyment.
Here's an informative site on torque converters in case you're interested:
#14707 of 18329 Re: Delayed shifting, warm tranny. [dlare #14698]
Jun 14, 2004 (1:42 pm)
I have experienced some delayed 1-2 and 2-3 shifting, but not while towing. For me it's more when I start up and drive right away without waiting for the car to sit for a couple minutes before I start driving. I have had it to the dealer once before for klunky shifting, they did a software update, but it still does it. Hasn't been too much of a problem, as long as it doesn't get worse. Once I get going it stops doing it.
P.S. - I towed a pop-up camper last weekend loaded down with bikes (prob 2500#) didn't have any shifting problems, but seemed to have a good bit of power loss going on the uphill over bridges after about 100 miles.
#14708 of 18329 Re: Growl, etc. [cameokid #14706]
Jun 14, 2004 (3:32 pm)
Thanks cameokid and others!!!
cameokid...can you provide me the name of the dealer and the service manager's name or work order number so that my dealer can contact someone up there to discuss the fix.
#14709 of 18329 v8ext on euro lights
Jun 14, 2004 (6:02 pm)
Same as 01_hoe as shown on post 14635. I'm not sure if there is any other styles available.