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Sedans Nissan Maxima Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair
4048 messages, Last post on Nov 23, 2009 at 4:23 PM
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Hello out there. Been chasing a starting problem for 2 years on my 95 Maxima with 185k miles and some rust: car cranks OK (not the starter, not the battery, not the teeth on the flywheel), kicks back and then continues to crank. Eventually will start but painful. Killed 3 starters along the way. Check engine light is on. CHanged the knock sensor, the crank angle sensors, the cam angle sensor. Nothing. I went to sell the car and someone told me the solution (which I cannot believe but 2 dealers confirmed - 2 others said never heard of this): problem is corrosion between (!?!?!) the transmission and the block, causing grounding problems and wants to try to make the engine turn backwards during starting. Ground straps apparently do not work (?!?!?!). Solution is $900 to remove the transmission (?!??!), clean, and reinstall. I cannot believe this - can anyone out there confirm or let me know of an easier way to fix this? THANK YOU |
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I have an '03 with 75,000 miles, never any trouble with it. I'm planning on keeping a couple of more years and was wondering about the serpentine belt. My last few "working" cars the belts lasted about 150K miles, or I sold them with the original still in place. But now that I don't work I don't put on the miles so I'm wondering what anyone thinks about replacing it. It's difficult to see it but what I can see looks OK, also in my experience these don't just "go" like the older accessory belts. Since I occassionally take 300-400 mile trips I'd hate to have to replace it on the side of the road. Any thoughts on this, or tell me how long yours have lasted. Also, when I had my oil changed last week (Wal-Mart, they now do an automatic battery "check") the little paper they handed me said the battery was "low". I put in an Interstate 75 month battery almost 3 years ago because I was going to be spending the rest of the winter in CO and felt it was a good preventive measure. Thanks for any input. fa |
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Isn't the factory recommended interval 50k miles? Did you check the grooved side for cracks and or missing pieces? I Don't mind replacing them on the side of the road unless its the weather is bad. Did you check the fluid level of the battery? Do you keep it filled? If the cells get dry the dry part is dead until it get reconditioned. |
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I have a 96 Maxima with about 175,000 miles on it. The problem i have is the will lock up when i brake too quickly. Like a stop light, or trying to avoid transmission an accident. Sometimes at a light it will drop back into gear, but if i'm at a stop sign, or middle of the road i have to give a little gas to engage. And when i say "locks up" my meaning is it acts like it is in neutral when i'm in drive. I have not done anything to it yet. Would like to know where to start looking for the problem.
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| Hi...I was thinking about buying a 2002 Maxima SE with 167,000 miles...Do maximas of this year typically run past the 200,000 mile mark? and are there any known problems to look for with this model year? | |
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Replying to: woodstock2 (Sep 28, 2009 7:38 am) |
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| This is an automatic. It shifts normally the rest of the gears. Th efaster I accelerate, the harder it shifts. Any Suggestions? | |
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Replying to: pegasus17 (Mar 11, 2009 5:10 am) Thanks in advance. easypar
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Replying to: easypar (Nov 11, 2009 6:44 am) On my 03 Max, it was the brake hardware (aka pad retaining clips) that was replaced. I also got new rotors (NAPA Ultra) so had that done at the same time. Noise is gone but it could have been a problem with any of those parts (pad, rotor, clip). Let me know what yours turns out to be...good luck |
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REF4045. It was kind of odd, I had three potential buyers look at my car and two of them made offers but both of them commented about the "thunking and clunking" from the front end. One specifically mentioneda major street nearby that has many of the "tar filled joint repairs". Oddly enough both of them made offers but one made his low enough to more than pay for struts because he was sure it was struts. I waited until after 10:00 PM and drove around, no radio or other distractions and even shut off the engine and coasted a bit. I'm a bit hard of hearing and the only thing that I noticed out of the ordinary (I've owned this unit since it was 4 months old) sounded more "sheet metal" than solid like a strut problem. Someone on here or another site had mentioned that the rubber bumpers for the hood had needed to be backed out (made taller) so I tried that, and even put a cabinet door "button" on each of them. The noise that I had heard went away. I told the buyer I would have it checked out though before I countered his offer. I went to a very reputable local brake steering and suspension (not a national chain, a local family with a long reputation in our (50,000 population) town. Told him everything and he drove it for 10-15 minutes and put it on the lift. He said he heard no noise, but then he had no experience with the former condition. He said the only thing on the struts was that one of the boots was a bit torn but he thought the mileage was a bit on the low side for that make and model. He also pointed out (as I had) that the stiffer suspension and lower profile tires on this would feel much different to someone more used to a more spongy sedan. Thanks for your help on this. I'll see if this guy really wants it |
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