Last post on Jun 05, 2013 at 11:18 AM
You are in the Nissan Maxima
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Nissan Maxima, Sedan
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#4034 of 4182 Re: 2000 maxima lose power when driving around 20mph [calixarene]
Sep 10, 2009 (5:11 pm)
Check Engine Light Code P0171
System Too Lean - Bank 1
How does a P0171 code trigger the check engine light? This code will trigge=
r the check engine light as follows:
The adaptive fuel strategy in the vehicle's computer constantly monitors th=
e fuel delivery system to make sure the engine is running at an optimum air=
to fuel ratio, which is 14.7:1. The computer adjusts injector pulse width =
to regulate the amount of fuel going into the engine. The oxygen sensors re=
lay information to the Powertrain Control Module (computer), informing it o=
f the oxygen content in the exhaust. This information is translated by the =
computer, and used to determine if more or less fuel is needed. The compute=
r will then adjust fuel flow (and possibly other related engine operating c=
haracteristics), to keep the correct air fuel mixture. This loop continues =
as long as the engine is running. Please refer to our article Oxygen Sensor=
Code Diagnosis for more info on this system. A P0171 check engine light co=
de is set when the computer has reached a rich calibration limit and can no=
t add enough fuel to maintain the correct mixture.=20
Refer to our Oxygen Sensor Code Diagnosis article for a list of all possibl=
e causes. The following is an overview of P0171 check engine light code pos=
Leaking or faulty fuel pressure regulator
Plugged or dirty fuel filter or lines
Fuel pump weak or defective check valve
Injectors leaking or faulty
Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel
Leaking EVAP system components
Faulty FRP (Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor)
Air Intake System
Contaminated, damaged or faulty Mass Air Flow sensor
PCV valve leak or stuck open
Air induction turbulance caused by wrong filter
Oil dipstick not seated
Air leaks after the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
Oil coated aftermarket air filter
Any exhaust leak before or near the oxygen sensors
Vacuum line disconnected from EGR System Module (ESM)
EGR valve, tube or gasket leak
EGR vacuum regulator valve leaking
Secondary Air Injection System
Mechanically stuck secondary air injection valve
A very thorough discussion of how to approach and repair a P0171 check engi=
ne light code can be found here. If you need further assistance let us know=
. Please be sure to stop back in and visit some of our other very useful si=
te features to lear more about your car's emissions system!
Suzanne V. Thompson
Sep 24, 2009 (3:32 pm)
hello, new to the forum. i have a 95 maxima with 120,000 miles. i was driving to work and all of a suddden my car just jumped to the right and my steering wheel was not straight anymore. it will track down the road straight when letting go of the wheel. turn the wheel left and right and the steering wheel be straight again. drive some more and it will jump to the right again.feels like power steering problem.
#4036 of 4182 Re: cranks but doesn't like to start [hillbilly1025]
Sep 25, 2009 (3:08 pm)
well - sounds like the crazy problem I have with my 95. Get a load of this. Recent news (been chasing this starting problem for 2 years, I can change the started in 45 minutes - done 3): the problem, according to 2 dealers who knew of it, is a corrosion problem apparently between the transmission and the block. Solution is to take off the transmission, clean the surfaces, apply new dielectric grease, and reinstall. Sounds so crazy that I could not believe it but 2 dealers confirmed. The other 2 I called never heard of it. I have ground strapping in my hand that I will try this weekend, but have low confidence it will work. Recommend you call around and see if anyone can confirm this... Hope this helps. I too replaced crank angle sensor, cam angle sensor, knock sensor... Starters eventually died and replaced too... Good luck and please let me know what happens.
#4037 of 4182 Maxima Starting Problem - transmission???
Sep 25, 2009 (3:13 pm)
Hello out there. Been chasing a starting problem for 2 years on my 95 Maxima with 185k miles and some rust: car cranks OK (not the starter, not the battery, not the teeth on the flywheel), kicks back and then continues to crank. Eventually will start but painful. Killed 3 starters along the way. Check engine light is on. CHanged the knock sensor, the crank angle sensors, the cam angle sensor. Nothing. I went to sell the car and someone told me the solution (which I cannot believe but 2 dealers confirmed - 2 others said never heard of this): problem is corrosion between (!?!?!) the transmission and the block, causing grounding problems and wants to try to make the engine turn backwards during starting. Ground straps apparently do not work (?!?!?!). Solution is $900 to remove the transmission (?!??!), clean, and reinstall. I cannot believe this - can anyone out there confirm or let me know of an easier way to fix this?
#4038 of 4182 maintenance intervals and battery
Sep 26, 2009 (10:55 am)
I have an '03 with 75,000 miles, never any trouble with it. I'm planning on keeping a couple of more years and was wondering about the serpentine belt. My last few "working" cars the belts lasted about 150K miles, or I sold them with the original still in place. But now that I don't work I don't put on the miles so I'm wondering what anyone thinks about replacing it.
It's difficult to see it but what I can see looks OK, also in my experience these don't just "go" like the older accessory belts. Since I occassionally take 300-400 mile trips I'd hate to have to replace it on the side of the road. Any thoughts on this, or tell me how long yours have lasted.
Also, when I had my oil changed last week (Wal-Mart, they now do an automatic battery "check") the little paper they handed me said the battery was "low". I put in an Interstate 75 month battery almost 3 years ago because I was going to be spending the rest of the winter in CO and felt it was a good preventive measure.
Thanks for any input.
Sep 26, 2009 (5:17 pm)
Isn't the factory recommended interval 50k miles? Did you check the grooved side for cracks and or missing pieces? I Don't mind replacing them on the side of the road unless its the weather is bad.
Did you check the fluid level of the battery? Do you keep it filled? If the cells get dry the dry part is dead until it get reconditioned.
#4040 of 4182 Cold Trasmission Locks up
Sep 28, 2009 (8:38 am)
I have a 96 Maxima with about 175,000 miles on it. The problem i have is the will lock up when i brake too quickly. Like a stop light, or trying to avoid transmission an accident. Sometimes at a light it will drop back into gear, but if i'm at a stop sign, or middle of the road i have to give a little gas to engage. And when i say "locks up" my meaning is it acts like it is in neutral when i'm in drive. I have not done anything to it yet. Would like to know where to start looking for the problem.
Oct 11, 2009 (7:42 pm)
Hi...I was thinking about buying a 2002 Maxima SE with 167,000 miles...Do maximas of this year typically run past the 200,000 mile mark? and are there any known problems to look for with this model year?
#4042 of 4182 Re: Cold Trasmission Locks up [woodstock2]
Oct 12, 2009 (10:23 am)
My car is a 2001 <Maxima and have a similar problem; I have about 97,000 miles on my car. It does it quite randomly - typically only when I've been driving it the highway at sah 70mph or so, and then exit highway and go into far lower speeds. I'll keep watching this list but if you find out anything, please do let me know. I'd hate to replace the transmission if that's not the problem.
#4043 of 4182 96 maxima shifts hard from 1st to 2nd
Oct 27, 2009 (2:25 pm)
This is an automatic. It shifts normally the rest of the gears. Th efaster I accelerate, the harder it shifts. Any Suggestions?