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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

4048 messages,  Last post on Nov 23, 2009 at 4:23 PM

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#4030 of 4048 Re: '04 Maxima Skipped Time - Pistons ran into valves [carrmat] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Aug 12, 2009 (7:15 am)
Replying to: carrmat (Aug 10, 2009 2:48 pm) I think a good independent shop can handle this job, no problem.   They probably know of sources for used engines. Here's one:   JDM   Your question about a code for this problem is interesting. Some cars did in fact have warning systems for engine timing disorders (Porsche 928) but with a timing chain, it's a pretty rare occurrence.   In hindsight, chains do give warnings usually before they break or jump time by making noise.   I'd take the car to an independent shop and first off, have them verify the huge drop in compression that would indicate bent valves.   Also, I'd remove the head and inspect the engine internally, if a drop in compression is verified. It may not be necessary to replace the entire engine. A piston can "kiss" a valve and bend it slightly without serious damage to itself sometimes--requiring only a rebuilt cylinder head.   Visiting Host
#4031 of 4048 96 MAXIMA PO605 CODE by dribby Aug 20, 2009 (10:44 am)
ECM HAS PO605 CODE,RUNS BADLY,BUCKS AND EVENTUALLY DIES.START BACK AND IDLES GREAT.TRIED USED PCM,RUNS WORSE.GOT ANY IDEAS.
#4032 of 4048 Smoking Under The Hood by suzyq513 Aug 22, 2009 (12:57 pm)
I have a 2000 GLE Nissan Maxima and in the far left back (passenger side) my car is smoking. I took it to the dealer because my engine light was on and the smoking under the hood and they fixed #6 coil (mis-firing) and tune-up. The burning smell is though my transmission has no fluid in it. I remember this because my step-father was a back yard mechanic and I remember the smell. The dealer has told me to bring it back on Monday, August 24th and a test will be run to see what it could be. Just last week I have paid over $800 for repairs and I am afraid they are just trying to rip me off. I am a female and don't have a clue about this. This is why I take my car to the dealer who is the expert. I need some advice on what to do? My hood is open now in my garage because when I drove it back home today it was smoking really bad. I am so afraid that I may be making matters worse by driving it. Can you provide some guidance?
#4033 of 4048 2000 maxima lose power when driving around 20mph by calixarene Sep 10, 2009 (1:12 pm)
I have a 2000 maxima with 146,000 mile on it. About one month ago, it suddenly got dead when I tried to turn right at low speed (~20mph). It can run ~15 minutes after I restarted it, but then got dead again. Service Engine light is on and the error code is P0171. Tried to fix it in two mechanics, but both of them can not figure out the problem. Do anyone have the same problem? Thanks for any advice/help. Replies to this message: suzyq513 (Sep 10, 2009 4:11 pm)
#4034 of 4048 Re: 2000 maxima lose power when driving around 20mph [calixarene] by suzyq513 Sep 10, 2009 (4:11 pm)
Replying to: calixarene (Sep 10, 2009 1:12 pm) Check Engine Light Code P0171   System Too Lean - Bank 1   Description:=20   How does a P0171 code trigger the check engine light? This code will trigge= r the check engine light as follows:   The adaptive fuel strategy in the vehicle's computer constantly monitors th= e fuel delivery system to make sure the engine is running at an optimum air= to fuel ratio, which is 14.7:1. The computer adjusts injector pulse width = to regulate the amount of fuel going into the engine. The oxygen sensors re= lay information to the Powertrain Control Module (computer), informing it o= f the oxygen content in the exhaust. This information is translated by the = computer, and used to determine if more or less fuel is needed. The compute= r will then adjust fuel flow (and possibly other related engine operating c= haracteristics), to keep the correct air fuel mixture. This loop continues = as long as the engine is running. Please refer to our article Oxygen Sensor= Code Diagnosis for more info on this system. A P0171 check engine light co= de is set when the computer has reached a rich calibration limit and can no= t add enough fuel to maintain the correct mixture.=20 Possible Causes:=20 Refer to our Oxygen Sensor Code Diagnosis article for a list of all possibl= e causes. The following is an overview of P0171 check engine light code pos= sible causes.   Fuel System:   Leaking or faulty fuel pressure regulator Plugged or dirty fuel filter or lines Fuel pump weak or defective check valve Injectors leaking or faulty Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel Leaking EVAP system components Faulty FRP (Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor)   Air Intake System   Vacuum leaks Contaminated, damaged or faulty Mass Air Flow sensor PCV valve leak or stuck open Air induction turbulance caused by wrong filter Oil dipstick not seated Air leaks after the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) Oil coated aftermarket air filter   Exhaust System   Any exhaust leak before or near the oxygen sensors   EGR System   Vacuum line disconnected from EGR System Module (ESM) EGR valve, tube or gasket leak EGR vacuum regulator valve leaking   Secondary Air Injection System   Mechanically stuck secondary air injection valve   Diagnostic Help:=20   A very thorough discussion of how to approach and repair a P0171 check engi= ne light code can be found here. If you need further assistance let us know= . Please be sure to stop back in and visit some of our other very useful si= te features to lear more about your car's emissions system! =A0 Reference:=A0 http://www.engine-light-help.com/P0171-check-engine-light.htm= l   Thanks, Suzanne V. Thompson
#4035 of 4048 steering by gbob12 Sep 24, 2009 (2:32 pm)
hello, new to the forum. i have a 95 maxima with 120,000 miles. i was driving to work and all of a suddden my car just jumped to the right and my steering wheel was not straight anymore. it will track down the road straight when letting go of the wheel. turn the wheel left and right and the steering wheel be straight again. drive some more and it will jump to the right again.feels like power steering problem.
#4036 of 4048 Re: cranks but doesn't like to start [hillbilly1025] by majnolo Sep 25, 2009 (2:08 pm)
Replying to: hillbilly1025 (Jul 28, 2009 7:36 pm) Hi there well - sounds like the crazy problem I have with my 95. Get a load of this. Recent news (been chasing this starting problem for 2 years, I can change the started in 45 minutes - done 3): the problem, according to 2 dealers who knew of it, is a corrosion problem apparently between the transmission and the block. Solution is to take off the transmission, clean the surfaces, apply new dielectric grease, and reinstall. Sounds so crazy that I could not believe it but 2 dealers confirmed. The other 2 I called never heard of it. I have ground strapping in my hand that I will try this weekend, but have low confidence it will work. Recommend you call around and see if anyone can confirm this... Hope this helps. I too replaced crank angle sensor, cam angle sensor, knock sensor... Starters eventually died and replaced too... Good luck and please let me know what happens.
#4037 of 4048 Maxima Starting Problem - transmission??? by majnolo Sep 25, 2009 (2:13 pm)
Hello out there. Been chasing a starting problem for 2 years on my 95 Maxima with 185k miles and some rust: car cranks OK (not the starter, not the battery, not the teeth on the flywheel), kicks back and then continues to crank. Eventually will start but painful. Killed 3 starters along the way. Check engine light is on. CHanged the knock sensor, the crank angle sensors, the cam angle sensor. Nothing. I went to sell the car and someone told me the solution (which I cannot believe but 2 dealers confirmed - 2 others said never heard of this): problem is corrosion between (!?!?!) the transmission and the block, causing grounding problems and wants to try to make the engine turn backwards during starting. Ground straps apparently do not work (?!?!?!). Solution is $900 to remove the transmission (?!??!), clean, and reinstall. I cannot believe this - can anyone out there confirm or let me know of an easier way to fix this? THANK YOU
#4038 of 4048 maintenance intervals and battery by easypar Sep 26, 2009 (9:55 am)
I have an '03 with 75,000 miles, never any trouble with it. I'm planning on keeping a couple of more years and was wondering about the serpentine belt. My last few "working" cars the belts lasted about 150K miles, or I sold them with the original still in place. But now that I don't work I don't put on the miles so I'm wondering what anyone thinks about replacing it.   It's difficult to see it but what I can see looks OK, also in my experience these don't just "go" like the older accessory belts. Since I occassionally take 300-400 mile trips I'd hate to have to replace it on the side of the road. Any thoughts on this, or tell me how long yours have lasted.   Also, when I had my oil changed last week (Wal-Mart, they now do an automatic battery "check") the little paper they handed me said the battery was "low". I put in an Interstate 75 month battery almost 3 years ago because I was going to be spending the rest of the winter in CO and felt it was a good preventive measure.   Thanks for any input.   fa
#4039 of 4048 50k by guu Sep 26, 2009 (4:17 pm)
Isn't the factory recommended interval 50k miles? Did you check the grooved side for cracks and or missing pieces? I Don't mind replacing them on the side of the road unless its the weather is bad.   Did you check the fluid level of the battery? Do you keep it filled? If the cells get dry the dry part is dead until it get reconditioned.

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