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Sedans Nissan Maxima Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair
4048 messages, Last post on Nov 23, 2009 at 4:23 PM
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I have a 99 maxima, its been a great vehicle for its 240k. after the 1st 100k i made the stalling go away with O2, plugs, coils, mass air flow being replaced, even at 190 when it returned i replaced O2 plugs, coil and mass air flow. but it isnt going away. for a day it will run fine then slowly start back. It boggs down when first taking off. Then as it warms up it becomes more pronounced. Soon even when running at higher speeds the RPMs drop. At this point it wont idle in park and can become very hard to start again. I never have replaced the Idle air control valve. Thats my next step. any other sugestions ? I dont wont to get rid of it. The engine and transmission and appearance are stll very good. But when after bringing it to Nissan and they could not ID it I am very discouraged.
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Replying to: 99max2 (Oct 08, 2008 12:02 pm)
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Replying to: obyone (Oct 08, 2008 2:31 pm) |
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Replying to: 99max2 (Oct 08, 2008 12:02 pm) |
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November 22 was the first full very cold day, in the Northeastern NJ area (suburb of NYC). I found that when I started my 2001 Maxima GLE, the steering seemed to be locked. I could turn the wheel, but it was as if the car was in neutral with the engine off. This is happening while the car is stopped in drive or when it is in park. When I depress the accelerator while in drive to move the car, the steering returns to almost normal function (still has a bit of sluggishness). After letting the car warm for a while the steering almost returns to normal, with the exception that when turning the wheel to the furthest extreme of the turning radius, I feel the wheel giving jerking resistance to the car being turned. I checked the power steering fluid level, and it is between the cold maximum and cold minimum levels. Is this the power steering pump? Could there be moisture in the power steering fluid, which has frozen?? Or could air in the power steering fluid lines cause this? What is casing this problem? |
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I have a 2.5 inch header and a 21/4 short pipe with glass pack on this car. I has a bad miss. It only does it on startup. It stops as you drive it. But at low rpm it does it. Driving down the road, in overdrive it does it. I thought that the short pipe would cause this, being that the o2 is not holding heat. I'm lost and would love some advice. Like I said it comes and goes.
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Replying to: vw2dracer (Dec 09, 2008 8:15 am) |
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I'm not running double gaskets, but the hearder connection is a O gasket. The only other ones is the head to header gasket. The manu. is pace setr. I didn't do the work. My best friend did, and it is WELL done. I put plugs and wires on it today. Runs SO much better. I had some info that was not told to me... 
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i have a 2000 maxima gle, 99k had the car since it was brand new. past 6 months it has been having problems starting. i recently burnt out my starter, once started runs great! so i just replaced starter and in past year replaced alll ignition coils, battery, alternator, plugs, tensioner, etc.. anyway the dealership told me it was becasue of corrosion in between the motor and tranny..lol yeh right, he said becasue i use to live in new jersey that the salt from the snow corroded it up. never heard of that ever! they want to charge 3,400$ to clean it out! im not dumb, whenever it try's to start you have to give it gas and more gas. if i turn the key on and off like 5 times and start it up it starts perfect! please help?
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I am looking into doing my first tune up in many years. My car is a 2001 Nissan Maxima. I am told that there are many different types of plugs for this car. They range in cost from $3.99/each to more than $11.99/each. They go by names that include; Iridium, Platinum and the like. I was told by a sales person that the fancy more costly ones have a hotter spark. My knowledge of how plugs and combustion work is; that the plug fires at the maximum fuel/air compression level to get the most power from the combustion. Does the heat of the spark make a difference? Isn't it true, that once the minimum flash point of the spark necessary is achieved for detonation to takes place, any heat (energy) over and above that flash point, necessary to cause detonation of the fuel/air mixture is superfluous? If my understanding is true, then spending more money on expensive plugs, is waistful. Please tell me what the real deal is. 
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