Last post on Sep 27, 2013 at 3:04 PM
You are in the Nissan Maxima
What is this discussion about?
Nissan Maxima, Sedan
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#3777 of 4184 Re: 1996 Maxima SE has rattle in front end [rbell90]
Nov 27, 2007 (9:33 am)
Based on my experience with my '97 Maxima SE 5 speed, it can be some of the 4 things below::
1. Ball joints are trashed. This would also make the car twitchy and unstable, and if not repaired on time, they start to rattle and eventually fall off, taking a wheel with them. A mechanic can check this in 5 minutes, once the car is lifted.
2. Sway bar links are worn out. This will result in a knocking sound on every bump. A mechanic can check this in 5 minutes, once the car is lifted.
3. Strut/Shock mounts. These, if broken, can allow the top of the shock/strut to have some horizontal movement - making a rattle on bumps. A mechanic can check this in 5 minutes, once the car is lifted by trying to move the top end of the strut, using a pry bar, from below the wheel.
4. One of the exhaust heat shields has rusted and got partially loose. This can introduce a general rattle while the car is shaking (going over a bump, starting). Again, a mechanic can check this in 5 minutes, once the car is lifted, by starting it and listening to the rattles.
Take it to a mechanic you trust and ask them to show you what they have found.
I had to change the ball joints and links a couple of years ago. Since your car is older, youíll probably need to change some of the above.
If you end up changing the mounts, it makes sense to change the struts and strut boots at the same time. If itís the ball joints, youíll have to go with the aftermarket, as Nissan only sells them as part of the control arm.
Here are the replacement prices based on $65/hour labor rate.
Ball joints - front (replace in pairs): $58 part + $90 labor per wheel.
Sway bar links- front (replace in pairs): $110/wheel for part and labor.
Strut mount - front (replace in pairs): $35 part + $60 labor per wheel. + need alignment.
Hope this helps.
#3778 of 4184 Re: 1996 Maxima SE has rattle in front end [zheka]
Nov 27, 2007 (9:56 am)
What are the symptoms when a ball joint is wearing out? My 97 GXE 5 speed has 201K on it now (I drive a lot) and the front end shakes on the freeway at speeds above ~ 75 mph. I also notice when I hit a bump at those speeds, there is some reverberation through the driveline for a moment. Accleration also produces vibrations through the steering wheel. I will probably replace it soon, but I'm wondering if my ball joints are worn out? I always said I'd drive it till the wheels fall off, but I really don't want to be in it if that happens
Nov 28, 2007 (12:40 am)
i had an aftermarket audio(JL audio) and alarm installed in my 1999 nissan maxima,my stock alarm is somehow stopping my car from starting, what do i do?
#3780 of 4184 Service Engine Soon light, @ 50K miles
Nov 29, 2007 (6:17 am)
My SES light came on yesterday, about 50K miles, gas tank was down to about 1/2 so I doubt if it's a loose fuel cap.
Still I pulled over and tightened it again. I'm going to drive it a couple of days as the manual says it "may" go off by itself.
On my Lexus I can turn this light off by holding in the "odometer reset" button and turning the key ON. I didn't see a procedure in the Maxima's manual though.
I guess my regular mechanic can hook an ODB II analyzer to it, or I can go by the Nissan dealership (50 miles away) next time I'm in the "big city".
I'm guessing that most things that turn this on are "emissions" related so covered by the 80K miles mandated warranty, correct?
Thanks in advance for any ideas/hints.
#3781 of 4184 97 max se whats going on
Dec 06, 2007 (6:40 am)
I have a 97 maxima se 5 speed i battery light has been coming on for like a month now but when you run the rpms above 3000 the light goes off. i hooked a voltmeter up to this to see if the alternator was kicking in but it wasn't. If i hit a back road and give it in 3rd gear get it going like 90 and push the clutch in it would work and finally kick in. Now that its cold out it never turns on there so my car dies. I don't know if i have a bad voltage regulator battery or what but i have tested all the voltages from the alternator to the battery and grounds good and the cables are good. i have also tightened the belt. if it was bad i wouldn't think that it would kick in everyonce in a while. if this keeps up im just going to put a new alternator in it and hope im not wasting money any help on what to do??
#3782 of 4184 Re: 97 max se whats going on [ttesch]
Dec 06, 2007 (7:06 am)
Not sure if this is related or not, but there was a recall issued for Maxima's, including 97's, for the althernator. Seems a diode was installed incorrectly and can short out later in life. I'd look into it if your not certain the recall work has been done yet. Here's the link: http://www.nissanhelp.com/Recalls/Maxima/1997.htm
#3783 of 4184 "04" Maxima-"TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS"
Dec 06, 2007 (9:57 am)
I own an "04" max. that I purchased in March "04" and I only have 35k miles on it.My co-worker also brought one in May "04" and she has 80k miles.Now she has the extended warranty to 100k but I don't.She noticed that the tranny was slipping and she taken it to Nissan dealership in Roswell,Ga. and after charging her $95 they said she needed to get her tranny flushed and she told them that Gwinnett Nissan had did it 3000 miles ago.They told she need to go back to them and did not tell her that she needed a new tranny. Nissan dealership in Duluth,Ga told her that the tranny need to be replaced & it will take about 4 wks for them to get it. Now she was also told she should have had done at 30k but it is suppose to be good for up to 100k.They told her the fluid was dark now because of the parts in her tranny brakering down.
Heres the kicker ; they told her that NISSAN is aware that the tranny has this problem with MAXIMAS but becasue it is not a safety issue they have not did a recall.Also they said that the mechanic that flushed it before should have done a half flush.The mechanic even said that he had to put a new tranny in his wife's "04"
max.I'm not sure how many mile she had. My co-worker has taken her care to the dealership for the regular maintenance schdule also.I AM GETTING RID OF MY BETWEEN 40K & 50K and only having half flushes. They also told her that they are told if they notice a small leak of any kind of fluid they are told to not mention it unless the customer specficly ask for it.
HAS ANYONE ELSE HAD THIS TYPE OF PROBLEMS.I will provide the dealerships names upon request.THIS IS IMPORTANT.
#3784 of 4184 Re: "04" Maxima-"TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS" [brorobert4x]
Dec 09, 2007 (6:01 am)
there is TSB for leaks in tranny and I do normal flushes every 30K.
#3785 of 4184 Ball joints, e.t.c.
Dec 12, 2007 (9:02 pm)
Ball joints are the pivot between the wheels and the suspension. They are rigid and prevent the wheel from folding sidewards.
To check the condition of a ball joint: Raise the car with the tires pointing straight ahead, grab the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Pull with the top hand and push with the bottom, then reverse. If tire moves at all, ball joint is on itís way out. Movements of 1/4 inch mean that the ball joint is completely busted. Usually, if the tire has movement, itíll be accompanied by a noticeable metal squeak.
There is another, more reliable, way to catch the ball joint failing before itís completely busted, but for this, youíd have to insert a pry bar between the axle(I think...) and the ball joint, and see if you can get later to move. Do not push against any rubber parts(boots) Ė youíll break them.
Nissan does not sell ball joints for this gen.(95-99) of Maxima's separately, but as a part of the control arm, which is more expensive.($160+ v.s. $60 for aftermarket ball joint) Unfortunately, most aftermarket ball joints have average lifespan of only about two years.
#3786 of 4184 Shocks/struts '97 Maxima SE
Dec 12, 2007 (9:44 pm)
A month ago I finally changed shocks on my '97 Maxima SE, w/ 5-speed at 106k miles. The old shocks did not fail, but with time got too soft - so the car was leaning too much in corners and was wobbly at speeds of 60+.
I first looked at the original equipment first, but decided to go with KYB AGX, since they were cheaper and have good reputation. These also have adjustable dumping, meaning you can adjust their firmness to your liking in 2 minutes. I changed the shocks, strut mounts, and boots at all four corners, and left the factory springs.
Now, 2000 miles after the change, I still find myself looking for excuses to take an extra ride, whenever I have time. I'm enjoying the car as if this was a new toy. I drive at 1/4 firmness setting, switching to 1/2 firmness for fun once in a while. My average gas mileage dropped from 27mpg to 23mpg, as I find myself having fun pushing the car harder.
I had the KYB front strut mount bearing squeaking at first, but my mechanic injected some lithium grease into it, and it was fine since then.
At 1/4 max firmness the ride feels like the stock replacement, with better handling, less leaning in corners and less wobbling at highway speeds. I guess the ride is equiv. to KYB GR-2, which are cheaper, but are not adjustable.
At 1/2 max firmness the ride is harder, but is still OK. I like this setting for drives on highway/back roads, but the road imperfections can get annoyingly noticeable during everyday commute. I have not tried firmer settings, as I feel they'd be way too hard for me.
Anyway, when the mechanic removed the old shocks, they found that while the fronts were the 10 year old factory installed shocks, the rears were ~3.5 year old Monroe Sensatrack, prev. owner must have changed the rears. As I mentioned before, I felt the both the front and the back gotten too soft - which means that Monroe's got worn in less than 4 years. Will see how KYB does on the reliability.
$310 KYB AGX shocks set
$140 Front(w/bearings) and rear KYB strut mounts, 4x boots.
$450 Labor to replace + 4 wheel alignment.