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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

4182 messages,  Last post on Jun 05, 2013 at 11:18 AM

You are in the Nissan Maxima Forum.

What is this discussion about? Nissan Maxima, Sedan

    
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Messages Page 290 of 419

#2884 of 4182 stolen airbag control module by klxtony

Sep 22, 2005 (8:58 pm)

My module was removed before I purchased my 2002 maxima gle. I am trying to locate a used one that will clear the light.I recently tried a 2003 module,but the light would not go out.My nissan mechanic scanned the computer and found no codes.His response was "must not be the correct module" although the parts guy says both cars( vin #s) take the same part #.All junk yards say all 2002-2003 MAXIMAS w/ ft.&side air bags take the same module. I bought this car wrecked and fixed it myself. The air bags were not deployed. PLEASE HELP!! ">

#2885 of 4182 Re: 2001 6000 K update [vanbo57] by straps

Sep 22, 2005 (9:13 pm)

Replying to: vanbo57 (Feb 16, 2002 1:25 pm)
Hi there, I am looking into purchasing a 2001 Maxima SE 5spd. with 39K and I am just curious as to how your is holding up and if you suggest this year maxima

#2886 of 4182 Spark Plugs by sgrd0q

Sep 23, 2005 (8:28 am)

I have a 2001 GLE that is approaching 105K miles. Very good car so far. I've had only two failures - an oxygen sensor that was replaced under warranty at 25K miles, and an alternator that was replaced recently just before 100K miles. All work and maintenance is being performed by the dealer.
 
Of course, I've had wear-and-tear items replaced over the years, such as tires (will purchase a third set soon), brakes, and also some belts were replaced due to cracking about a year ago. Actually, I had some warping issues with the brakes the first 50K miles. The brakes were machined a few times, and eventually at 50K miles all disks and pads were replaced by the dealer with the original parts. Since then – more than 50K miles - I haven't had any brake problems and the pads still show plenty of use left.
 
All scheduled maintenance was done at the dealer following the 'regular' schedule. This for the most part was regular oil changes (I use Mobil 1 only) and tire rotations, and every 30K miles they'd change the transmission fluid, the coolant, the air filter, the cabin air micro filter and possibly a few other things - this is from memory and I may be missing an item or two. Actually, they changed the brake fluid at some point.
 
So I am very happy with the car and it still drives like when it was new.
 
Now here's the question: At the 105K mile service the manual calls for spark plug replacement. I've been hearing people complaining about coil failures, and since these two are related would it make sense to replace those too? Kind of like the advice to replace the water pump when replacing the timing belt (for cars that use timing belts). The reasoning being that the two items are related and the labor is about the same whether you do one or both items. Or I can leave the coils alone, but then again I'd probably have to replace them at some point anyway. Or do you think they may last another 100K miles and 5 years? Or shall I not replace the coils and not even replace the spark plugs as the car is still running very smooth?
 
Any advice will be appreciated!

#2887 of 4182 Re: 03 Maxima uneven rear brake pad wear [luky92104] by 1alivia

Sep 26, 2005 (11:02 am)

Replying to: luky92104 (Mar 18, 2004 12:03 am)
I stumbled across your problem which seems to be the same problem I am experiencing. I have an '03 Maxima GLE. At approx. 15k miles, I took my car in for a routine tire roation (not at the dealership) and they described the same right side brake/caliper problem. They said the pad was completely worn. Of course they asked if I had been driving around with the emergency brake up......
I took the car to the dealer and they confirmed the problem. I received little willingness to have them replaced under warranty by the dealership. After a day of calling everyone I could get a Nissan the dealer agreed to replace the rear caliper and pads. They offered not explanation as to how this happened and did not list the repair as a warranty issue. They noted "customer satisfaction" as the reason for the repair. Now here I am at 46k miles and just replaced the rear pads again. There is obviously a problem but no one seems to know the answer......

#2888 of 4182 Badly in need of help by peewee2

Sep 26, 2005 (6:47 pm)

My 97 Maxima is dying. It started about 3 years ago when I was stationed in Italy. I started losing power and my check engine light would flash everytime I accelerated or went up a hill. I took it to a number of mechanics in the area and they could not fix the problem. I then moved to Guam where they told me to replace my engine. I did and my car ran but would not restart unless it was cool. It ran smooth with a little hesitation when accelerating and the check engine light remained on. The mechanics told me that was fine. I then moved back to the US where they are now telling me my ECM is bad. They ran 7 diagnostics on it and came up with 7 different problems. I ran the ECM diagnostics and got code 55 which means no fault(Chiltons). Do I need to replace my ECM or is there a bigger problem that everyone is missing.

#2889 of 4182 Re: Spark Plugs [sgrd0q] by clanker

Sep 27, 2005 (8:04 am)

Replying to: sgrd0q (Sep 23, 2005 8:28 am)
My advice - replace spark plugs with the Nissan OEM platinum plugs from NGK (you can get these from the dealer) and buy a set of coils else where ( the dealer will want 2X the cost of what you can buy them for online). It's up to you whether you pay for the parts now (I just did this, it cost approx $80 for the plugs, $400 for coils, 1 hour labor) because we had 2 bad coils at 130K miles ('95 Maxima GLE). Even though you have a 2001, the engine is pretty similar to mine. If you can bare to part with the extra $400, it is worth it, because when the coils go bad, it starts in a subtle way, then just gets worse and worse, with performance slowly slipping away. With the new plugs and coils, my Max runs like it did when we first got it. I would recomend to do both items, you'll be good for 60K for the plugs, and perhaps 100K - 150K with the coils !

#2890 of 4182 DTC codes by cvwillia

Sep 27, 2005 (9:00 am)

I have a 96 maxima with about 187K on it. While driving home my check engine light came on. The local auto parts store read the code and it came back with DTC PO325 Knock Sensor 1 and P0725 Engine Speed Sensor.. I had the check light reset and the light came back on after driving about 15 miles. The car runs fine without any problems.. Any help??

#2891 of 4182 Re: DTC codes [cvwillia] by clanker

Sep 27, 2005 (9:17 am)

Replying to: cvwillia (Sep 27, 2005 9:00 am)
The bad knock sensor does not activate the CEL, so perhaps it's the speed sensor? knock sensors are a weak point on our cars, I need to get mine changed on my '95, and am trying to find someone to do it with the least amount of labor possible. you can find a new sensor for $99 on ebay, or pay $160 at the dealer.

#2892 of 4182 2002 Nissan Maxima SE Problem/Check Engine Light by claudiawood

Sep 28, 2005 (7:47 am)

I've had my car for about 2 years now and a few months ago I noticed the "Check Engine Light Soon" notification appeared on my car. I read the owner's manual and was advised to first try and make sure the gas cap was on tight. After making sure it was tight, after a couple of trips, the light will come on but will repeatedly come on and I will have to tighten the gas cap...but recently, I noticed that I changed the gas I was using in my car to the premium and the light came off for a few weeks but just a couple of days later the light came back on. I'm using the same premium gas. What do you think it could be at this point? Should I replace my gas cap? Almost 80,000 miles. No tune-up in a while...can someone PLEASE help me?

#2893 of 4182 00 Maxima Transmission Problem by testeed

Sep 29, 2005 (10:10 am)

My 2000 Maxima with 110k miles and automatic transmission has recently, on three separate occasions, slipped out of gear while traveling down the highway. The only common link seems to be that the problem occurred each time after about an hour of sustained high-speed (70-75mph) interstate travel. Upon exiting the interstate and driving at a slower speed, the transmission would shift into neutral, even though the selector was still in drive. Tried down-shifting through all gears and switching off the overdrive, but nothing helped. The only way I could resolve the problem was to coast to a stop, switch off the car for a minute or two, then restart. The transmission would then shift into drive and continue with no further problem. I had the transmission flushed and refilled after the first occurrance, but the issue has recurred twice since. Luckily, I have been in a position to coast safely to a stop, out of harm's way. I may not be so lucky next time. Any ideas?

Messages Page 290 of 419

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