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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

4048 messages, Last post on Nov 23, 2009 at 4:23 PM
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| The spark plug boots and the coils come together as one unit. Even if the coil itself is perfectly functional, the spark plug boot will definitely deteriorate because of high heat in the deep plug wells over the years in DOHC engines, and replacing the coils every 100K is a good preventive measure in any case. For example, Mazda recommends replacing spark plug wires for their DOHC engines (which use a single coil for ignition) every 60K miles. This is due to deterioration of spark plug boots which act as insulators. | |
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Hello all, I just purchased a 2002 max SE (auto) with 29k miles. This is the first maxima I owned, so I am getting used to it. I wanted to know what the rpm's should be at when driving at 40, 60 and 80 mph. I think my rpm's are running to high at these speeds. My rpm's are running at 2k, 3k and 4k rpm's respectively. Do other 02 SE owners run at the same rpm's??? Thanks, Sparty5 |
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Your RPM numbers are too high for Nissan Maxima, either auto or manual. For comparison, 5 speed 98 Maxima SE will do about 3200 RPM at 80 MPH in fifth gear. On the other hand, my 99 Mazda 626 ES V6 5 speed RPM are exactly as you described - 3K RPM at 60 MPH, and 4k RPM at 80 MPH in top gear. These high RPMs are normal for the 2.5 liter DOHC Mazda engine coupled to 5 speed manual transmission. If your car is an automatic 4 speed vesion, it appears that you are running in 3 rd gear when your RPMs are 4K at 80 MPH. Make sure that your transmission overdrive gear is operational. (Or the speedometer is reading way too low). |
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| I know that my friend's car is not a 00-03 Max, but he does have a 99 SE auto, and his RPM's at 80 is around 2700. There is definately something wrong with your car/transmission somewhere. | |
| Thanks for the feedback. I will have to take it to the dealership and have them check it out. I don't think it ever gets beyond 3rd gear, which is obviously bad for the engine, but also bad for fuel efficieny. | |
| I know this sounds a little silly, but a friend couldn't understand why he and his wife were getting such lousy mileage in their O2 and our identical auto was getting much better. He finally figured out he wasn't kicking the auto-trans selector to "D" - just down to "3". The position of drive - just a right click over from "3" - isn't perfectly intuitive. Just a thought. | |
| I have a 2000 Max SE Automatic. Loaded with leather, Bose, roof, etc. Often times, not all the time, when I put the car in gear, or come to a stop so the rpms drop down to idle, I feel a slight buzz/vibration in the steering wheel and the gauge cluster light, the headlights, dome light all flicker really fast. You can see on the wall of my garage at night a shimmy/flicker in the light from the headlights that matches the flicker in the gauge cluster. As for the steering wheel, it's the same buzz that you feel when you first put it in gear and it buzzes and then smooths out, well mine doesn't smooth out until I hit the gas and accelerate. When I'm at cruising speed the lights are fine, buzz is gone, all is ok. Could this be a voltage or alternator problem? If so, how do I test for this? Does Autozone test batteries and alternators for free? Could it be something else like spark plugs? I have 59,400 miles on the car. 600 left on powertrain warranty. Any ideas is appreciated as I want to keep this car for 100K+ miles but this has really been bugging me lately and I'm eyeing up other rides with 4x4 or AWD since I live in cold snowy MN Twin Cities. Thanks. | |
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I'd take to Autozone and get it tested for Batt/Alt. Sounds like the alt is charging a LOT and at idle, its causing your lights to flicker. Also could be a bad battery / ground connection. I doubt its serious, but hey if a new car makes you happy.... |
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| Yep, will try Autozone this week. Doesn't seem like battery since it starts great even when we had several days of 0 to 10 degrees temps. Pops right off every time. Will check connections tonight to make extra sure they're tight and corrosion free. Hopefully it is something easy like that. I'd like to keep the Max rolling along relatively trouble free for 3 more years and put my better half in a Murano next year. Gotta pump those Nissan sales since I'm a stock owner! | |
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| My car runs pretty rough from initial start until the car reaches a resting temp(approx. 2min of driving.) When I am not revving my car and letting it coast at a speed of 20-30mph, the car starts bucking, sputtering, whatever, like I am pressing and releasing the clutch too quick. This problem does not seem like a coil problem, but I don't know too much about cars. When my car reaches a normal temp(1/2 way between "c" and "h" the car runs like a champ. Any suggestions??? | |
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