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BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

4451 messages, Last post on Dec 07, 2009 at 9:32 AM
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Just drove my '01 325I 4k miles from NorCal to Texas and back, got hit with alot of things, including rocks, and never made even a mark on the glass. I avoided being behind big trucks, etc., that are notorious for throwing rocks, etc, and didnt have a problem one. Dont understand how dealer says its the way you drive, think glass especially windshields has to be by law a certain thickness with a plastic layer inbetween (the "safety" feature so it wont shatter in a million pieces). Dont know of anyone else having similar problems, probably just being at the wrong place at the wrong time.. Hope this goes away for you.. Ive treated all my glass for years with a product called Rain-X which fills in all the microscopic pores in glass with a film that makes the surface very slick so alot of things that heretofore would smack the glass hard, may bounce off instead. Maybe this will help somewhat. It doesnt build up or make the glass less clear, does wonders on raindrops, at speed they just shear off and you dont have to use wipers as much..Available everywhere, I saw it at a Raleys/Bel-Air Supermarket. Good luck! DanF
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| I just bought a 2001 330xi, and so far, no problem with the windshield. But a friend bought a BMW SUV, and within a month had to have the windshield replaced because of a huge crack. She swears she does not recall being hit by a rock or anything else, just minor road grit. She has not been doing any mountain driving, just city and suburban driving in the NYC metro area. | |
| Fragile windshields may be indicative of more serious problems... Recurring or "sudden" cracks may be a sign of structural problems with the car. A friend of mine had an Acura that kept "breaking" windshields until it was determined that the uniframe was misaligned and causing undue stress at certain points along the glass. This is bad news... get it checked out! | |
I'm looking at the 325xi specifically because of the AWD option (it's already been a bad Chicago winter). Does anyone have any opinions regarding the AWD option as I believe it's relatively new to BMW. I noted 1 post with concerns about other problems relating to AWD. Is it's power deferential (something like 33%-front, 67%-rear) normal for AWD vehicles. Thanks for any help.
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| BMW has been selling AWD drive cars since the 1988 325iX. That said, the new system differs from the original in several ways. The 33/67 power differential was selected by BMW in order to retain the "feel" and handling characteristics of a RWD vehicle. I prefer this as I absolutely detest FWD in all but the smallest econobox. Long term reliability should not be a problem. There are scores of 88-91 iX owners in BMW CCA who swear by them. I would not be concerned. | |
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If you want to go in snow, get a 4 Wheel drive with decent ground clearance. I'm sure the AWD gives better handling. But do you really need to do turns at 75 mph. The gasoline penalty has got to be horrendous and this energy shortage is here to stay. At least with 4WD you can go out of it. I have always owned a 4WD vehicle since 1978 and if you think you get bettter than 10-15 miles per gallon when you are in 4WD, even with a 4 cyl you are mistaken. I know you'll do better in AWD but not a hole lot. There are to many pieces-parts rotating. Just another unbiased opinion. Later |
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| City/Highway mileage for the 325xi AWD sedan is 19/27 for the manual and 18/25 for the slushbox. The 325i 2WD numbers are 20/29 and 19/27; about a 1.5mpg penalty overall. FWIW, my wife's ASC equipped 2WD 3er has no trouble with snow up to about 10". And as nice as my Pathfinder SE drives, I'll take the 3er in a minute if I have a choice. And yes I HAVE to "do" corners at 75 mph. | |
| Appreciate the input | |
| I have a 1999 328i automatic model, and it had the similar "clunking" noise coming from the back. The first time I brought the car into the BMW dealer/service, one of the advisers said that it is a BMW-known problem and there is no fix yet for it. Overtime I got very irritated with the noise and thought that the adviser's explaination was not appropriate, so I brought the car back and had the supervisor test drive it. He then ordered for me a so-called "transmission kit", and later on had the problem fixed for me. In the paperwork it was written that the "output (transmission - I think) flange" was worn out and it had to be replaced. You should bring your car into the shop and tell them about the problem, and if necessary, my message. Good luck! | |
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| I talked to a couple of BMW dealers about the "rear clunk" I am having. The service manager of the dealer where I bought my car did not have any clue about what is going on. The service manager at a second BMW dealer was familiar with the auto transmission output flange problems but he did not know anything about the manual transmission rear clunk. He also said that the output flange repair kit is applicable only to auto transmission cars. | |
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