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BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

5349 messages,  Last post on Apr 30, 2013 at 3:31 PM

You are in the BMW 3-Series Forum.

What is this discussion about? BMW 3 Series, Sedan

    
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Messages Page 420 of 536

#4186 of 5349 Re: Where to get quotes for extended warranty and maintenance plan [jscholder] by shipo

Feb 27, 2009 (10:24 am)

Replying to: jscholder (Feb 27, 2009 7:38 am)
"O.K., normally you would be correct...however I recently found an oil change special from advance auto with 5 quarts of synthetic oil at 24.99 and an oil filter included, and they let me change out a filter that would fit the BMW. It was a great deal."
 
I'm thinking you missed the point (a couple of points actually):
 
1) As far a I know, every BMW sold in the United States since the dawn of the E46 has required at the very least 6.5 quarts of oil (my 1999 328i and my 2002 530i both took 7 quarts to bring the level up to the upper hash mark on the dip stick).
 
2) I'm finding it extremely difficult to believe that Advance Auto is selling oil that meets the required BMW LongLife-01 oil specification for less than $5.00 per quart. FWIW, just because an oil is "synthetic" in no way means that it is acceptable to use in a late model BMW (or Audi, or VW, or Mercedes-Benz... you get the idea).
 
The fact of the matter is, that now, here in 2009, it will be the rare situation indeed where someone can buy the proper oil and filter for a late model BMW for much under $60.00.
 
Best regards,
Shipo

#4187 of 5349 Mobil 1 or Mobil 1 High Mileage? by kenneth813

Feb 28, 2009 (11:02 am)

My car 1995 318TI is over 120,000 miles, should I use Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-40, Mobil 1 Extended Performance or just Mobil 1 0W-40?

#4188 of 5349 Re: Mobil 1 or Mobil 1 High Mileage? [kenneth813] by roadburner

Feb 28, 2009 (11:18 am)

Replying to: kenneth813 (Feb 28, 2009 11:02 am)
I'd run either 0W-40 or 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Truck. Either one will work fine. If you live in a warmer climate 15W-50 is a good choice- especially if your car sees the track on a frequent basis. I have 115K on my one-owner 1995 318ti and I used 15W-50 until the 0W-40 became available.

#4189 of 5349 Oil filter by kenneth813

Mar 01, 2009 (9:49 am)

Can I use any brand name oil filter for my BMW? I search the internet and found a lot of the filter with different brand name which fit in my car. I always buy the filter from the dealer, I am wondering if it is safe to use it. Or if anyone has any suggestion. Thanks.

#4190 of 5349 Re: Oil filter [kenneth813] by Mr_Shiftright HOST

Mar 01, 2009 (10:46 am)

Replying to: kenneth813 (Mar 01, 2009 9:49 am)
I prefer German filters for German cars myself. You never know exactly what you're getting at a chain store. I like the dealer for filters and gaskets, because you know they are going to fit properly.

#4191 of 5349 Re: Oil filter [kenneth813] by roadburner

Mar 01, 2009 (3:57 pm)

Replying to: kenneth813 (Mar 01, 2009 9:49 am)
I checked out the STP filter for the engine in my wife's X3; it cost $10.50 and was made in Malaysia. My BMW dealer sells the German OEM filter for $8.50. Just for the record, BMWs don't tolerate cutting corners with dodgy aftermarket parts.

#4192 of 5349 325xi stickshift (non-sports package) - Brake Pads and Rotor Repair Job by grantchstr

Mar 03, 2009 (6:07 am)

At 42,000 miles my dealer changed only the front pads ( 2mm) but not the rear pads ( 4mm). No new rotors which they reckoned were 20.6mm fore and aft.
BMW also replaced the Brake Pad Wear Sensor - which to me indicates that the wear was below minimum and the sensor should have warned of a brake job?
 
Now on other cars I have always been told that pads and rotors have to be changed in tandem or you dont get a perfect fit - ie scoring on the rotors will screw up the new pads.
 
Whats the minimun thickness for rotors? And if the fronts were changed at 2mmm surely 4mm for the rears is so close that they should have also been done at the same time? Whats the new thickness on pads?

#4193 of 5349 Re: 325xi stickshift (non-sports package) - Brake Pads and Rotor Repair Job [grantchstr] by shipo

Mar 03, 2009 (6:36 am)

Replying to: grantchstr (Mar 03, 2009 6:07 am)
A couple of points:
 
1) While I don't know the exact thickness of the friction material for new pads, my bet is that they're roughly 12mm.
 
2) The brake pad wear sensor will correctly indicate a brake job is needed if (and only if) the pads on that wheel (only 1 wheel per axle gets a sensor) is straight and true. As one or more sets of pads on both of my BMWs have worn in such a way as to cause the caliper to tilt and the brake pads to wear at an angle (as viewed from top to bottom), it is very possible to have either the inner or the outer edge of the metal brake pad backing plate come into contact with the rotor well before the wear sensor indicates the brakes are needing to be done.
 
3) Technically speaking, if a rotor isn't down to minimum specs (the minimum thickness is physically stamped on the rotor itself), it doesn't need to be changed. I change my rotors at every brake job, many folks don't; personal choice.
 
Best regards,
Shipo

#4194 of 5349 Go to #4150 by jscholder

Mar 03, 2009 (9:18 am)

As a poor person,I always love to communicate with the rich folks that seem to think that $50.00 is no big deal when saving money on repairs. I guess when you're making $100.00 or more an hour, and so smart that you can change out entire engines, why bother, huh? And while you're at it, why not everyone know how silly it is to worry about such a trivial thing.
 
What's truly amazing is how excited everyone got about the subject of an oil change, but couldn't dig into the wealth of their knowledge to answer a simple question that might truly be of worth to someone. You're attitudes are no better than of those who have forgotten what the true worth of a dollar is anymore--let's just talk millions and billions. Your disregard for the new guy on the block is no different than the elitists shunning the average "joe" out there. So, to shipo and Mr. Shiftright and the others in your click group; why not get back to trying to help someone in between your impressive comments and opinions of how much this or that costs?

#4195 of 5349 Re: Go to #4150 [jscholder] by Mr_Shiftright HOST

Mar 03, 2009 (9:24 am)

Replying to: jscholder (Mar 03, 2009 9:18 am)
If having the oil changed in a shop doesn't apply to you, well fine---we aren't saying you should have the same values and habits we do.
 
For me personally, the $50 extra I spend once every 5,000 to have a trusted mechanic go over the car with me on a lift is well worth it. And he recycles for me.
 
No muss, no fuss.
 
I'm sorry but I'm having a hard time equating a desperate poverty level with BMWs. Something doesn't compute with that. This IS the BMW topic, right?
 
Really now, if you can't spend $50 on a BMW, the car is doomed, don't you think?
 
I LOVE to stretch a buck. But not in that particular way. For you, this might be your method of doing so. And we'd be glad to help you with that. Me, I go to Costco and save $50 that way on food. So much easier than laying on my back in a cold driveway.
 
   
 

Messages Page 420 of 536

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