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BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

4446 messages,  Last post on Nov 29, 2009 at 12:04 PM

You are in the BMW 3-Series Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens

What is this discussion about? BMW 3 Series, Sedan


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#3769 of 4446
Re: Adaptive HID Lamp swivel fail [manualguy] by manualguy
Feb 25, 2008 (11:49 am)
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Replying to: manualguy (Feb 15, 2008 1:12 pm)

I got the adaptive headlamps fixed last Friday. The service person said that this was unusual but understandable. The driver side headlamp apparently has to make more small motions than the passenger side .
 
I dont understand why that is the case. But, anyway, they installed a new headlamp unit and it is working fine now. I am trying to figure out if it better to use the automatic setting on the headlamp or not! I asked the service mgr the same question, and he said that leaving it in auto mode is better and this should not happen again.
 
br
manualguy
#3770 of 4446
Re: Adaptive HID Lamp swivel fail [manualguy] by kyfdx HOST
Feb 25, 2008 (7:49 pm)
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Replying to: manualguy (Feb 25, 2008 11:49 am)

The driver's side lamp won't swivel as far to the left as the right side lamp, to avoid shining into the eyes of oncoming traffic on curves...
 
If you don't leave it in automatic, then it won't swivel.. they are fixed forward..
#3771 of 4446
Re: Adaptive HID Lamp swivel fail [kyfdx] by shipo
Feb 25, 2008 (8:27 pm)
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Replying to: kyfdx (Feb 25, 2008 7:49 pm)

"If you don't leave it in automatic, then it won't swivel.. they are fixed forward."
 
Well now, ain't that annoying. As I understand it, Xenon headlight assemblies have a lifespan that is calculated more by on/off cycles than hours of operation. With that in mind, I always kept my Xenons off of the "Automatic" setting as they had a tendency to turn on and off all too often (i.e. shady street, tunnel, overpass...). Hmmm, I suppose that means that I could simply switch them to "A" when I want them on.
 
Best Regards,
Shipo
#3772 of 4446
Re: Adaptive HID Lamp swivel fail [shipo] by kyfdx HOST
Feb 26, 2008 (4:23 am)
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Replying to: shipo (Feb 25, 2008 8:27 pm)

Of course, when you switch them to "A", you are turning them off and back on...
 
I never use the auto setting... I don't seem to achieve any real-world advantages from the swiveling... and since our DRLs are activated, I don't have any need for the automatic part, either..
 
When I need the lights, I turn them on.... When I stop, I turn them off.. just like the last 33 years...
 
(my wife loves the auto setting... go figure)
#3773 of 4446
Warranty Set to Expire: What to Look For? by canman1971
Feb 26, 2008 (3:05 pm)
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My car is going in tomorrow for a checkup because my warranty is about to expire. I'm at 47500 right now. Is there anything I should ask them to look into. I know they are going to do a whole "used" car inspection. (Brakes, suspension, fluids, etc...) But, I was wondering if there is anything special I should ask. They already told me they are doing a oil change. Thanks in advance.
#3774 of 4446
Re: Warranty Set to Expire: What to Look For? [canman1971] by kyfdx HOST
Feb 26, 2008 (12:04 pm)
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Replying to: canman1971 (Feb 26, 2008 3:05 pm)

As Mr.Shiftright advised me, one time..
 
"My front end seems to have a shimmy, and when I go over a bump, I hear a clunk."
 
That will get them to check the front control arms and bushings...
#3775 of 4446
Noise in front end by bobcat2k
Feb 26, 2008 (5:15 pm)
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I just got a 98 318i and noticed that when first starting out in the morning a noise, sort of a rumble, comes from around the right front. I actually sounds like something is rubbing the tire. As you go along the sound becomes less noticeable and eventually becomes only a hum. This hum is present only when you tweek the steering to the left while driving. If you slightly turn to the right it goes away completely. The hum continues even when the transmission is out of gear. The car tracks very straight and steady. Was thinking maybe RF wheel bearing, but what do I know? I am puzzled. Can anyone offer some help?
Thanks for your time.
#3776 of 4446
Re: Warranty Set to Expire: What to Look For? [kyfdx] by kominsky
Feb 27, 2008 (3:14 am)
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Replying to: kyfdx (Feb 26, 2008 12:04 pm)

Heed kyfdx's advice! Control arms are an expensive repair at the dealership. They replace the tie-rod and control arm as an assembly. I had one start "acting up" at around 49,500 miles and had to drive my wife's van for about a week to be sure I kept the milage under 50K so it would be covered.
#3777 of 4446
Re: Warranty Set to Expire: What to Look For? [kominsky] by canman1971
Feb 27, 2008 (9:44 am)
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Replying to: kominsky (Feb 27, 2008 3:14 am)

I just got word that they did the front and rear brakes, but nothing else required attention. Perhaps at around 49000 I'll go in and tell them the "shimmy" story. I had those replaced on my 2000 323i, so yeah, I know they are expensive.
#3778 of 4446
Need advice, problem after service by rhmass
Feb 27, 2008 (12:35 pm)
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I posted earlier a few days ago that I took my 2002 325xi wagon in last Thursday for routine service (covered by my extended maintenance contract). I was told that both my rear shocks leaking and needed replacement and the cv boots leaking as well (not covered). When the service advisor told me that they only had one shock in stock and proposed to put one in and ordered the other, I started questioning his honesty and didn't authorize the repair. I brought up the fact shocks should be replaced by pair. He gave me some weak excuse such as to save me time for the next visit. The routine service performed included oil/filter change and front brake pad/rotor replacement (included). I didn't use the car until yesterday and felt the brake didn't seem to stop the car as quickly. I thought that might be due to the need for the new front brakes to "break in". Otherwise the car ran well. Then this morning when I started the car, the lights came on: brake, ABS, EML, service engine soon, and the symbol for stability control malfunction. I called the dealer and talked to the same advisor who previously had wanted to replace one shock at a time to tell him the issue. I thought there might be problem stemming from replacing the brake or flushing the brake fluid. He insisted there wouldn't be any connection between those those indicators which are controlled by computer modules and had nothing to do with the mechanical works of the brakes.
I am bring the car in tomorrow and frankly with my recent experience, I had no confidence in this new dealership (they just bought out the old one). Particularly I have concern with its honesty. Can anyone of you come up with some hypotheses of this problem? The car is only at 45000 miles and have been always serviced by the dealership before. I have only driven 45 miles since the services performed. TIA.

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